12. 1st peak of the Crown of Siam from the southwest, route 26 c/d, fig. 5.

The ascent can be made either from the base camp or from a bivouac on the left moraine of the White Pyramid's Eastern glacier. From the Four Pass, descend along a gentle snowfield to the right, under the cliffs of the western slopes of the southern ridge of the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam. Traverse the snowfield to reach broad ledges covered with fine scree and running parallel to the rocky ridge. Move along these ledges until they intersect with a shallow, snow-filled couloir. The latter is 1.5–2 m wide. Further movement:

• up to the right along the couloir, where after 12 m, convenient ledges begin, leading up to the ridge. This section is well-defined, as it is bounded on the left by difficult rocks.
• before reaching the ridge, turn left under a rock wall 10–12 m high, with outcrops of black rocks in its upper part.
• under this wall, pass to a gap in the ridge. From the gap, ascend rocks with good holds to a small platform at the level of the upper edge of the wall. Belay is piton. Above the wall, a narrow ledge goes left, allowing traverse of the rocks above the wall to a convenient exit up to a broad, gentle platform. Ascend a short, wide couloir leading to the pre-summit ridge, up to the right onto the ridge. Along the ridge to the summit is 200–250 m. In some sections of the ridge, alternating belays are required. Descent from the summit is by the ascent route. The ascent takes 7 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock climbing 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, spur of the Gissar Ridge 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — I tower of the Siama Crown, 3950 m, via the bastion from the east. 4. Difficulty category (assumed) — 3B 5. Route characteristics: a. height difference of the wall section — 260 m; b. total height difference — 400 m; c. average steepness of the wall section — 60°; d. length of sections:

13. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the Tsirk of Belaya Piramida, 16 km/tr. route, fig. 5

From the bivouac on the left moraine of the East glacier of Belaya Piramida under the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, approach the 4th peak. When bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, one should be cautious, as the couloirs descending from the peak are rockfall-prone. The ascent to the peak goes via a snowy couloir leading to the ridge to the right of the peak. Then move along the ridge for 50–60 m until reaching slabs inclined to the southeast towards the Siam Valley. The slabs are climbed on the right with running belay. Then, via easy rocks, staying to the right of the ridge, reach the peak. The descent from the peak is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 5 hours. Fig. 5

Fig. 5

14. 4th peak of the Crown of Siam from the northeast, route 26 cat., fig. 5

The path from the base camp to the upper part of the couloir under Nishon pass is described in route 11. In the upper part, traverse left into a couloir that widens into the slopes. Reach the rocks, which are heavily destroyed shelves with large, standalone rock blocks. The slope, with a steepness of up to 40° in the upper part, leads under the walls of the main peak. To the right of it, separated by a sharp drop in the ridge, the second peak is visible. Before reaching the ridge, overcome a monolithic wall with a cleft, which is bypassed on the right between rocks, and then up through the cleft to the left. Insurance through ledges. Ascend to the ridge, the southeastern side of which consists of solid slabs. Follow the slabs to reach steep rock blocks forming the highest point of the 4th peak of the Crown of Siam. The ascent to the peak from the couloir takes 2 hours. The descent from the peak is along the ridge leading to the saddle between the 4th and 3rd peaks of the Crown of Siam, on its left side, emerging onto an extensive slab inclined towards the Siam Valley. Traverse it diagonally to reach an inclined inner corner. Insurance is alternating, with pitons. Organizing a sport descent is possible. After the inner corner, a second slab leads to the saddle between the peaks. Follow rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning into convenient shelves, to descend onto a snow patch. Below the slopes of the peaks of the Crown of Siam, reach Four pass. Return to the base camp via the pass.

15. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the south, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 12. From the 1st peak of the Crown of Siam, descend north along a ledge. Then follow rocks with steepness up to 55° and length of 80–90 m with good protrusions, which are more expedient to descend using a sport climbing technique down to a col. From the col, traverse a gendarme on the left along a narrow talus ledge to a ridge of black crumbly rocks. Ascend along the ridge for 20 m to a large flat boulder. 10 m from the boulder, a steep couloir descends to the northwest, which is crossed in its upper part to exit onto a ledge that veers left from the couloir. At the end of the ledge, ascend a steep short groove to the ridge of the 2nd peak of the Crown of Siam. Then ascend easy slabs with a slight steepness to the summit. The descent from the summit begins along the ridge to the left via a crack into a niche, from where a 40 m rope descent leads to a snowpatch that descends to the col between the 2nd and 3rd peaks. The ascent to the 4th peak is described in route 13. Descend from the summit east along the ridge, and then along ledges to the left to the Nishon pass. From the pass, descend west on snow and then, bypassing the peaks of the Crown of Siam, return to the Four Pass and to the base camp. The traverse takes 8–9 hours.

16. Crown of Siam, traverse of 4 peaks from the north, route 36 cat. diff., fig. 5

The beginning of the traverse is described in route 14. Ascend to the 3rd peak of the Crown of Siam slightly to the right of the ridge via a snowy couloir. Descend from the summit along an easy rocky ridge to the col between the 3rd and 2nd peaks.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: Rock.
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Gissar Ridge, Varzobek area, Pily.
3. Peak: Krylya Tadzhikistana, its height is 3650 m, ascent route to the Central peak via the southern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 550 m.
   • Average steepness: 50°.
   • Length of sections: 1300 m, 2370 m, 3130 m, 430 m, 540 m, 6 m.
6. Pitons driven:

1. Climbing type — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alai, Gissar Ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route — Mt. Mayskaya, 3500 m, via the cleft in the North face.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: a) elevation gain — 200 m. b) length of sections — 4A cat. diff. — 50 m; 3 cat. diff. — 120 m; 2 cat. diff. — 55 m; 5A cat. diff. — 25 m. c) average steepness — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: a) rock pitons — 16

6. Medvezhy Zamok from the Big Siama glacier, 2A category of difficulty, fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend Siama along the moraines, then turn right and bypass Medvezhy Zamok peak from the west. The further path leads to the ridge connecting Shlem and Medvezhy Zamok peaks. Before reaching the saddle, turn right and ascend rocks, where occasional belays are required, to a snow patch below the north ridge of the summit. Ascend the rocks to the ridge. Follow an easy ridge to the summit. On the way from the North summit to the South summit, it is necessary to overcome two walls 7-10 m high. Piton belays are used. The further path to the summit is along easy rocks. The descent from the summit is via the ascent route. The ascent takes 7 hours.

7. Medvezhiy Zamok from Zamok Pass, category 3A route, fig. 4.

From the base camp, ascend northwards via scree and grassy slopes to Zamok Pass. From the pass, move left towards the south-eastern ridge of the summit. The ascent begins along this ridge on moderately difficult rocks. Protection is alternating. Overcome two short rock walls. Bypass the gendarme on the right via slabs. The subsequent internal corner, with a steepness of up to 60° and 15 m long, is climbed left of the ridge, then along the ridge. Bypass the second gendarme on the left via ledges. Protection is via pitons. The bypass is 20–25 m long. Then ascend a 4-meter rock wall to reach a broad ridge platform. Traverse subsequent grey slabs on the right via a crack between them. Further, ascend via scree and easy rocks to the Southern summit. The descent from the summit to the north is via the Northern summit — category 2A (route 6). The ascent takes 9 h. Ledges with large rocks Gateway Ledge (60°) Black veins: 3rd 2nd 1st B. Siamy Glacier

Description

of the ascent to the peak "SEL'MASHEVETS" 2–6 category of difficulty. 14200 15 — 3–63 From the city of Frunze, we arrive at the "Issyk-Ata" resort. From the resort, the path lies along the right (orographic) bank of the river to the edge of the forest, located on the left bank of the river. From here, a view opens up to the gorge and the peak "KONEV" (on the right). At this point, we should cross to the left bank of the river, where we can make a halt. In the middle of the "Issyk-Ata" gorge stands the peak "BOTVEY", with sheer walls dividing the gorge into two branches. From the halt, the path goes through the meadow in the direction of the right branch of the gorge. Having reached a large boulder standing alone on the meadow, we turn left and descend down the scree to the river. Further, the path goes upstream along the river under the overhanging bank. At this point, we should be particularly cautious and attentive, as rockfalls or landslides are possible, especially after rain. We cross to the right bank of the river and ascend to the foot of a steep moraine, where we can rest at the edge of the forest. The approach to the moraine takes 4–5 hours. The ascent up the moraine is done closer to the left (in the direction of travel) side. The gorge gradually narrows. We overcome the last moraine ridge and enter the "BOTVEY" cirque. The ascent up the moraine to the cirque takes 4–5 hours. We set up camp on the "BOTVEY" glacier near the lake. The campsite is very convenient and safe. It takes 10–15 minutes to walk from the tents to the foot of the pass. The ascent to the pass via the middle scree takes about an hour. We form rope teams on the pass. The path from the pass goes along the scree beside the rocky outcrops — gendarmes — on the right (in the direction of travel) side. The movement along this section includes the following stages:

• The first and second gendarmes are bypassed with belay through rocky outcrops.