Photo 1. Panorama of the Tutek massif from the Samjon river valley Photo 2. MSU peak from the start of the route Photo 3. Overcoming the bergschrund (section 4230–4240) Photo 5. The same (view back) Photo 4. Traversing the snow-ice slope (section 4240–4340)

Photo illustrations for the route Photo 5. On the section R0–R1Photo 6, 7. Work on the section R1–R2 Photo 8. Exit from the SE wall to the eastern ridge. View of the section R3–R4 Photo 9. At the 2nd control pitch. Writing a note

a. Pik Sergeya Andreeva (512? m) according to the classical route from the Purovsky glacier, category III difficulty. August 4-5, 1969:

• A. S. Nardekhov
• D. I. Nolorodov
• L. A. Bellew
• L. P. Pimanova
• O. A. Palya
• Z. O. Rapoport August 10, 1969:
• G. S. Prokopenko

A large snowy ascent. Further, I, 5–2 ropes along a 60–70° snowy slope with an exit left onto rocks. There is a bivouac site here. You can set up I–II tents, after roughly processing the thawing ice that creeps onto the rocks. From the bivouac on the Northeast buttress — 9–12 hours. Along the 30–35° snowy ridge — two ropes until exiting onto heavily destroyed simple rocks, leading through 30–40 m onto the ridge, which is a continuation of the Southeast buttress of the summit. Further movement along the ridge involves overcoming a small "ryzhyi mandar" head-on or bypassing it on the left with an exit in 40 m under a 30-meter wall. The wall is overcome via an internal corner with frozen rocks (rock pitons). The exit onto the wall on the right is less convenient due to cornices on the rocks. After overcoming the wall, a sharp rocky ridge exits under a large rectangular "mandari" rock. The "mandari" is bypassed on the right (I rope) with piton protection. Further movement (4.45 ropes) along the ridge with good monolithic rocks and cornices on the right until the pre-summit. The pre-summit plateau is convenient for an overnight stay. From the pre-summit to the summit, there are 100 m practically without any ascent (be cautious, with cornices on the right). The exit onto the summit, which is a large cornice, is along the visible line of rocks on the left in the direction of travel. The summit tour is arranged between two large monolithic rocks in the western part of the summit. Ascent time:

• From the bivouac site on the rocks under the southeast buttress — 5–7 hours.
• Descent from the summit via the ascent route — 12–14 hours.

L. A. Bodyaev, A. S. Nardomov, D. N. Molodtsov, L. N. Mikakova The route starts from col «4600» (for the path to the col see route 21).­ A simple rocky ridge leads to the ascent to the higher peak called Pik Druzei; route difficulty is 1B.­ Time from the col is 1 hour. The descent from the summit of Pik Druzei is done down steep scree slopes (beware of falling rocks) to the west towards Pik «Meteor».

From the pass to the summit is about 2 hours via the trail. The first and second mandarin are bypassed on the right, following the path and rejoining the ridge. Further along the spur with a snowy cornice and then we reach a steep firn slope (2 ropes). Then a straightforward ascent follows over rocks and snow to rocky outcrops on the ice. The ascent up the rocks involves variable protection. Above is an icy ridge crest, which is overcome by cutting 6–8 steps. Having overcome this ridge, we find ourselves on the summit. The cairn is located on the leftmost of the summit towers. Descent is via the ascent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Class of wall ascents.
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge, Myn-Teke gorge.
3. Peak 5070 (Rossich) via the north-eastern counterfort of the north wall.
4. The route is approximately category 5B, combined, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1070 m. Length: 900 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty: 590 m, including 6 category difficulty: 100 m. Average steepness of the route: 55°. Average steepness of the wall part of the route: 65°.
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Sky Hooks | Nuts |

Passport

1. Class — TECHNICAL.
2. Region — PAMIR-ALAY, Ak-Terek spur of the Turkestan Range.
3. Peak SKALISTY, SOUTHEASTERN SUMMIT — 5450 m, via the eastern wall of the Southern ridge.
4. Proposed 6B category of difficulty, FIRST ASCENT.
5. Height difference — 1610 m, length 2275 m. Length of sections with 5–6B category of difficulty — 1847 m. Average steepness of main sections:

• 84° (4100–4750 m)
• 72° (4750–5280 m)

Solnechnaya (4400 m­­²) from Kisementy Glacier, 1B category of complexity

August 5, 1969 V. Prokopenko N. Ivanov R. Dorofeev N. Obut R. Starikov A. Shebat The starting point of the route is the assault camp on the Kisementy Glacier. Solnechnaya Peak is located on the ridge leading to Tajdi-Tash Peak. The main part of the route follows this ridge. The ascent to the ridge is via a talus slope composed of large rocks.

Стол (4500 m) along the Kinomu slope 35° cat. tr. August 22, 1969 G. S. Starikov The summit of Стол is located on the southwestern slope of the Kov-Bel ridge and is connected by a pass to Таджи-Таш. The beginning of the route passes along the orographic left side of the snow-ice couloir descending along the Kinomu slope of the summit. The first two ropes pass through heavily destroyed rocks located away from the couloir. Then the rocks become monolithic, but with good holds and footholds, the steepness is 50–60°. After 200 m, by traversing to the right, we enter the couloir running parallel to the main one. In the middle of summer, most of the couloir is snowy, and only in the last few meters - ice. The couloir is 70 m, then exit to the right onto rocks. 30 m up a simple slab, then traverse left to exit under our spot with a cork. After the chimney, an inclined shelf leads to a platform under a 30-meter rock "mirror":

• Straight from the platform, 15 m up (steep), then traverse left.