Traverse of Zindon 4A

from east through the summit to northwest View from the north from the right Zindon's gorge

ASCENT DESCRIPTION TO THE MARIA PEAK VIA THE NORTHERN RIDGE Approximate 5A category difficulty Class of technically challenging ascents The route was traversed by the LOS SDSO "Burevestnik" team

1. Group Composition

The ascent was made by the LOS SDSO "Burevestnik" group in the following composition:

• SMRCHIK V.L. — leader, 1st sports category
• TIKHVINSKII S.B. — participant, CMS

Mt. Maria, 5B, via North-Eastern Ridge (A. Vakhmenin's route, 78)

Ascent Passport

Ascent category — technical. Ascent area — Fann Mountains, Zarafshan Range. Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Maria, 4970 m, via north-eastern ridge, 5B category of complexity, 3rd ascent of the route. Route characteristics:

• Height difference — 1460 m
• Length of sections with 5–6 category of complexity — 1425 m
• Average steepness of the route — 60°
• Average steepness of the most complex sections — 80–90° Pitons driven: | Pitons driven | For belaying | ITO |

V. Paykhamber, 3B, via Western ridge (A. Lopatko route, '73)

Night stay — at Murtnые lakes or 1 hour higher on the moraines of Lake Paykhamber (there is water), opposite v. Fagitor. From Murtnые lakes, left of v. Fagitor to l. Paykhamber and along it to the snowy saddle between v. Chinal and the 1st gendarme of the western ridge of Paykhamber. Climb the snowy slope (bergschrund!) to the saddle. From Murtnые lakes, 2–2.5 hours. The 1st gendarme is passed on the left via a narrow rock ledge 30 m, then up a steep, crumbling wall 5 m — exit to the ridge and further along the ridge. 2nd gendarme — left along rock ledges on a steep wall, with some overhangs (60 m). 3rd gendarme — to the right of the saddle along an indistinct internal corner 20 m and further along the ridge to the next saddle. 4th gendarme — to the right of the saddle along poorly defined rock ledges 40 m, then traverse to the crevice between the ridge and a rocky spur with a large overhanging rock. Here is a ledge for descent 30 m to a wide, scree-covered saddle between the 4th and 5th gendarmes. From the saddle, traverse the scree slopes to the ridge leading from the 5th gendarme to the "Nizhny" pass on the south side of the Paykhamber ridge. From this lateral ridge, ascend to the main ridge via a scree gully and then along a scree slope — to the saddle between the 5th and 6th gendarmes. Here is a control cairn. From the start of the ascent along the ridge — 4 hours. 6th gendarme — to the right along a vaguely defined internal corner 30 m, then along rock ledges to small walls, up and to the right onto the ridge and then to the saddle before the 7th gendarme. From the control cairn — 1.5–2 hours. 7th gendarme — from the saddle, up and to the right along a steep wall 30 m, into a narrow chimney 5 m (clearly visible). After the chimney, up and to the left along a ledge 10 m, then 10 m up, along a ledge to the right 40 m and 20 m up a crevice.

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v. Polytechnik, 4B, left buttress of the Northwest wall (B. Borisov's route, 78)

Climbing Passport

Climbing type: rock climbing Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height, and ascent route: v. Polytechnik (4400 m), via the North ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics:

• elevation gain — 700 m;

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MT POLITEKHNIK, 4B, 2ND LEFT BUTTRESS OF NORTHWEST FACE (V. DARUGA ROUTE, 79)

ASCENT DOCUMENT

Ascent class: rock Ascent area: Pamir-Alai, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains Peak, its height and ascent route: Mt. Politekhnik (4400 m), via North Ridge Difficulty category: 3B Route characteristics: height difference – 700 m;

Route Description

Ascent to Pik Severny (North Peak) category 3A difficulty 3A, via NW ridge, 4050 m. Pik Severny is located in the eastern part of the massif, situated above the Alaudin pass. The described route initially follows the NW ridge, where the D-3 ridge converges with the wall facing north, forming a protruding angle to the NW. The approach to the route from the Kulikalon lakes takes 2.5-3 hours. After 1-1.5 hours of ascent along the trail leading to the Alaudin pass, one needs to change direction to the right and upwards along the grassy ridge. The starting point of the route is a clearly defined and protruding rocky "peak" at the base of the route. A midpoint landmark on the ridge is the "brick" - a rectangular rocky outcrop; the destination is located to the left of it. From the rocky peak, proceed right and upwards for 1 rope length - alternating belay, using pitons and rock features, to a snowy-icy section. 2 pitons, start of the route at 10:10. Continue to make your way to the "brick" right and upwards. Before reaching 1/3 of the way to the "brick", there is a talus shelf on the right where the first control cairn is located under large stones. To the 1st control cairn, 3 rope lengths. (3 rope lengths, alternating belay, via outcrops, 3 pitons). From the 1st control cairn, proceed left and upwards to 2 large boulders - 1 rope length. From the 2 large boulders, make your way to a chimney with a plug - 1 rope length. (2 rope lengths, alternating belay, piton belay, 3 pitons, via outcrops). From the plug, 2 rope lengths lead to the exit onto the NW ridge. Continue simultaneously along the ridge, with the slope to one side, towards the summit.

• Porshrum on Vetene (with pitch numbers)

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Fan Mountains, Zarafshan Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. URECH, 3400 m, via the Eastern Edge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 500 m, total route length — 790 m, average steepness — 30°
6. Pitons hammered:

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — Rock Climbing 2. Ascent Region — Fann Mountains, northern ridge of the nodal peak Aurondag in the Zeravshan Range 3. Peak — Urech, height — 3400 m, route — via the northeast wall 4. Proposed Difficulty Category — 3B 5. Elevation Gain — 450 m, average steepness — 40° 6. Pitons Hammered: for belaying for creating artificial anchor points