Fig. 5 11. Peak Shevchenko (4161 m) via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 5). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (group of 4-12 people), approach the talus, possibly snow-covered slopes descending west from the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From here, ascend via:

• snow-covered talus,
• a snowy slope,
• simple, sometimes steep, heavily damaged rocks with small walls of the Western counterfort of the North Ridge,
• a snowy slope (possible rockfall, insurance) — to the North Ridge of Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 3-4 hours. Here, turn right and along the heavily damaged, long, simple snow-covered rocky North Ridge (insurance), then along the snowy ridge and a 150-meter ice-snow ascent, climb to the North Tower. From the North Tower, a 45-50 m ascent on simple blocky rocks leads to Peak Shevchenko. From the base camp — 6-8 hours.

V. Adai — Hoh via Eastern Wall, cat. 4A

• R0–R3 120 m 35° 2+
• R3 40 m 40° 3
• R4 60 m 50° 4
• R5–R7 140 m 50° 3+
• R7 70 m 55° 4+
• R8–R10 120 m 45° 3+
• R10 180 m 35°–40° 3+

130. Eastern Bokos via the South slope (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the village of Dzinaga or from the tourist center of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau near the western saddle of Shovi - Karaugom pass is described in route 83. From the bivouac, across the snowy plateau of the Western branch (closed crevasses) and slope, exit to the left side of the South ridge (cornice) of the Eastern Bokos peak. Without reaching the ridge, along the snowy slope on the left side of the South ridge, gradually increasing in steepness, move left into the second snowy couloir. Then:

• Along the steep snowy slope of the narrowing couloir, 350-400 m left - upwards (avalanche risk) to its end.

Fig. 22 92. Vo­lo­ga­ta (4396 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 22). The path from the CSP of the Tsey district or from the settlement of Dzi­nag (group of 4–20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bi­vu­ach­naya Peak is described in route 83. From the bivouac, cross the Eastern branch of the plateau (closed crevasses) and approach the right side of the wide snowy slope of the saddle connecting Vo­lo­ga­ta with the Ka­ra­u­g­om massif. From the plateau, having passed along the snowy bridge of the bergschrund, on the right side of the gently sloping

DUPLICATE NORTH PEAK B

VIA EAST RIDGE R15: 20 m 40° 3 RIDGE R14–R15: 80 m 80° 5 WALL R13–R14: 80 m 60° 4 RIDGE R12–R13: 150 m 70° 1 RIDGE, ICE R11–R12: 100 m 70° 4 RIDGE R10–R11: 60 m 30° 3 RIDGE R9–R10: 50 m 80° 5 WALL

173. Zaromag (4203 m) from the south (the route is combined, category 2B). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-20 people) to the Skazsky pass is described in route 166. On the pass, turn left and follow the simple, then moderately difficult rocks of the saddle ridge, alternating with snowy sections, to the left side of the Skazsky pass - "False pass". It is possible to descend from the pass directly along the couloir, but it is prone to rockfall. Here, turn right. Descend along a wide scree, and lower down, snowy couloir to a small South-Skazsky glacier in the Zaromag gorge. From here:

• to the right - down
• to the "Green" areas on the grassy hill of the left-bank moraine not far from the Zaromag glacier, under the southern slopes of Aday peak.

VTSPS Shoulder West Ridge 200 m snow slope 2 Hanging Glacier Drop 150–200 m 45°–50° 3–4 Big Wall 70 m 4 Slab-wall 40 m 4 Ridge 3–4

Ascent Route Description to the summit of Lagau, 4064 m

From the West

Approximately 2B cat. diff. From the lower Zaramag camps, the path lies in the direction of the glacier descending from Mt. Zaramaga. Cross two streams and then follow the trail towards the left (in the direction of travel) green moraine. In the middle, traverse the talus to the right green moraine. Up along it, under the reddish rocks. Leaving the rocks on the left, ascend to the upper camps. The journey from the lower to the upper camps takes about 2 hours. From the upper camps, head up and to the right, towards the black moraine talus, approximately 15 minutes. The order of movement from the upper camps:

• Turn right and ascend this talus for about 5 minutes.
• Then head towards the depression in the next black talus descending from the slopes of Mt. Adai (on the left in the direction of travel).
• Enter a wide snow-ice cirque. From the upper camps — 30–40 minutes.

35. Nikolaeva — Mamisontraverse

(Combined route, category 4A) From the hut, descend to the glacier. Approach the second ular. Ascend to the left side of the rocky cape under peak Nikolaeva. Bypass the rock wall on the left. Reach the balcony of the ice axe site. Then, from the right side of the balcony, traverse left along simple rocks with a slight descent in the middle part, then left, descending to a wide shelf. Traverse 100 m to the left along the shelf and reach a large site. From the site, ascend left and upwards along simple rocks to the summit of peak Nikolaeva. From the summit of peak Nikolaeva, descend 100–150 m along simple rocks to the side, then traverse down to the saddle of the ridge between peak A and Mamisontraverse. Continue along the simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, to the distinct ridge of Mamisontraverse. From Mamisontraverse: — along the 50-meter East (snowy) ridge, then approach the snowy ridge. — Approach the I-st Big gendarme and bypass it with a descent on the right. — Then ascend the steep gendarme. From the gendarme: — Descend to the snowy isthmus and along the gendarmes to the East shoulder of Mamisontraverse.

80. Aylama via the Northeast ridge-slope (ice and snow route, G. Wullea, cat. 4A, fig. 5, 17). From the Aylama camps (camp 44) cross (closed crevasses) the Western branch of the Aylama glacier and, along the snowy slopes on the right side of the Western branch, move towards the Eastern walls of the Aylama summit. Here, turn right and, following the center, bypass numerous crevasses of the heavily crevassed Northwest short steep branch, which flows into the Western branch of the Aylama glacier, and approach the left side of the upper part of the Northeast ridge of the summit (closed crevasses). Then:

• 500–600 m upwards, keeping to the right side of the steep heavily crevassed ice and snow Eastern slope;
• ascend to the Northeast ridge at the point where it turns into the ice and snow slope of the summit dome. From here, ascend 300–350 m up and to the right along the steep ice and snow slope, bypassing ice cliffs and drops (avalanches, ice falls). Below are the ice falls of the North wall! Then turn left and, along the gradually flattening 400–500-meter snow slope (avalanches), reach the summit of Aylama. From the initial bivouac, 6–10 hours. M. Chertkov's group ascended to the Northeast ridge from the Dykhsu glacier. Fig. 17.