Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Aydarbek gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Koltsova West peak (C), 4820 m via the North wall (Ahtyrchenko route)
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of 5B category sections — 240 m average steepness — 63°
6. Pitons driven:

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Pamir-Alay, Alayskiy Ridge, Kок-Су gorge.
3. Peak, its height and climbing route — Kyz-Korgon, 4730 m via North-Eastern wall.
4. Proposed category: 4A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m. average steepness — 40°. length of sections: I cat. diff. — none, II cat. diff. — 450 m, III cat. diff. — 500 m, IV cat. diff. — 600 m.
6. Pitons hammered: | For belay | For creating R.P.E. | | :-------- | :----------------- |

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technical 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge, Kок-Су gorge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — «Pravda Vostoka», 4950 m, via the North-Eastern wall 4. Difficulty category — 5B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m, length of 5–6 cat./tech. sections — 900 m, average steepness — 70°. 6. Pitons hammered for belay: rock — 132 pcs., ice — 18 pcs., bolt — 8, chocks — 16; for creating I.T.O. — 2 rock pitons. 7. Number of climbing hours — 30 h 8. Number of nights — one bivouac 9. Team composition:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Adai-Khoh ridge, Kozhu tract area, Koshkasu river area (canyon)
3. Peak, height, and ascent route — p. 4770 via Eastern ridge
4. Expected difficulty category — 3 × (difficulty 2A)
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 700 m, average steepness — 35°, section lengths — 1st category / ice 400 m, 2nd category / technical 390 m, 3rd category/technical 60 m, 4th category/technical 33 m
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for hooking, etc. — rock 3, ice screw pitons

Ascent Passport

Appendix I

1. Ascent class - technical
2. Ascent area - Pamir-Alay
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: p. Ya. Fabricius, 4820 m, right side of the north wall
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 800 m average steepness - 65° length of sections: R2, R3 - 450 m, R4, R5 - 520 m, R6

Description of the first ascent of Peak Yaana Anvelt (5049 m) via the northwest ridge, category 4B difficulty. The group of climbers from the "Alay" alpine camp, led by A. Aedviir, from the "Kalev" sports society, consisting of:

• U. Grauen;
• II sports category, "Kalev" sports society, Yu. Ahlberg;
• II sports category, "Kalev" sports society, A. Aedviir. Departed on July 17, 1977, at 5:00 from a bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Alaudin glacier. The approach to the start of the route took 1 hour 30 minutes. Section R0–R1. The first part of the route was traversed via a snow-ice couloir upwards to a ridge. The couloir is clearly visible from a small cirque at the foot of the peak. They reached the ridge, where they ascended with simultaneous belay, by 2:00. The key section began from this ridge. The first rope length of section R0–R1 (as marked on the diagram) involved simple climbing with protection through outcrops. Many loose rocks were present. On the R2 section, one rock piton was used for protection. The most challenging sections were R4–R5 and R5–R6. The first climber ascended in galoshes with lower belay and set up a rope handrail. Climbing was complicated by the abundance of accreted ice. Section R6 begins with a small ledge. The aiguille is bypassed on the left. The rocks are covered with a thin layer of ice and snow. Rock and ice pitons were used for protection. Further ascent proceeded (sections R7, R8, and R9) along the ridge, where many overhanging rocks were present, especially on the northern side. The last rope lengths were traversed with simultaneous belay. The group reached the summit at 18:55, where they met another group that had ascended via the Syuga peak.

5Б cat. diff. 540 m, October 9, 1984

RSFSR Championship. First Ascent Class

Alai Range. Gaumysh Main (5367 m) via the center of the "rhombus" on the North face

Team of the Rostov Regional Sports Committee Senior coach of the team — MSMS Yuri Y. Arcishevsky Team captain — CMS Alexander G. Pogorelov 1984 344029, Rostov-on-Don, ul. 1st Konnaya Armiya, 4, T/A "Planeta" club. Phone: 52-20-70. Club Director — Ernest L. Mereckiy. 344010, Rostov-on-Don, ul. Krasnoarmeyskaya, 63/3, apt. 70, Yuri Y. Arcishevsky. Home phone: 32-02-16. 344032, Rostov-on-Don, ul. Kazanskaya, 85/2, apt. 155, Alexander G. Pogorelov.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Peak 5200 via North face
4. Difficulty category: 6
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 1200 m length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 1245 m average steepness: 74°
6. Pitons used:

Passport

of the ascent made in the 1983 Leningrad City Alpine Championship

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai. Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route — Gamuysh West peak (5200 m), North face, 6B category of difficulty (Yu. Gorenchuk's route)
4. Ascent characteristics: route length — 1433 m height difference — 1150 m average steepness — 65°–70° length of the most difficult sections (V–VI category of difficulty) — 1133 m

Klabo — a technical route in the Pamir-Alay mountain system, the northern spurs of the Alay Ridge, the Gumush gorge, the West Gumush peak, height — 5200 m above sea level, along the center of the north face (S. Efimov's route). Classified as 5B category of difficulty (official), proposed — 6 category of difficulty. Main characteristics of the route:

• Length — 1400 m
• Height difference — 1100–1200 m
• Average steepness — 70°–75°
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 875 m Number of pitons hammered and placement elements used:
• Placement elements — 63
• Rock pitons — 58
• Ice pitons — 120