Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class

• Rock climbing

2. Ascent Area

• Pamir-Alai, Fann Mountains

3. Ascent Route — North face of peak Arg — third ascent — 5B category of difficulty
4. Ascent Characteristics height difference 1100 m; average steepness of the wall 80°, length of complex sections 870 m.
5. Pitons Driven rock 194, ice –, bolted 6

— 2 — The foaming distribution follows this pattern:

• Nn-lp­ppp­purov
• Tu­tup­ppp­-lsr- li­s
• Aran­chso­v-Јi­lov Then count by (2) and (3). The section is not very long, 30–40 m, but steep. At the pass, all the participants of Катьцит and Перопутная started at 9:00. Then they moved along the gully, traversing the funnels of Перопутная and Медведна (4) and (5). The ascent to the peak Бпо­б — (6) is done via destroyed slopes with simultaneous belay. We reached the peak at 14:30. We started descending from the peak at 14:30. We descended to the ridge below the funnels of Бпо­б and Бо­две­дна. From this point on, we descended, roped together, along a gentle slope that descends to the river Бпо­б. Further, we followed the right bank of the river Бпо­б or a trail through a clearing with a rainforest. We returned to camp at 15:40. V N O L N

1. The ascent to the peak Бпо­б via the western ridge is a Category 2A route.
2. The height of the peak is approximately 440 m.

In the up­per reaches, the val­ley is nar­rowed by snow, there are few trails. View of the summit and saddle see Fig. I. From the bivouac to Gusev's saddle — 4–4.5 hours of walking. From Gusev's saddle, move straight up in the direction of and along the ridge between Pik Chyorny and v. N. Ganz. At the glacier's ascent, there are many hazardous sections on the ridge, partially covered with snow. Movement without crampons is possible. One should move in rope teams, with occasional use of transverse belay. From the ridge, move left onto the snowy ascent (2 ropes), then to the summit (2 ropes), which is a rocky ridge: to the north and northeast — a firn dome, divided by a small saddle into western and eastern summits, both having small rocky outcrops. The summit drops off with sheer rocky walls to the north and southwest. Time from Gusev's saddle to the summit — 2–2.5 hours. In good weather, the summit offers a panorama of all the peaks in the Sansarsky Mountains system. To the northeast, the massive array of Bolshaya Gavza is visible, along with the spurs of the pyramid of Pik Krasnykh Zor. To the north and northeast are visible:

• Pik Chyorny,
• p. Zarnok,
• Meropo,
• v. Chintarga,
• p. Energiya,

1. Technical category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains (northern part). Imat Valley.
3. Eastern peak of "Paltsy" via the North-West ridge.
4. Proposed 2A category of complexity. First ascent.
5. Height difference 300 m. Length 500 m.
6. Length of sections — 1 category. 210 m. Pitons driven:

• rock — 2
• chockstones — 3
• ice screws — 1.

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Fann Mountains. Imat valley.
3. Patrush peak.
4. Proposed 1B category of difficulty. First ascent.
5. Height difference 200 m. Length of sections: 2nd category of difficulty – 150 m 1st category of difficulty – 400 m
6. Pitons not used.
7. Moving time – 2.5 hours
8. Group members: Baykovsky Yu.V., Gupalov A.

Ascent to the summit of Pila (4600 m) 25 c.d. SC

via the northwest ridge The summit of Pila, 4600 m high, is located in a ridge running north of the Lupdon pass. The route along the ridge is almost entirely rocky. There are very small sections of firn. The ridge is sharp, rocky, and consists of a series of pronounced "mandarins." The summit had remained unconquered until recently.

Descent after ascent

The group left the base camp at 12:00, heading towards the Lupdon pass. The approach to the pass takes 3 hours. Before reaching the pass point, we turn left. From there, the ascent begins via a wide, scree-filled couloir. The steepness of the couloir is 30°. The snow is hard and compacted in the lower part, and very loose and fine in the upper part of the couloir. The couloir ends at the ridge. The ascent via the couloir takes 3 hours. At the pass point on the ridge, we find a cairn. A note from climbers from "Varzob" camp is retrieved. Elevation: 4200 m. We set up a night's stay. At 7:00, we start on the route. Along a gentle snow slope, we reach the beginning of the local ridge leading to the summit in 10 minutes. The start of the route is very monolithic - rocks with convenient handholds. Two ropes along moderately difficult rocks - and we're on the ridge. Belay via outcrops. Just below the ridge, to the left of it, we advance another two ropes. We climb in turns with belay via outcrops. With top rope, we descend 10 m down a large rock (1 piton), and then back up to the sharp ridge. The ascent along the ridge at this point is only possible by crawling (20 m, 2 pitons). Careful belay is necessary. To the left and right - sheer walls. Further along the ridge, several rocks lead to "mandarin" #1. The "mandarin" should be bypassed from the right. Here, there's a long (40 m) inclined ledge, above which rocks overhang. Movement is only possible while crouching, and in some places - crawling. 3 pitons are hammered in at this section.

Russian Mountaineering Federation

Team Report

MAGNITOGORSK MOUNTAINEERING CLUB FIRST ASCENT ON PIK MAGNITKA, APPROX. 5A CAT.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area – 5.3.3 Pamiro-Alai;
2. Object of ascent – Pik Magnitka, via SW ridge, 4477 m;
3. Category of difficulty 5A;
4. Route type – rock;
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 957 m;

Photo 1. Panorama of the Tutek massif from the Samjon river valley Photo 2. MSU peak from the start of the route Photo 3. Overcoming the bergschrund (section 4230–4240) Photo 5. The same (view back) Photo 4. Traversing the snow-ice slope (section 4240–4340)

Photo illustrations for the route Photo 5. On the section R0–R1Photo 6, 7. Work on the section R1–R2 Photo 8. Exit from the SE wall to the eastern ridge. View of the section R3–R4 Photo 9. At the 2nd control pitch. Writing a note

a. Pik Sergeya Andreeva (512? m) according to the classical route from the Purovsky glacier, category III difficulty. August 4-5, 1969:

• A. S. Nardekhov
• D. I. Nolorodov
• L. A. Bellew
• L. P. Pimanova
• O. A. Palya
• Z. O. Rapoport August 10, 1969:
• G. S. Prokopenko