Section R3–R4

Description of the ascent to Peak Taranovoi via the North Ridge From the "Ala-Archa" alpine camp, the trail goes up the gorge. We ford the Ak-Sai River by stepping on stones. Further on, we follow a good trail to the Teke-Tor River, which is also easily forded a little above its confluence with the Ala-Archa River. Before reaching the Tuyuk-Su River, the trail turns left up a steep grassy slope. We set up a bivouac by a lake located before a steep rise of the old moraine. From the alpine camp to the moraine, it takes 4 hours of walking. From the bivouac, we ascend via the trail to the left of the lake onto the old moraine. We overcome another rise of the moraine and reach the river. We walked along the right bank of the river to the glacier. Having ascended onto the Tuyuk-Su glacier, we ascend via the middle part of the glacier, which is the most gentle. Crevasses are circumvented. We orient ourselves towards the snowy dome of the "School 67" peak. To the left lies the Taranovoi Pass, and further left, the peak is visible. The ascent route to Peak Taranovoi via category 1B route is visible. We continue moving along the glacier towards the North edge of this peak. A bergschrund is visible. We cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge. Insurance is provided through an ice axe. After the bergschrund, we ascend a 50-60 m ice slope with a 30-35° incline onto a saddle on the North ridge of Peak Taranovoi. Piton insurance is used. It takes 3 hours 30 minutes from the bivouac by the lake to the saddle.

As­cen­sion cer­tifi­cate

1. As­cen­sion re­gion:
2. Tian-Shan, 7.10 Tes­key-Ala­Too ridge, Ka­ra­kol gorge
3. Peak 4130 m via east­ern coun­ter­fort and N-E ridge
4. Pro­posed cat. 2B. First as­cen­sion.
5. Na­ture of the route — com­bined
6. Route ele­va­tion gain 500 m (by al­ti­me­ter)
7. Route length 800 m
8. Used on the route: ice hooks — 12, rock and nut pro­tec­tion — 0, bol­lard hooks — 0

Ascent Passport

on p. 4265 m.

1. First ascent — I. Kalas
2. Ascent area — Kyrgyz range, Golubina lake area
3. Summit p. 4265 m along the 63 ridge from l. Golubina, ridge route type
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 750 m, length of 2 category of difficulty sections — 450 m, average steepness — 42°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 5 (0); ice — 0
7. Number of walking hours — 6 hours
8. Number of overnight stays — none

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Tian-Shan, western Kokshaal-Tau
3. Peak Alpinist via the ridge
4. Proposed 5B category, first ascent
5. Elevation gain 1220 m. Distance 1970 m. Length of sections with 5th category difficulty 420 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route (4650–5190) 68°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock 17, chocks 26, ice screws 16

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the summit 5020 m («working name — Peak Gorin»)

Central Tien Shan, West Kokshaal-Too (41°1′46.12″ N 77°31′34.97″ E) via the South Ridge from the Sarychat glacier First ascent Presumably 2A category of difficulty Zaryaev V.V. + 2

Participants of the ascent

MOSCOW ALPINISM AND ROCK CLIMBING FEDERATION

Report

On the ascent of the CSKA team named after Demchenko

To the peak Gronki (Bolshaya Belaya) 5050 m. Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Too

via the northern ridge through the peaks:

• Beggar
• Ekstazi
• Yurnos Presumably 4A category of difficulty. First ascent Grigoryev D.R. - team leader

Route description to the summit of Peak Dementieva (4500 m), approximately 4A cat. diff. 7.5.713

Peak Dementieva (4500 m) is located in the northern spur of the Western Kokschaal-Too ridge (see map), which forms the right (orographic) bank of the Chong-Turasu river gorge.

Approaches

Leaving the base camp (see map) along the trail leading to the upper reaches of the Chong-Turasu river, we turn left at the third (along the way) stream flowing from the spur and flowing into the Chong-Turasu. Further ascent is along the talus (along the right orographic bank of the stream) under the rocky massif of the peak. The cemented talus resembles firm firn, requiring steps to be cut with the sole of the boot. At the beginning of the ridge on the talus, there is a possible spot for a tent, no water, but there is snow. The approach from the base camp to the stream takes 1 h, the ascent along the talus — 3–3.5 h.

Ascent

Bypassing the rocky walls on the right along the way, along the talus we reach the ridge (1 h), further the path goes along the ridge of medium difficulty, with protection through ledges, the rocks are quite heavily destroyed (2 h). The ridge turns into a sharp crest, which is overcome in a classical way, the length is 5–7 m. The crest leads to a wall (3–4 m) sheer with minimal holds, overhanging above the precipice. Protection is with pitons. After the wall, a ridge of medium difficulty (protection through ledges) leads to a 40-meter wall, dissected by a small crack. In front of the wall, there is a flat area where a tent can be pitched. Passing the wall — with piton protection without backpacks:

7.5.71

Route Label

Report

On the first ascent of Peak Dikiy (4930 m) via the eastern slope and northern ridge

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")