142. Bashkara via North-Eastern Ridge (E. Ivanov's route, cat. 3B) The path from the Djantugan alpbase (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac on the Djantugan pass is described in route 146. From the pass, depart (at 3:00-4:00 am) to the Djantugan plateau. Traverse around the Djantugan peak from the left and exit to the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara below the last (left) gentle snowy slope descending from the ridge saddle, which connects the Bashkara peak on the left and the Djantugan peak on the right. Turn right from the plateau and, having overcome the bergschrund, ascend directly up the gentle snowy, then scree slope. Further, ascend via easy, broken rocks, leaving the gendarme-connectors on the right, to the rocks of the North-Eastern ridge of Bashkara. 1-1.5 hours from the bivouac. When exiting onto the ridge, bypass the gendarme-connector on the left via easy, broken rocks (belay!). From the exit point to the ridge, turn left and move 50-60 m up via easy, broken rocks on the left side of the ridge, then across a short snowy connector below the rock ascent wall. Ascend 30 meters straight up the wall of medium difficulty to a ledge and traverse 10 m left along it. From there, ascend up-right 20-25 m via rocks of medium difficulty, then via easier and more broken rocks to the ridge (pitons for belay on the ascent wall!).

Bashkara — Gadyl traverse, cat. 4A, K. Agger route, I4

From the "Green Hotel" we move along the Jankuat glacier in the direction of the Jantugan plateau and the pass located between the Aristov rocks and the ridge of the Jantugan peak. By-passing the bergschrund on the left, we reach the Jantugan plateau. From the bivouac site, the path to the peak goes southwest across the plateau in the direction of the N-E ridge of Bashkara. At the last slope descending from this ridge (further up, a sheer wall of the Bashkara massif rises), they cross the bergschrund and go along the talus with rocks protruding from it. The "gendarme" is bypassed on the left along easy rocks. Having reached the ridge, you need to pass a small snow bridge that leads directly to the rather steep rocks of the ridge leading to the summit. Without reaching the ridge itself, but sticking to its left side, you need to overcome a number of crevices and chimneys along fairly strong rocks (pitch). Having passed this first stage, they overcome the second, easier belt of rocks, sticking to the left side of the ridge all the way to the summit. The tower encountered on the way is bypassed on the left. Above it lies a small snowpatch, which must be crossed near the rocks. Having gone 20 meters, they turn onto the rocks and reach a small depression that separates the Bashkara peak into two parts:

• The first part is the northern one, which is the highest point of the peak.
• From the lowest point of the peak - the southern one - the ridge goes to the Gadyl peak. The ascent from the bivouac on the Jantugan plateau to the summit takes 9-10 hours. From the Bashkara summit, the path goes to the left along the ridge in the direction of the Gadyl peak. There are a large number of "gendarmeries" on the ridge:
• The 1st is taken head-on,
• The 2nd is bypassed on the right.

158. Viatau via the South Couloir and West Ridge (Category I-b route, Fig. 23, 33).

The path from the “Jantugan” alpine camp to the “Green Hotel” is described in route 146. From the “Green Hotel”, ascend along the Adylsu gorge, then reach the Jankuat Glacier and move up along it, keeping to its left side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the left-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue ascending along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the West Ridge of Viatau Peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the West Ridge. Initially, the slope is grassy, then it becomes covered with fine and later coarse scree, leading to a wide snowy scree-filled couloir descending south from the West Ridge of Viatau Peak. Here, turn left and ascend along the snowy scree and simple rocks of the wide snowy couloir until you reach the West Ridge of the peak. From here:

• Continue to the right along the simple, destroyed, and partially snowy rocks of the ridge.
• In the upper section, keep to the right side (“live” rocks!).
• Ascend to the summit of Viatau. From the “Green Hotel”, the ascent takes 5–6 hours. Descend via the ascent route. The total duration of the route is 2 days.

Via-tau 2A category via the North ridge

Ascent from the Kod-avgan-aush glacier pass with descent via the ascent route or Category 1B route. Day 1. From the Dmantugan alpine camp, follow the trail along the Adylsu river to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa (Green Inn). Follow the lateral moraine to the Dmankuat glacier, crossing it in the lower part from right to left. Ascend to the right-bank moraine, which has pockets with flat areas and water. Overnight stay. Day 2. From the overnight stay, ascend via the grassy slope and talus to the Kod-avgan-aush glacier, where there are also flat areas on the talus for overnight stays. Via the clay talus, which may be snow-covered at the beginning of summer, ascend to the Kodavvaganaush Lozn pass. The actual pass remains on the left on the ridge. From the false pass, move right along the ridge. After two elevations, the ridge begins to rise. The rock character is slabby (peg страховка). Continue along the несложному ridge to the summit. Descent from the summit via the ascent route or via the Category 1B route. On the Irne-Ivle ridge, there are large cornices and overhanging rocks, making the ascent very challenging. The ridge ascent at this time is done on the left via the rocks (via подкам), where there are many loose stones.

2622

Traverse of Viatau from northeast to northwest, ~Category II route

From the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the right (orographic) bank of the Adyl-su River, then cross to its left bank via a bridge. Follow the trail along the left bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing. This is the initial bivouac site. The journey from the "Dzhangutugan" alpine camp takes approximately 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," access the Dzhankuat Glacier and move upwards along it, sticking to its right side. After 350–400 m, turn left and ascend to the right-bank moraine at its lowest point. Continue the ascent along the moraine. Having passed the foot of the Western ridge of Viatau peak, turn left, descend from the moraine, and ascend along the southern slopes of the Western ridge:

• initially along a grassy slope,
• then across small scree,
• followed by large scree,
• bypassing the base of the broad scree-filled Southern couloir (used by the Category I route),
• continue along the scree at the base of the southeastern horizontal ridge to the right of Viatau peak (refer to Fig. I and Photo I).

Report

On the ascent to the peak 3858° via the North Ridge, made by the group a/l "Baksan" in the period from July 15–16, 1975, consisting of:

• Bodizhevsky V.K. — leader, Master of Sports of the USSR
• Ufimtsev V.D. — participant, 1st sports category
• Kovtun N.P. — participant, 1st sports category
• Kruk I.P. — participant, 1st sports category

Description of the route

From the Azau meadow through the canyon, exit to the final lateral moraine of the tongue of the Bolshoi Azau glacier. Climb up the moraine to the glacier, cross it upwards to the left, and exit to the scree to the "Sand Hotel" below the Chipper-Azaou glacier — to the left of the Bolshoi Azau glacier.

п.­ Volnaya Ispania — в.­ Vjedukh. 4А cat.­ diff., traverse, to route 3. Nefedova, 47 The exit to the traverse of п.­ Volnaya Ispania starts with the approach via the normal route to пер.­ Kashka-Tash. The first overnight stay is at the pass. (From AUSV “Dzhantugan” — 6–7 hours). From the pass, ascend a steep icy slope, partially covered with snow (2 hours). After crossing the ice slope, continue along the rocky ridge to the summit. Initially, the path traverses несложным скалам (easy rocks), followed by a snowy ridge where simultaneous movement is possible, requiring careful attention to avoid cornices hanging towards the Kashka-Tash glacier. The first major жандарм (boulder) is bypassed on the right (in the direction of travel), the second — on the left. The rocks along the bypass route are loose. Beyond the жандармы, a significant descent follows, succeeded by a fairly steep ascent up the snowy ridge. This ascent leads to a paired базальтовому жандарму (basalt boulder), ascended directly along the ridge. The descent from it involves a 5–6 m abseil. Immediately beyond the basalt жандарм, after a short narrow saddle with a snowy cornice to the north, begins the “ascent” to the предвершинный гребень (pre-summit ridge) of the “Gogol” жандарм. The ascent is from the left side of the жандарм, exiting onto the ridge just below the highest point. The rocks are difficult, quite brittle, with плитами (slabs), зацепками (holds), and полочками (ledges) of черепичного характера (a tiled nature, facing downwards), averaging 65° steepness. The ascent from the saddle to the top of the жандарм (about 60 m) takes 3 hours. In total, from the pass — 12–13 hours of work. An overnight stay is possible somewhat below the upper жандарм.

144. Gadyl via the Eastern ridge (O. Aristov's route, Cat. 3A). The path from the "Jantugan" alpine camp (group of 4-5 people) to the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky with the initial bivouac on the rocks of the Jantugan Pass is described in route 146. From the summit of Lekzyr-Jantugansky, descend westward along the snowy, then rocky ridge under the rocky tower of the 1st gendarme of the long horizontal snow-covered rocky Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Traverse the tower via the snowy slopes (belay!) on the left. Further along the long rocky-snowy ridge (overhanging cornices!), both gendarmes on it are traversed on the left, and exit under the rocky-snowy ascent of the Eastern ridge of Gadyl summit. Via the snow-covered rocks

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;