Passport

Ascent Record for the 6th USSR Alpine Championship

1971 Category of ascent — technically difficult. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Tsey district. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes: Changikhokh 4420 m via the central part of the North face. Characteristics of the ascent: altitude difference 840 m, average steepness 80–100°, length of difficult sections 447 m. Number of pitons: rock 211, ice 2, expansion bolts 5. Duration: 5.2 climbing hours, not including descent. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: four, three on the wall (one split between two locations), semi-reclining and sitting. Team name — sports club "Torpedo" of the sports society "Zenit".

1. Surname, name, patronymic of the team captain and members, and their sports qualification: Korablyn Boris Nikolayevich, captain, Master of Sports; Gerasimov Viktor Aleksandrovich, member, Master of Sports; Yandreev Rem Nikolayevich; Shestinalov Ivan Yakovlevich, Master of Sports;

Ukrainian Council

With “Burevestnik” Sports Society

Dedicated to our teacher and friend Vitaly Vasilyevich OVCHAROV in honor of the 25th anniversary of his mountaineering career.

Chanchakhi–Khokh

via the central bastion of the northern wall (first ascent) 4461 m Kiev, 1968

Sporting Characteristics of Chanchakhi–Khokh Peak

Chanchakhi–Khokh peak is one of the most inaccessible peaks in the Tsey region. The easiest route to it is a category 4B route via the snowy couloir from the south. In addition, there are three category 5B routes via the Northern wall. The Northern wall majestically towers over the plateau of the Northern circus of the Tsey glacier.

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

Report on the Ascent by the "Alibek" Team of CS SDSO "Burevestnik" to Chan chakhi–Khokh via the North Face along the Central Bastion (Popov's Route), Category 6B, at the USSR Alpine Championship

I. Geographical and Sporting Characteristics of Chan chakhi–Khokh

The peak Chan chakhi–Khokh, chosen by the "Alibek" team for participation in the USSR Alpine Championship, is located in the well-known alpinist area of the Eastern Caucasus — Tsey. The peak is situated near the extremity of the Main Caucasian Ridge. Its height is 4642 meters above sea level. From a sporting perspective, its north face is of interest, with several routes plotted, not below category 5B. In 1968, a group of climbers from Kiev led by Popov ascended via the Central Bastion on the north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh, a route classified as Category 6B. Besides the first ascensionists, this route was followed only by a group led by Kinskiy from al "Elbrus" in 1969.

2. Characteristics of the Climbing Conditions

The height difference of the route is approximately 1000 m, with an average steepness of 70–80°. The entire route is divided into four parts — four bastions — by short ice sections. Camping in tents is only possible on steep snowy ridges separating the bastions. The solidity of the rocks decreases from the base to the summit; the upper part of the wall is heavily destroyed, and therefore the wall is characterized by frequent rockfalls, the intensity of which decreases only by the end of July — beginning of August. The Central Bastion, compared to other sections of the wall, is less "exposed" to rockfalls. The north face of Chan chakhi–Khokh is lit by the sun only in the morning, and the edge of the 4th bastion, projecting northwest, is almost never lit.

Report

on the first ascent route on the summit Chančahi 4461 m via the center of the North wall (proposed 6A category) by the team of Sumy regional FaiS from February 3 to 11, 2014. Team captain: Roško V. I. Team coach: Mitühin F. P.

Sumy — 2014

Addresses:

Coach Mitühin Fedor Petrovich 40004, Sumy, Metallurgov str., 14/67 ph. home +38 (050) 634-34-34 ph. work 8 (0542) 61-99-64 Leader Roško Vladimir Ivanovich

184

ASCENT RECORD

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge
3. Proposed category: 2A
4. Peak: Shulgin Peak via SE ridge, 3900 m, 3700
5. Height difference: 900 m Average slope: couloir – 30 °, wall – 50 °
6. Pitons driven: 3
7. Duration: 8 hours

REPORT

on the first ascent to the peak of Pavel Fitin via the Northwest ridge, category 3A difficulty level, by the team of the alpinism club "Cascade", from August 4 to 6, 2020. 2020

1. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Zemlyakov D.S. — 3rd sports rank, Kurchavov A.V. — 1st sports rank, Maximov D.S. — Candidate Master of Sports
1.3	Full name of the coach	Krutikov D.A.
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Club "Cascade"

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Urskhok 2nd Eastern, via the South wall, category 2A difficulty, by the team from the alpinism club "Kaskad", from July 7 to 8, 2020 2020 year

1. Ascent Passport

№№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports category of participants	Shmonova N.A. — 3rd sports category, Shmonov A.V. — 3rd sports category.
1.3	Full name of the coach	Egorin S.V.
1.4	Organization	Alpinism Club "Kaskad"

In memory of Alexander Razbitnov...

Report

on the first ascent to the summit of Sadonkhokh via the East Ridge, category 1B, by the team of the North Ossetian Search and Rescue Squad of the EMEROS Russia May 31, 2006 2022

1. Climbing Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Razbitnov A.S., Ivanov D.V., Mildzikhov R.V., Kamarzaev Z., Khachirov Z., Kokoyev D.T. All 3rd sports rank.

REPORT

on the first ascent to the Sadonkhok summit, via the North ridge, Category 1B complexity, by the team of North Ossetian Search and Rescue Squad of the EMERCOM of Russia September 20, 2022

I. ASCENT PASSPORT

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sport rank of the leader	Egorin S.V. — Master of Sports
1.2	Full name, sport rank of participants	Kokoev D.T. — 3rd sports rank. Shmonova N.A. — 3rd sports rank.