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A technical ascent description to the summit Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the north-eastern edge in the Adyl-Su gorge on Central Caucasus.

Ascent Record

  1. Category: Technical
  2. Ascent Area: Central Caucasus, Adyl-Su valley
  3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m)
  4. Route: via North-Eastern edge (B. Subartovich route), Category 5B, 2.4.34
  5. Elevation Gain: — 535 m Distance: — 720 m Length of Category VI sections: — 70 m Average steepness of the main route section: — 73 degrees entire route: — 62 degrees
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Ascent to the summit of Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge, category 5B difficulty level, description of the route and tactics of the ascent by the team in 1988.

  1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
  2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range.
  3. Peak: Volnaya Ispaniya (4200 m) via the NE edge.
  4. Category 5B complexity (Subortovich route)
  5. Route characteristics: Average steepness of the main wall section — 78°. Average steepness — 48°. Height difference — 480 m. Length of sections: Category difficulty section — 135 m.
  6. Pitons hammered in: | rock | ice | bolt | chocks | |:----:|:---:|:------:|:-----:| | 18 + 11^X | 7 | 2^X | 19 |
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Ascent to the summit of Bolshoy Nakhar via the center of the northwest wall, category 6B, climbed by the team of the Dagestan Republican Search and Rescue Service in 1997.

Climbing Passport

  1. Rock climbing category.
  2. Region 2.3, Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperazau pass.
  3. Nakhar Bolshoy, 3784 m, point 90, V. Kovtun's route 1977 via the center of the NW wall, rock climbing route.
  4. 6B complexity category, second ascent.
  5. Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m, wall height difference – 650 m (from 2990 m to 3640 m), average wall slope – 70°, route length – 1300 m, wall section length – 800 m, section lengths: 1 – 60 m, 2 – 150 m, 3 – 305 m, 4 – 110 m, 5 m, 5 – 620 m (including 25 m of artificial climbing), 6 – 55 m (including 50 m of artificial climbing), total artificial climbing – 75 m, with complexity: A1 – 15 m, A2 – 55 m, A3 – 5 m.
  6. Equipment used on the route:
    • bolt hammers – 41/5, including 22 on stations
    • rock pitons – 158/42 – 28
    • chocks – 60/20 – 8
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**First winter ascent of the north wall of Chatyn via L. Myshlyaev's Route (grade 6B).**

Passport

  1. Technical class
  2. Central Caucasus
  3. Peak Chatyn Main — 4368 m, "по ромбу" North wall (route by L. Myshlyaev)
  4. 6B category of difficulty
  5. Elevation gain — 770 m, length — 880 m Length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 83° (3600–4040 m), including 6B cat. diff. — 95° (3825–3860 m; 3935–4030 m)
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The ascent of the Lithuanian team to the summit of Shkhara (4229 m) via the north face of the north-west ridge in 1988, complexity category 5B, with a detailed description of the team's technical actions.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

  1. Ascent category: technical
  2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Shkhelda gorge
  3. III western Shkhelda (4229 m) via the north face of the northwest ridge (Kensitsky variation)
  4. 5B category of difficulty
  5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1129 m, height difference of the route's wall section — 320 m, route length — 1630 m, length of the route's wall section — 340 m,
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