Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — TECHNICAL 2. Ascent Region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS 3. Ascent Route — Ushba North (4694 m) VIA NORTH-EAST FACE through the "STOLB" (pillar) 4. Presumed Difficulty Category — 6th cat. diff. 5. Route Characteristics: ELEVATION GAIN

• 1150 m EXTENT OF SECTIONS I and II cat. diff.
• 620 m

I. Climbing class — technical. 2. Climbing region — CENTRAL CAUCASUS. 3. Peak — SOUTH USHBA — 4710 m. First ascent route along the edge of the Western wall through the "pillar". 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6. 5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1460 m (3250 — 4710). Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1270 m, including 6th category — 735 m. Average steepness: route — 68–70°, wall section ("pillar", grey wall, canopy) — 90°. Total 850 m. 6. Driven pitons and used stoppers

344029, Rostov-on-Don, 1st Cavalry Army St., "Planet" club, A.G. Pogorelov

Ascent Log

1. CLASS — technical
2. ASCENT AREA — Central Caucasus
3. OBJECT OF ASCENT — Ushba South and North with ascent via the right part of the southwest wall 6B cat. diff. (Kustovsky's route)
4. DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 6B
5. HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 1450 m
6. DISTANCE — about 3000 m
7. PITONS DRIVEN: ROCK — 136/44

I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

Mt. Ushba 2000 m (C–D), via NW wall and descent to Gul lake («Kрест» / "Cross"), cat. 6A.

1st day — Hike to «Nemetskie nochevki» (German overnight camp) in Shkhelda gorge takes 4–6 hours. 2nd day — From «Nemetskie nochevki» through Ushba icefall:

• Ascend to Ushba pass and enter the upper part of Ushba glacier.
• Following its right edge, approach the NW counterfort of S. Ushba.
• Descend along the counterfort to the point where a glacier tongue "breaks through" it.
• To the left of it, on a rock shelf of Shkhelda slope of the counterfort, there is a convenient site. 3rd day — Descend to the glacier via inclined shelves and approach the I-st bergschrund. Cross the first bergschrund via a rope and then the second one. After overcoming the second bergschrund, reach the rocks of the left (in the direction of travel) side of a steep ice couloir continuing along the counterfort (NW edge), to the left of it. Further, either via the couloir or the rocks of the left side (120 m), bypassing difficult rocks via ice and vice versa. In the upper part, the left side of the couloir turns into a rocky ridge abutting the left side of the counterfort. Here, one should reach the ridge of the counterfort — this is the most technically challenging section. To reach the ridge, ascend the wall (40 m) to the right of a wide chimney filled with flowstone ice. Further movement along the ridge:

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3
2. Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge
3. Category 5B complexity
4. Route type: combined
5. Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths:

• Category V complexity: 830
• Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness:

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Western Caucasus, from Nakhar pass to Chipperaza pass 3. Mt. Dalar, right part of the North Face (V. Shopin route) 4. Category 5B difficulty, third ascent 5. Route elevation gain — 760 m, route length — 1060 m, wall elevation gain — 500 m, wall length — 640 m, length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty — 370+280=650 m. Average steepness of the wall — 70° (3270–3720 m) 6. Pitons driven: rock bolt anchors 149/24 (0+7)/(–87/11) 7. Team's walking hours — 28 and days — 2. 8. Joint snow overnight stay.

Ascent Passport

1. Technical class
2. Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge
3. Dalar via the center of the bastion (Ivaschenko route 1982)
4. Proposed category: 6A
5. Height difference: 939 m, of which 520 m is wall climbing; total route length is 1310 m, of which 550 m is wall climbing Section lengths:

• Category 5 – 250 m
• Category 6 – 210 m

6. Average steepness of the wall section — 71°

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock II. Ascent area - W. Caucasus from Klukhor Pass to Azau Pass. III. Peak - Dvoynyshka 3830 m. East peak. IV. Proposed difficulty category - 5A V. Route character - combined. VI. Route characteristics:

• height difference - 940 m.
• route length - 1490 m.
• incl. snow-ice sections - 1150 m.

Category II Ascent

I. Rock Class. 2. Western Caucasus. 3. Dvoynyashka Zap. peak, 3743 m, via 10В wall, second ascent. 4. Category of difficulty — 5Е. 5. Height difference — 650 m, total route length — 1050 m, length of sections with 5 — 6 category of difficulty — 500 m. Average steepness — 78° 6. Pitons hammered — (for belay / for creating I.T.O. / rock ice bolt anchors) 55/18 0/0 4/2 88/26 7. Number of climbing hours — 21, days — 2.