PASSPORT

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Range
3. Pik Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via NW wall (Cherevko route), 2nd ascent
4. Category 6B
5. Route characteristics: | | | | | :---------------- | :----------------------------------------- | :-------------- | | elevation gain | | 1530 m | | length | | 3800 m |

REPORT

of the Uzbekistan Sports Committee team on the ascent of Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the NNW wall in the high-altitude class program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1979 Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m, the sixth highest peak in the USSR, is located in the Central Pamir in the Yazgulem Range. The peak was first conquered on August 17, 1954, by a team led by A. Ugarov from the east. In the sixties, seven more routes were laid to the peak, one of which was along the left counterfort of the north wall, a kilometer-long sheer wall towering above the Fedchenko Glacier cirque. As early as 1968, photographs of this wall appeared in the team's archives, and we began to study them, examining the future object. In mid-July of this year, the team began transporting supplies to the area of operation. Equipment and provisions were dropped under the wall and at the Abdukagor Pass. The team was deployed, and a base camp was established on the Abdukagor Glacier at an altitude of about 3900 m. Upon distribution of the routes, our team was assigned the central part of the wall. A thorough study of the intended route was conducted, a clear, step-by-step tactical plan for the ascent was drawn up, and several descent options were developed, finalizing the team's composition. The wall is relatively rockfall-prone, and there are practically no places for overnight stays. To pass it mobilly, it was decided to go with one tent for five people. The team consisted of: Putintsev A.V. – captain Gromov L.V. – deputy captain

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — High-altitude 2. Ascent Region — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the center of the NNW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — sixth 5. Route characteristics — height difference: wall — 140 m, route — 1674 m; average wall steepness — 63°; section lengths:

• III — 1200 m,
• IV — 320 m,

Pamir

Peak named after Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya (6974 m) north face (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of Leningrad High-altitude category

Team composition

1. Chunovkin G.A., MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V., MS — deputy captain
3. Balyberdin V.S., CMS — participant
4. Temirov A.M., CMS — participant
5. Nosov A.P., CMS — participant

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Classification 2. Ascent Region 3. Peak, its height 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference, section length, category 6B difficulty, average steepness 6. Pitons driven: rock, ice 7. Number of travel hours

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazgulemsky ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Yazgulem. Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12.
2. Summit name: Peak Rokzou. Route name: from Rokzou Glacier via the serac zone of the southwestern slope.
3. Proposed – category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Elevation gain: 1320 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4400 m. Length of sections:

To the summit from the last overnight stay

1. Geographical Information

Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov is located in the central Pamir in the eastern part of the Yazgulemsky Ridge in the Peak Revolyutsii massif. The average height of the ridge in this area is around 5900 m. The height of the summit is 6420 m (barometrically). The Peak Revolyutsii massif, together with Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov and Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, crowns a grandiose cirque - the 5900 m plateau, the beginning of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. To the south of the summit lies the Khabarvid-Khaya valley, to the east is Peak Sovetskikh Profsoyuzov, and to the west rises the massive Peak Revolyutsii.

2. Possible Ascent Routes

All possible routes to the summit of Peak Sovetskikh Alpinistov start from the 5900 m plateau of the Grumm-Grzhimaylo Glacier. There are three such paths:

1. Ascending from the south via a snow-ice slope to the 6300 m col, from where you can reach the summit via rocks.
2. Ascending to the same col from the north via a snowy slope with bergschrunds.
3. Ascending to the summit via the north-eastern ridge. The route from the Khabarvid-Khaya glacier is the most challenging and dangerous and is hardly passable.

4.12.44.54

Description of the First Ascent of Peak 6150 m

Coleencreux Kosmonavtov.

I. Geographical Information

Peak 6150 m (photo 1 and 2) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Pik Ficker ridge, in the so-called "Southern group of Fedchenko mountains". The slopes of the peak give rise to tributaries of the glaciers:

• Vitkovsky
• Fedchenko To the east of Peak 6150 m lies one of the peaks of Pik Ficker.

4.12 44851 Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the USSR Council of Ministers

Climbing Department

![img-1.jpeg]({"width":565,"height":182,"format":"Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/hIutENbE3ZoiLdcQQ3v6FEeBT8Bipn rXE/img-1.jpeg","id":64770581})

Ascent to the summit of Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" (Helpers)

Peak "Vspomogatelnykh" is located in the southwestern spur of the western ridge of Peak Ficker.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route went along the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obval glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends, and there is a fairly convenient exit onto the ice. The group crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obval glaciers and reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which turns sharply northeast at this point (1 hour). A trail along the moraine (along the stream) leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, the group descended from the moraine of the glacier and moved towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographic) branch of the Abdukagor glacier, divided by a rocky ridge into two parts (30–40 minutes). The icefall was traversed somewhat to the right in the lower part and somewhat to the left in the upper part (in the direction of travel) (1 hour). Above the icefall, three not very steep ascents were traversed, alternating with more gentle sections.

4. Brief Characteristics of the Ascent

4.1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge
3. Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m