Description of the first ascent of Peak Yaana Anvelt (5049 m) via the northwest ridge, category 4B difficulty.
The group of climbers from the "Alay" alpine camp, led by A. Aedviir, from the "Kalev" sports society, consisting of:
- U. Grauen;
- II sports category, "Kalev" sports society, Yu. Ahlberg;
- II sports category, "Kalev" sports society, A. Aedviir.
Departed on July 17, 1977, at 5:00 from a bivouac on the left lateral moraine of the Alaudin glacier. The approach to the start of the route took 1 hour 30 minutes.
Section R0–R1. The first part of the route was traversed via a snow-ice couloir upwards to a ridge. The couloir is clearly visible from a small cirque at the foot of the peak. They reached the ridge, where they ascended with simultaneous belay, by 2:00. The key section began from this ridge.
The first rope length of section R0–R1 (as marked on the diagram) involved simple climbing with protection through outcrops. Many loose rocks were present. On the R2 section, one rock piton was used for protection. The most challenging sections were R4–R5 and R5–R6. The first climber ascended in galoshes with lower belay and set up a rope handrail. Climbing was complicated by the abundance of accreted ice.
Section R6 begins with a small ledge. The aiguille is bypassed on the left. The rocks are covered with a thin layer of ice and snow. Rock and ice pitons were used for protection. Further ascent proceeded (sections R7, R8, and R9) along the ridge, where many overhanging rocks were present, especially on the northern side. The last rope lengths were traversed with simultaneous belay.
The group reached the summit at 18:55, where they met another group that had ascended via the Syuga peak.
From the summit, they descended along the southern ridge together with the other group via the route of their ascent. After several rope lengths of difficult climbing, they rappelled onto a ridge, where they spent the night. There was enough space for 5 tents.
On the morning of July 18, at 9:00, both groups continued their descent along the southern ridge downwards. By 16:00, they had separated, and by 18:00, both groups were descending along a black scree-filled couloir. They reached the foot by 19:00 and returned to the base camp by 20:00.
TABLE — CHARACTERISTICS OF ROUTE SECTIONS
| Date | Section designation | Average steepness, degrees | Length, m | Terrain characteristic | Difficulty category | Condition | Weather conditions | Number of ice pitons | Number of rock pitons | Number of bolt pitons |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 17.07. 1977 | R0–R1 | 45 | 810 | snow, ice | 2 | snow-firn | good | — | — | — |
| 12:00 | R1–R2 | 40 | 40 | rocks | 3 | rockfall hazard | good | — | — | — |
| R2–R3 | 65 | 30 | rocks | 4 | rockfall hazard | good | 1 | — | — | |
| R3–R4 | 40 | 35 | rocks | 3 | —"— | good | — | — | — | |
| 14:00 | R4–R5 | 85 | 40 | rock-ice | 5 | smooth, no handholds | good | 8 | — | — |
| R5–R6 | 10 | 38 | rock | 5 | scree, ice, thin snow | good | 5 | — | — | |
| R6–R7 | 20+trav | 30+40 | rock-ice | 4 | good | 3 | 2 | — | ||
| R7–R8 | 45 | 45 | —"— | 4 | —"— | good | 2 | — | — | |
| 16:00 | R8–R9 | 48 | 35 | rocks | 3 | overhanging rocks | —"— | — | — | — |
| R9–R10 | 45 | 30 | rocks | 4 | —"— | —"— | 3 | — | — | |
| R10–R11 | 50 | 40 | rocks | 3 | broken rocks | —"— | — | — | — | |
| R11–R12 | 40 | 40 | rocks | 3 | —"— | —"— | — | — | — | |
| 18:55 | R12–R13 | 30 | 40 | rocks | 2 | —"— | —"— | — | — | — |
| R13–Summit | — | — | rocks H=5049 | 2 | —"— | —"— | — | — | — | |
| R13–R14 | 40 | 300 | rocks, snow islands | — | broken rocks descent | —"— | — | — | — | |
| 18.07. 1977 | R14–R14a | vertical | 15 | rocks | — | loose rocks | —"— | 3 | — | — |
| R14a–R15 | 20 | 180 | rocks | — | loose rocks | —"— | — | — | — | |
| R15–R16 | 45 | 80 | rocks | — | rock-ice couloir | —"— | 5 | — | — | |
| R16–R17 | 45 | 120 | rocks | 3 | rock couloir | —"— | 4 | — | — | |
| R17–R18 | 15 | 700–800 | descent to black moraine | — | broken rocks | —"— | — | — | — |
The overnight conditions were satisfactory. There was enough space for 4–5 tents.
Permit 9.
Alpinism.
| | |
Section R6–R14.