Vlk. Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B cat. diff., ridge, S. Grinkevich, 1966.

The approach to the route is from the Upper Hut, along the right side of the Kozelsky Glacier. Then, across the center of the glacier, exit onto the plateau. Cross the plateau in the middle towards the beginning of the NW ridge (see photo). Access to it is in the lower part, under the rocks, via a steep ascent. This section of the approach takes 5 hours. Ascent to a wide snowy ridge covered with frozen coarse slag. Movement along the ridge:

• in groups, everywhere simultaneous,
• all gendarmes are bypassed on the right side,
• the ridge on both sides is cut off by steep slopes and couloirs. After the last two "gendarmes," the ridge becomes gentler but narrower. Exit to a cirque

Prot. No. 312 dated 17/X-70

Description of the ascent to the "Tooth" of Kozel'skiy volcano via the Western ridge, category 2A difficulty.

1. General description of the summit and its location.

Kozel'skaya sopka is part of the Avachinskaya group of volcanoes, located in the eastern part of the Kekhur ridge. The absolute height of Kozel'skaya sopka above sea level is 2210 m. It is an extinct volcano. Its slopes are composed of basalt and diabase. The slopes are generally gentle and mostly covered with a thick layer of slag. In the summer months, the pre-summit ridge is cleared of snow, exposing several gendarmes. However, snow persists on the slopes, even on the southern ones, throughout the summer. The northern slopes of the sopka are the walls of a large ancient crater, covered with ice and firn. These walls are densely strewn with basaltic "rock fingers". The volcano has three peaks:

• Western,
• Central,
• Eastern. The highest peak is the Eastern one, which is a rocky "tooth" rising 50 m above the general massif. The walls of the "tooth" are sheer on all sides. There is a non-wall passage along the south-eastern ridge (category 1B difficulty route). A glacier is located on the western side of the sopka (the glacier serves as a boundary between Avachinskiy and Kozel'skiy volcanoes), from which the Kozel'skiy stream flows. The foot of the volcano is heavily dissected by ravines. On the eastern side of the foot, there are quarries of construction organizations developing slag.

2. Approach to the ascent location.

Ascending the summit of Klyuchevskaya Sopka from the west 2A cat. difficulty

Description

Klyuchevskoy volcano is the largest active volcano in Asia and the highest point in the RSFSR. Its height is 4750 m. The volcano has a regular conical shape with slopes of 35–40°. This volcano is still actively erupting. If you reach the summit during weak emissions from the vent, you can stay there overnight and witness an amazing spectacle. Above the crater, there is a fiery glow and fountains of sparks. The crater walls are 350–400 m high. To the north, the height decreases to 200 m. There are cracks along the entire perimeter of the crater:

• From the north, the crack reaches the bottom of the crater.
• You can enter the crater through the northern crack, but it involves certain risks. On the southern side, there is a crack with a depth of up to 25 m. On its left slope is the highest point of the summit — along the ascent route, there is a cairn with a note and an ice axe driven in. The ascent to Klyuchevskoy volcano is technically not difficult, but due to frequent and prolonged rockfalls, it requires great attention. The entire ascent must be done in teams with simultaneous belaying.

1. Approach to the starting point of the ascent

Vlk. Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. 3682 m through Plos­kiy from the north, 2B cat. dif., (A. Be­re­zin, 1965)

From the base camp, located in the valley of the Stu­de­na­ya river, the approach to the beginning of the ridge of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik along alpine meadows takes 2 hours. At the foot of the ridge begins a large and medium scree, along them along the glacier - the exit to the beginning of the ascent (see photo). The ridge is a wide lava flow, covered with firn and ice, passed simultaneously in rope teams. Before reaching the summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano, the slope steepness increases to 35°, and there are many open crevasses (Bergschrunds); all crevasses are overcome by snow bridges. The summit of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik is a snow-firn plateau three kilometers long, with a huge crater in the western part, 1800 m by 1500 m in diameter. Along the plateau in the western direction - the exit to the edge of the crater. The ascent time for this section of Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik volcano is 5-6 hours. Crossing the plateau in the direction of the snowy ridge, one and a half kilometers long, with a steepness of 35-40°, leads to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik. Passing the ridge is done simultaneously in rope teams. The ascent from Plos­kiy Tol­ba­chik to the summit of Os­t­ry Tol­ba­chik takes 1.5-2 hours. The summit is a snow dome, from which icefalls descend to the north and south. The total ascent time is 8-9 hours. Descent from the summit:

• along the ascent route;
• it is possible to descend directly from the summit along the 2B route - the northern slope.

ASCENT DESCRIPTION FOR TOLBACHIK OSTRY VIA NORTH-WEST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B

The volcanoes Tolbachik Ostry and Tolbachik Plosky have glaciated peaks with glaciers descending to 1000–1100 m above sea level. Routes to the summit of Tolbachik Ostry go via snow and ice slopes, and only from the south and south-east, rocky ridges lead to the summit, which fall short by 150–200 m. On all other sides, the ridges terminate at heights of 1600–2100 m. The summit of Tolbachik Ostry is not clearly defined, and only in summer months can the highest point of the snowy ridge, resembling a pyramid, be identified. The following glaciers are identified on the Ostry and Plosky Tolbachik massifs:

• Number: 11
• Total area: 26.1 km² The approach to the western and north-eastern routes follows the same path and diverges at the depression of the north-west ridge. Those heading to the western ridge must descend into the valley.

Approach to the Climbing Site

From the shepherds' hut, built on a wide clearing at a height of 800 m, follow the riverbed to the Neizvestny stream, and then along the stream until the end of the bushes. After that, a stream flowing into it from the right will be encountered. Turn into this stream. About 600 meters later, it cuts into the right ridge along the ascent route and forms a narrow gorge, which should be followed. Continue along the gorge for 1.5–2 hours. It leads to a plateau. Cross the plateau in a southerly direction until it is divided by a stream flowing south. Follow the stream and it will lead to the left slope, transitioning into a destroyed rocky ridge running in a north-westerly direction. Time required to approach the ridge: 4–5 hours from the shepherds' hut. Elevation at this point: 1500 m.

Route Description by Sections

Individual ice seracs reach 50–550. The snow is not deep — 30–40 cm, but it lies on a firn cushion. Movement with alternating belay through ice axe. In the upper part, before reaching the pre-summit ridge:

• the slope is more gentle
• simultaneous movement On the ridge leading to the summit, there are a number of snow seracs. The steepness of these seracs is 60–65°. The seracs drop off with sheer walls to the west, and to the east, they slope down with steep snow-ice slopes. The snow is fluffy and deep. It takes a long time to stamp out footholds. The exit to the summit is along a sharp rocky-snowy edge. A cairn is built 3–4 m below the highest point on the last rocky outcrop. The time taken to move from the highest point of the wall from the overnight stop to the summit is 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit is along the eastern ridge to the "stockade", which is bypassed on the right, following the path, with an exit onto a snowy ridge that goes across the main ridge leading to the summit of 5050 m. There is a place to spend the night in a characteristic hollow. On the summit of 5050 m, a 4th control cairn is built. The time taken to move from the summit of 5285 m to 5050 m is 1.5–2.0 hours. The descent from the summit of 5050 m is along a snowy edge — a "needle" — to the north. The edge is very sharp and dense, 10–15 cm wide. To the left, there is a steep slope with dense firn; to the right, there is deep snow that gives way underfoot. Descent along the "needle" to the rocky outcrops:

Route Description

Ascent to peak "5812" via the western ridge

Cat. difficulty 2B

Day 1

Departure at 15:00 from the base camp located at an altitude of 4200 m below the tongue of the Oktyabrsky glacier on the right orographic side of the valley. On the way to the foot of the peak, two branches of the Kok-Sai River are forded. The duration of the path to the foot is about 1 hour. The path to the summit begins along the gully of a stream flowing from a snowfield located in the cirque between the S and W ridges. The slope is 10°–15°. Further, the path goes along a slope of 30°–35° towards the S counterfort of the W ridge. The slope is covered with medium-sized scree. The overnight camping spot is chosen at an altitude of about 4800 m on the S slope of the W ridge, where a campsite can be set up with a small amount of labor and there are snowfields to fetch water. The duration of the path from the base camp to the overnight camping spot is 3.5–4 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash gorge, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Unnamed peak 4825 m, proposed name — Aleksey Didurov Peak, named after the famous Russian poet, via the North face and North-East ridge. Peak coordinates: 39.454557 72.957681, GPS altitude 4834 m. No cairn or note was found on the summit. Information about previous ascents is not available.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.
5. Route elevation gain: 530 m according to GPS. Route length: 850 m. Section lengths:
   • Category V — 0 m.
   • Category VI — 0 m.

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE PAMYATI ZHENSKOY SBORNOY PEAK VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE ROUTE, CATEGORY 2B, BY THE ASIA OUTDOOR GUIDING TEAM ON AUGUST 9, 2019

2020 I. Ascent Passport

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Inozemtsev Eduard Borisovich, 1st sports rank.
1.2	Full name, sports rank of the participants	Sokhatsky Alexander Ivanovich, 2nd sports rank.
1.3	Full name of the coach	Suviga Vladimir Ivanovich.
1.4	Organization	Asia Outdoor company
5.1	Full name, e-mail	Inozemtsev Eduard Borisovich, inozemtsev.edik@yandex.ru
2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Report

on the first ascent to the summit 3310 m (300 years of the RAS) via the Western slope, category 2A, by the group from the "Shkhelda" alpine camp on July 5, 2023

I. Climbing Report Form

№	1. General Information
1.1	Full name, sports rank of the leader	Korolev Alexander Viktorovich, CMS
1.2	Full names, sports ranks of the participants	1. Belousov Alexey Georgievich, 3rd sports rank 2. Nikitin Andrey Borisovich, CMS
1.3	Full name of the coach	Korolev Alexander Viktorovich
1.4	Organization	LLC "Shkhelda" (alpine camp "Shkhelda")
	2. Characteristics of the Climb