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Route Description: левой части 3 стены
### Route Description to Bodhona Peak via the Left Section of the West Face Technical specifications and details on navigating the route.
Passport
I. Technical Class 2. Fann Mountains 3. Bodhona Peak, via the left part of the western wall, Zhitenev's route 4. Height difference: 965 m, length 1120 m. Length of sections: 6th cat. diff. – 540 m, 5th cat. diff. – 210 m. Average steepness of the route is 85°. 5. Number of pitons:
| rock | bolt | chock | ice screws | 'friends' |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| 231 | 18 | 150 | 3 | 41 |
Route Description: С стене
Description of the route to the summit of Sev. Bodhona (5300 m) via the north wall, category 5B difficulty level, third ascent in 1979.
Ascent Certificate
I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent region — Fann Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodkhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of difficulty (Kudinov I.B.'s route, 1968, 3rd ascent) 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m, height difference — 2100 m, average steepness — 75°, length of challenging sections — 520 m, 6th category of complexity. 5. Pitons hammered in: rock (including stoppers) — 220, ice — 4 6. Total climbing hours — 40 h 7. Number of bivouacs — 4 (all convenient)
Route Description: С стене
Ascent to the summit of Sev. Bodhona (5300 m) via the north wall, Kudinov's Route, 5B category of complexity. Detailed description of the route and its technical characteristics.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent category — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Fan Mountains. 3. Route — peak S. Bodhona (5300 m) via N. wall, 5B category of complexity («Kudinov I.B. route, 1968, 3rd ascent») 4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 3270 m height difference — 2100 m average steepness — 75° length of difficult sections — 520 m, VI category of complexity 5. Pitons driven:
Route Description: С стене
**Peak Bodhona East, ascent via the North Face by B. Bogdanov's route (6 cat. difficulty) in 1991**; description of the route and tactics employed by the MSU team.
INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM AND TOURIST CENTER "VERTIKAL-ALAUDIN" www.fany.ru
Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991)
Ascent Passport
Technical Grade. Pamir-Alay, Fann Mountains. Peak Bodhona East, via the North Face (B. Bogdanov's route, 1991) Difficulty category — 6B, first ascent. Ascent characteristics:
- Elevation gain — 1770 m, wall section — 1650 m
- Length — 2866 m, wall section — 1976 m
- Length of sections with 5-6 difficulty grade — 701 m (6th grade — 375 m)
- Average steepness of the main route — 60°, section R0–R28 — 65°, section R34–R53 — 70°
Route Description: СВ кф. С гребня
Ascent of the Leningrad Military District team to the peak Diamar (3900) via the north-eastern sheer wall in the Fann Mountains.
- The climbing area is the Fan Mountains.
- The ascent route is to peak Diamar (3900) via the center of the northeast face. C. 3 cat.-4 π 1/111–29: — 45.
- Characteristics of the ascent: Height difference — 900 m, average steepness — 60°, length of difficult sections — 245 m.
- Number of pitons driven: rock — 54, ice — , screw (bolts) —
- Total travel time — 18.5 hours.
- Number of overnight stays — 1 (lying down).
Route Description: В кф. СВ стены
Climbing route description to Zamok peak (5070 m) via the eastern counterforce of NNE wall in Pamir-Alay, category of difficulty 5B.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: technical
- Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range
- Peak, its height, ascent route: Zamok, 5070 m, via the Eastern counterfort of the NNE wall, third ascent
- Proposed difficulty category: 5B
- Route characteristics: route length: 1100 m, height difference: 900 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections: fifth category – 280 m, sixth category – 35 m
- Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock 106, ice 2, bolt 1 (used someone else's)
- Number of climbing hours: 18 hours, climbing days – two
- Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:
Route Description: СВ стене
Ascent to Zamok peak (5070 m) via N.N.E. wall in the Hissar Range, 5B difficulty category, second ascent.
ASCENSION DOCUMENT
- Class of ascension: technical
- Area of ascension: Gissar Ridge
- Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Zamok, 5070 m, via N.N.E. wall
- Difficulty category: 5B rated, second ascent
- Route characteristics: total altitude difference 1230 m, average steepness of the route 71°, including technical parts 78°, route length 1868 m and sections of cat. diff. (m): 1 — 130, 2 — 160, 3 — 120,
Route Description: С стене
First ascent of the north wall of Pik Zindon (Fan Mountains) — an extremely challenging climbing route, over 1000 m long, with pitches up to 75° and considerable technical difficulties.
Ascent Log
- Ascent category — technical
- Ascent region — Fan Mountains
- Ascent route — v. Zindon via the north wall, 4800 m
- Ascent characteristics: height difference 1000 m average steepness 75°, complex section length 880 m
- Pitons used: rock 207, including 24 wooden wedges ice 8, no bolt pitons
- Total climbing hours 95.5
- Number of nights and their characteristics — seven:
Route Description: С кф. 3 гребня
Ascent to the summit Mariya (4970 m) via the northern spur of the western ridge, category of difficulty 5B, first ascent, Fan Mountains.
Ascent Passport
I. Ascent class — technical. 2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via the north buttress of the western ridge, first ascent. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 940 m; total height difference of the entire route — 1670 m; average steepness — 53°; height difference of the buttress itself — 1450 m; average steepness — 62°; height difference of the rocky part of the buttress — 850 m; average steepness — 70°. 6. Pitons driven: rock — 152, ice — 37.
Route Description: С кф. 3 гребня
Description of the ascent to the summit of Maria (4970 m) via the N buttress of the 3rd ridge, difficulty category 5B, climbed by a team of climbers in 1980.
Ascent Log
(third ascent) I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir, Fann Mountains 3. Maria peak via North counterfort of the 3rd ridge (4970 m) 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 1670 m, length of 5–6 km/tr. sections — 795 m, average steepness — 65° 6. Pitons hammered: | | rock | ice | bolt | chocks |