Fig. 26. 164. Lekzyr Severная via North Ridge (combined route, V. Martynova, category 4A, fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the "Morena Lekzyr" sites (point 159), cross the Eastern branch of the Lekzyr Glacier and approach the right side of the Tot pass — the left side of the base of the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak. From the glacier:

• overcome the bergschrund via a snow bridge;
• ascend a steep 100–300-meter ice-and-snow slope to the North Ridge of Lekzyr Severная peak.

168. Lekzyr Yuzhnaya via South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, E, Beletsky, 3B cat. diff., fig. 24, 26).

From Tot Pass (route 160) descend a snow slope with a bergschrund in its lower part to Tot Glacier and along its right side (closed crevasses) approach the right side of the south-eastern ridge of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya peak. From the glacier, having traversed the bergschrund, ascend 100–120 m up a snowy-ice slope of the "tie" to a col (cornice) of the South-Eastern ridge above the 1st pillar. Here, turn right, approach the 2nd pillar, bypass it with a descent along a ledge on the left (belay) and get behind it onto the South-Eastern ridge. Then:

• 15–20 m along a snowy slope,
• 80–90 m along rocky South-Eastern ridge to below a wall. Bypass the wall on the right along a ledge. Then, traverse 50–60 m along medium-difficulty rocks on the right side of the South-Eastern ridge (gully) and via an ice-snow couloir ascend to the South-Eastern ridge. Then:
• along medium-difficulty rocks,
• along a snowy col (cornice),
• along simple, easy rocks of the South-Eastern ridge — ascend to the summit of Lekzyr Yuzhnaya.

Mestia route via the Southwest Ridge, Category 1B

Route Description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" recreation center and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of these has Mestian overnight stays. Climbing to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of the large hitching post on which the Mestian hut is located; we go around the hitching post on the left and climb onto it. There are small crevices under the hitching post. From the Mestia Hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. The path continues along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large glacier crevices are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again emerge onto a large firn plateau, along which we move in the direction of the Mestia Pass. From the Mestia Pass, we turn left and move across the vast firn plateau towards the snow pyramid of Mestia-Tau. Crevices are possible on the left as we proceed. Descent is via the ascent route. The median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier

Mestia route via the southwest ridge, 1B

Route description:

From the "Djailyk" base camp* past the "Ullu-Tau" camp and further along the trail along the right (orographically) bank from Adyr-Su to the moraine rises to the left of the Adyr-Su glacier tongue. The first of them hosts Mestia camping sites. Having ascended to the next rise, we reach the glacier and cross it in the direction of a large hitzan on which the Mestia hut is located; we bypass the hitzan on the left and ascend onto it. There are small crevasses under the hitzan. From the Mestia hut, we ascend a steep firn slope, and to the right of the rocky ridge, we reach the glacier. Further, the path goes along the glacier, which is usually covered with a thick layer of snow. Large crevasses on the glacier are bypassed on the right as we proceed. Further, after a steep ascent, we again reach a large firn plateau and move along it in the direction of the Mestia pass. From the Mestia pass, we turn left and move along the vast firn plateau towards the snowy pyramid of Mestia-Tau. There may be crevasses on the left as we proceed. The descent is made via the ascent route. Median moraine of the Adyr-Su glacier

Report

On the ascent of Mestia-Tau peak via the Southern counterfort, category 4B (approximately)

Mestia-Tau peak is located in the upper part of the Lekzyr massif, in a spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge extending from the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi. From Mestia-Tau peak, a snow-ice ridge descends westward to the Mestia Pass plateau, classified as a category 1B route. To the north, a ridge leads to the Western peak of Sarykol-Bashi and is part of the traverse of these peaks via a category 2A route. The eastern slopes of Mestia-Tau peak feature very steep and deteriorated rocks, interspersed with small ledges. To the south, the peak initially gives way to a narrow and gentle snow ridge leading to the "Uzlovoĭ" gendarme, which then drops off southward with a rocky triangular wall. The middle part of this wall forms a pronounced rocky ridge. The route along the Southern ridge is logical and safe. This route can be recommended for the ascent of sports groups at the 5th training stage located in the vicinity of the Lekzyr glacier. Map of the Lekzyr glacier area. Group's route. Tourist trails. The base camp of the Dzhaĭlyk alpine camp разрядников was situated on the right (orographic) upper lateral moraine of the Lekzyr glacier, beneath the slopes of the eastern peak of Ullu-Tau.

Route Description

Traverse of peaks Ozyorny - Khimik, combined, Category 3

Route description:

From the Ulutau alpine base through the sports ground, where the trail begins, which goes past the former "Churko dorm", then along the stream (to the left of the stream), flowing from under the glacier on the northern slope of the "Treugolnik" peak. Further, the trail turns left and goes along the rocky outcrops to the training rocks "over the camp". Here the trail is lost, you need to move up the grassy slopes to the moraine deposits and further along the moraine deposits and ascents up past the cirques of the Treugolnik and Moskovsky Komsomolets peaks to Ozyorny lake. There are bivouac sites near the lake. Going around the lake to the right, you come out onto the Ozyorny glacier. Straight ahead will be the ridge between peaks Zimny and Ozyorny (a pronounced depression in the ridge). You need to move not to this ridge, but to move along the glacier to the right along the long "fence" of the Northwest ridge of peak Ozyorny to a wide snow, in the lower part scree, couloir with a clearly visible ridge in the ridge before the gendarme. Up the couloir to the right past rocky outcrops (to the right) to the ridge. The first gendarme is bypassed on the left along the shelves, then exit to the right onto the ridge and further along the ridge to the next gendarme, which can be bypassed on the right along the shelves and come out onto a large snow ridge, from which the pre-summit snow and ice ascents open up. Here it is possible to organize a bivouac, since further movement goes entirely on snow, which in the second half of the day becomes very soggy.

203. Orlyu via the North Ridge (Category 1B route). The path from the Adylsu alpine camp along the Tyutyusu gorge to the stream flowing with waterfalls from the left lateral gorge, which is highly elevated above the Tyutyusu valley, is described in route 184. Crossing the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream, turn left and ascend a steep rocky slope on the right bank of the stream into its valley, above two waterfalls. Then:

• along the moraines and scree along the Zapadnyy Kayarta stream,
• across a simple, gently sloping (with crevasses in the upper part!) Zapadnyy Kayarta glacier, reach the saddle in the ridge between the Orlyu peak on the right and the Glavnaya Kayarta peak on the left — the Shternberg pass. To the pass:
• from the glacier, ascend a steep ice-snow slope (beware of rockfall from the peaks' slopes!),
• then ascend simple, fragmented rocks to the Shternberg pass. On the pass, turn right and:

186. Sullukol via the left counterfort of the North face (D. Sukhodolsky's route, cat.4B)

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.