Fig. 7 Fig. 8 27. Doppakh West via Northwest Ridge (I. Leonov's combined route, category 4B difficulty, Fig. 7, 8). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–6 people) to the lower shoulder of the Northwest ridge, the summit of Doppakh West with the initial bivouac at a small kar in the left side of Sugansky Pass under the Southeast rib of Suganbashi is described in route 26. From the shoulder (bivouac possible) approach the First rock uplift of the Northwest ridge and ascend a 15 m inclined plate, then via difficult rocks of a 12 m steep inner corner to this uplift. Along 35–40 m destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the Northwest ridge, approach a vertical wall of a zhendarmer. From under the zhendarmer:

• 15 m descent from the ridge to the left onto a vaguely defined shelf;
• traverse 30 m along the shelf to bypass the zhendarmer.

163. Lekzyr Malaya via North-West ridge (combined route, Cat. III, Fig. 24, 26). From the initial bivouac on the “Morena Lekzyr” sites (point 159) cross the Eastern branch of Lekzyr Glacier (closed crevasses) and ascend on its right side. Pass the lower part of the North-West ridge with gendarmes, turn right, cross the bergschrund, and ascend a steep snow-ice slope (streams) to the North-West ridge of Lekzyr Malaya summit. On the ridge, turn left and follow the icy-snowy North-West ridge (cornices) to approach the snow-covered rocky ascent. Ascend steep snow-covered rocks of the ascent (“live” stones, pitons) — 60–70 m up. Then 100–120 m along the edge of ice and rocks (cornices, belay), then:

169. Lekzyr Severnaya — Lekzyr Yuzhnaya

(combined route, E. Emelyanova, 4A cat. diff., fig. 24, 26). From the summit of Lekzyr Glavnaya (route 165, 166) descend along simple rocky Yuzhny ridge, then along shelves on its right side to the saddle of Yuzhny ridge. From the saddle descend on the left side of the ridge by 3–4 abseils 25–30 m and sport route to a platform. From the platform traverse right along snowy shelves, then along a narrow 20–25-meter couloir (chimney) and steep broken rocks to a platform on the saddle of the massif behind Bolshoy zhendarм. Make a bivouac on the platform. From Glavnaya summit 5–6 hours. From the platform — along simple rocks of the ridge, overcoming small rock towers head-on or

186. Sullukol via the left counterfort of the North face (D. Sukhodolsky's route, cat.4B)

II ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — technically challenging
2. Climbing area according to KTMGV: Caucasus. From Chiperezau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: Treugolnik 3928 m, left buttress of the northern slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 400 m; average steepness — 40°; section lengths:

Tyutyu East - West, combined, 3A

Route Description

The path from the "Dzhailyk" hostel goes along the right side of the Kullukol gorge to the foot of a steep grassy slope, on whose shoulder the "Paradise Campsite" is located. From the "Paradise Campsite", the ascent begins along the moraine until reaching the Western Tyutyu glacier. Crossing the glacier along its central part, we reach the foot of a snowy shoulder located on the eastern slopes of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. We ascend the steep snowy slope to the shoulder (avalanches!!), then along a heavily damaged rocky ridge of medium difficulty, we reach the 5th peak of the Tyutyu-bashi massif. The descent from the 5th peak to the saddle and the ascent to the Main peak go along a sharp snowy ridge (cornices!!). From the Main peak, we descend along monolithic block-type rocks (1.5–2 ropes). Here, there may be flow ice covered with snow. The ascent to the 3rd peak goes along a rocky ridge of medium complexity. It is advisable to move to the left. The descent to the saddle between the 3rd and 2nd peaks goes along snow-covered slabs. On the saddle, there is a gendarme, which is bypassed on the left. Having passed the gendarme, we approach a 6–8 m rock wall, which is climbed using free climbing with piton belay, after which we reach the 2nd peak. Along a wide snowy ridge, we move towards the 1st peak along a snowy slope, bypassing the gendarme on the left, and descend to the Kullumkolsky pass. Having descended from the pass, we reach the Western Tyutyu glacier and, crossing it, we return to the "Paradise Campsite". Time from "Ullu-tau" hostel to "Paradise Campsite" is 1.5–2 hours. From the "Paradise Campsite", the entire traverse takes 14–15 hours.

261. Ullutau East via the Eastern Ridge

(combined route by A. Zolotarev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Mestian Pass is described in route 247. At the pass saddle, turn right and approach the base of the Eastern ridge of the Ullutau massif via a snowy slope. From the plateau, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and reach the Eastern ridge. Follow the boundary between rocks and snow of the straightforward Eastern ridge to approach the first "saw" jendarme. Traverse the "saw" consisting of 4 jendarmes along the destroyed simple and moderately difficult rocks of the Eastern ridge ("loose" stones, belay) and reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend along the straightforward, gentle, long, and occasionally sharp snowy (cornices) Eastern ridge with two rises to a snow dome. From the dome, make a straightforward gentle descent along a wide snowy rocky ridge to a saddle (large cornice). From the saddle, make a steep ascent along rocks alternating with sharp snowy ridges to the Vzlet jendarme. From it, follow the sharp snowy (cornices) straightforward Eastern ridge to approach the "saw". The second "saw" is traversed along a ridge of numerous small jendarmes, exiting below the Ogurtsy jendarmes, which are bypassed on the left along steep, moderately and more than moderately difficult destroyed rocks (belay), and then ascend along a couloir to a wide snowy saddle of the Eastern ridge below the rocky wall of the Eastern shoulder. The bivouac is on the saddle. From the Mestian Pass, it takes 4-8 hours.

276. Ullutau Western — Eastern

(combined route by L. Nadezhdin, 4A cat. dif., fig. 18, 30). The path from the Ullutau alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Ullutau Western is described in route 272. From the summit of Ullutau Western:

• down the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge,
• then down 15 m steep rocks and 10 m slabs to a snowy saddle. Beyond the saddle:
• along a narrow ledge on the right side of the ridge (overhanging rocks, loose stones),
• up a 10 m wall of medium difficulty with a crack to reach the ridge of the massif. Along the easy ridge, reach the 2nd Western pinnacle-summit. From the pinnacle-summit, descend down slabs and steep rocks to an icy-snowy saddle. Then, along simple rocks of the ridge, passing a 10-meter sharp crest, approach the Main Pinnacle, which is bypassed via difficult slabs on the left. Further along the heavily serrated ridge of medium and above medium difficulty, approach the Red Pinnacle.

Chegem via the western ridge, combined, 3A

Route description:

We ascend to the Donkin pass along the snowy slope, followed by an ascent to the snowy pad of the northern ridge of the Kickhadar peak. The ascent leading to the Chegem peak begins from the pad. The ridge is characterized by a large number of gendarmes. The general direction is from west to east. The first four gendarmes are easily bypassed on the right. Move simultaneously with protection through the ledges, then exit to a platform, descend 10–15 m along the internal corner to the saddle between the gendarmes. There are two possible path options further: I. Bypass the main rock mass along the ledges 1.5–2 ropes below the ridge. II. Move along the ridge, overcoming the gendarmes head-on. Moving along the ridge, we come to the gendarmes with a saddle, deviating slightly to the left along the edge of the snow. The first one goes up to the crack, standing on the partner's shoulders. Secures the rope on which the rest climb. Further movement along the ridge with simultaneous protection to a smooth 3 m wall, with a narrow crack into which you can hammer pitons, but you can bypass the wall along the gap on the left. The movement continues:

• Again, simultaneous movement along the ridge,

Fig. 32