Fig. 37 183. Ronketti East — Main (combined route, category 3B, Fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4-8 people) to East Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83 and 179. From East Ronketti, descend (using rappel and athletic method) along the steep 180-200-meter West Ridge, bypassing the Sharp Gendarme on the left, with an exit to the sandy areas of the col between East and Main peaks of the Ronketti massif. From the col, move straight up along the crumbling, simple and moderately difficult rocks of the 150-meter East Ridge to the pre-summit wall of the East Tower of the Main peak. Along the moderately difficult rocks of the 35-40-meter wall (the most challenging part of the route - piton belay), then along the simple, gentle East Ridge, ascend to the East Tower of the Main peak. From the East Tower:

• first, along the simple rocky ridge,
• then along the snowy ridge, descend to a narrow snowy isthmus (cornices).

¹

1. False summit
2. Main summit
3. "Black gendarme"
4. Shelf
5. II ridge connector
6. I ridge connector
7. Overhanging rock in couloir

IV SW ridge III Route Sections: R1, R2, R3, R4, R5, R6, R7, R8, R9, R10, R11, R12, R13, R14, R15, R16, R17, R18, R19, R20, R21, R22, R23, R24, R25, R26, R27, R28, R29 Section Descriptions:

• 50 m 50° 3
• 20 m 60° 3
• 30 m 50° 3
• 40 m 50° 3

SONGUTI UP THE LEFT BUTTRESS OF THE CENTRAL EDGE IV Zhand. SOUTH TOWER BLACK ZHANDARM MAL. ZHAND. R1, R2, R3+, R4, R5+, R6–R23, R25–R28

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

II. Ascent Log

1. ASCENT CLASS — TECHNICAL
2. ASCENT REGION — 2.7
3. PEAK — MALAYA SONGUTI, 3800 m, VIA NORTHERN BUTTRESS OF NORTH FACE
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS: ELEVATION GAIN — 450 m. AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 40°. SECTION LENGTHS I — 150 m, II — 300 m, III — 200 m, IV — 105 m.

Tur­khokh

Tur­khokh peak (4110 m) is lo­cated in the north­east part of the Tsey range, be­tween Pik Poyasova (over the Ula g pass) to the west and (over the Rodina pass) the Tsey peak to the east. Tur­khokh stands as a sep­a­rate rocky tow­er in the range be­tween two cols. The Rodina glacier lies be­neath the south­ern slopes of the peak, and the Doni­sar­tseti glacier be­neath the north­ern ones. The peak is tech­ni­cally sim­ple, heav­ily de­graded. The only route was first as­cended on 17 Au­gust 1934 by:

• I. An­to­no­vich,
• A. Zo­lo­tarev,
• D. Dons­koy,

Fig. 26 103. Uilpata (4648 m) via the Southwest Ridge (combined route, category 2B difficulty, Fig. 26). From the bivouac on the plateau (closed crevasses), bypass the Bivouachnaya peak from the left (north) and approach the Uilpatinsky Pass, located between Uilpata on the left and the CDS peak on the right.

• Traverse the plateau and cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge (protection required)
• Ascend a steep, 250–300-meter snow slope to the Uilpatinsky Pass Time from the initial bivouac: 2–3 hours. The path from the KSP of the Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut or on the scree - Uilpatinsky overnight stays - is described in route 83. From the Uilpatinsky overnight stays, traverse the snow plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey Glacier, bypassing the southeastern slopes of Uilpata. Approach the right side of the broad saddle of the Uilpatinsky Pass, connecting Uilpata on the right with the CDS peak on the left. Turn right and ascend a gentle snow slope to the right side of the long, narrow rocky ridges descending from the right side of the Uilpatinsky Pass between the ice falls of hanging glaciers. Glaciers:

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.