ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m

I.

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak — West Sullukol (4100 m) via the West Ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness of the pre-summit tower 55–60°, length of 5th category difficulty section — 15 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 15 pieces.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours, from the start of the route to the summit — 5 hours (group — 6 people).
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: Overnight stays below the summit on the ridge, a site for one tent, water is absent. On a slab near the second control tour. Water is absent, snow.
9. Head of the ascent — Khatskevich I.G. — Master of Sports of the USSR, participants: Nikulin M.G. — Master of Sports of the USSR, Kazanovitch V.A. — 1st sports category, Tretyakov V. — 1st sports category, Zaporozhchenko Z.V. — 1st sports category, Gaevoy V.A. — 2nd sports category.

Climbing Passport

Appendix I

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area: spurs of the main Caucasian ridge from Chiperazau pass to Kitlod pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Termen-bashi — 4050 m via the northern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3–4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m average steepness — 50° length of sections:

II ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technically challenging
2. Climbing area according to KTMGV: Caucasus. From Chiperezau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Treugolnik 3928 m, left buttress of the northern slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m; average steepness — 40°; section lengths:

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Central Caucasus, Tютю Су gorge
3. Mt. Тютю Glavnaya via North Ridge, 4460 m
4. Category 6B (approximate), route by I. Slesov, third ascent
5. Height difference — 1310 m, length — 1675 m. Average steepness of the upper wall section — 77°. Average steepness of the lower section — 65°. Length of sections with category 5 difficulty — 670 m. Length of sections with category 6 difficulty — 540 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Type | Quantity | | :--------- | :--------- |

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit Vostochnaya Ullu-tau-chana via the northern bastions of the shoulder Category 5B difficulty

2. History of the massif exploration.

The exploration of the Ullu-tau-chana massif began in 1933, when A. Dzaparidze and G. Niguriiani ascended to the Main peak from the Lekzyr glacier off the Mestia pass via a Category 3B route, and to the Western peak from the Garvash pass via a Category 2B route. Before the war, both complete traverses of the massif were made, Category 4B:

• 1937 — L. Nadezhdin and V. Nazarov — from west to east,
• 1938 — A. Zolotarev, F. Kropf, V. Mauer, and V. Nesterov — from east to west; and in 1946 — a first ascent via the "board" to the Western peak with a subsequent traverse of the massif to the east, Category 5A — D. Gudkov, M. Zvezdkin, M. Chertkov, G. Odnoblyudov.

New route "Ex­prom­ptus" on Tyu­tyu 2nd West­ern 4420 m via South-East wall — South ridge

First ascenders:

1. Foy­gel	Max­im	Rafailovich	— CMS,	Leipzig	(Ger­many)
+49	178	18		18	303
m.foygel@gmail.com

2. Be­lo­zer­skaya Yulia Niko­laev­na — 2nd sports cat­e­gory, Leipzig (Ger­many)

As­cent pass­port:

1. Cen­tral Cau­ca­sus, Adyr-su gorge (Ullutau), sec­tion 2.4.1 of the clas­si­fi­ca­tion of routes to moun­tain sum­mits
2. Tyu­tyu 2nd West­ern 4420 m, via South-East wall — South ridge, route "Ex­prom­ptus"

Central Council of Physical Culture and Sports

Report

on the ascent to v. Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by S wall of S buttress — first ascent, 5A cat. difficulty, approximately, made on August 2–3, 1979 on the Central Caucasus, in the Adyr-su gorge by a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp in the following composition:

• SERGEY ANATOLYEVICH RYZHIKOV — Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor
• ANDREY EVGENYEVICH PETROV — 1st sports category. On August 2–3, 1979, a group of climbers from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp consisting of: Sergey Anatolyevich RYZHIKOV, Master of Sports of the USSR, senior instructor, and Andrey Evgenyevich PETROV, 1st sports category, made a first ascent of the route to the summit of Tyutyu-bashi 2nd West by the South wall of the southern buttress, approximately 5A category of difficulty. The southern buttress is located somewhat east of the southern edge, along which a 3B category route is laid to the same summit, and is separated from the edge by snowy slopes and a wide couloir. The buttress is separated from the walls of the 3rd Western Tyutyu-bashi — Central, by a huge couloir. The short snow-rock ridge of the buttress to the south ends in a wide almost vertical wall, cut almost in the middle by a weakly inclined crack from bottom to top, where it ends to the left (west) of a characteristic rock tower protrusion. The key section of our route follows mainly along this crack. Approach to the route. From the "Dzhailyk" alpine camp, follow the trail along the right bank of the Kulumkol-su river to the last large clearing under the terminal moraines of the glaciers of the gorge — "lower paradise camping".

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class: technical 2. Ascent region: Central Caucasus, Adyr-su gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Tyutyu-bashi, 2nd Western, 4850, via the 10th wall of the 10th counterfort. 4. Proposed category: 5A 5. Route characteristics: height difference 700 m, length of sections with 5–6 category: 160 m, average steepness 60^{\circ}. 6. Number of pitons: rock pitons — 33, chocks — 9, loops with carabiner — 3, including for creating artificial anchors — 6; total 39. 7. Number of climbing hours: from "Jailyk" tourist camp to the route — 4–5, from the foot to the summit — 13. 8. Number of overnight stays: one, lying down. 9. Group composition:

PASSPORT

1. Class — technical;
2. Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range;
3. Peak Shurovskogo 4295 m, via the Western wall through "Surok";
4. Cat. diff. — 5B;
5. Height difference — 959 m. Route length — 1804 m. Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 375 m; Average steepness 64°, steepness of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. 72°.
6. Pitons driven | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolts | | :---------: | :----: | :----: |