Peak Nikolaev

Peak Nikolaev (3815 m) is named in memory of the mountaineer Nikolai Nikolaev. It is located in the eastern spur of the Mamison vertex, dividing the upper reaches of the Tsey Glacier into:

• Southern branch;
• Northern branch. Above the spur, the peak rises with a small rocky pyramid, from which a panorama of the peaks of almost the entire Tsey region opens.

193. Peak Nikolaev via the southern slope, 1B category of difficulty (B. Kizel, B. Aleynik, July 24, 1934). The path from the KSP Tsey region to the initial bivouac in the hut on the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in route 83. From the hut, descend to the glacier and along its right side approach the second wide snowy couloir descending onto the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier from the right. Here, turn right and ascend via the wide, gently sloping snowy couloir to the left side of the rocky cape protruding in the center of the couloir under the southern slopes of Peak Nikolaev. Bypass the rocky wall of the cape from the left along a steep snowy slope (protection). From it, exit to the right onto a wide balcony above the rocky cape (ice axe platforms) with a snowy slope — under the southern walls of the peak (leave ice axes on the platforms).

Passionaria

The Passionaria peak (4000 m) is located in the central part of the Kalper ridge, between Vilsa peak to the northeast and Moskvich to the southwest. To the south, into the Kassar gorge, Passionaria has relatively gentle, heavily destroyed slopes with numerous couloirs, where no ascents have been made. Routes to the summit are only laid from the Tsey gorge. First ascenders:

• N. Tarasenko
• D. Donskoy
• P. Kurilov
• V. Sotnikov Reached Passionaria on August 5, 1934, while traversing the ridge from Lagau to Vilsa.

217. Passionaria from the west via the couloir and southwest ridge, Category III difficulty (E. Stroganov, E. Voskresenskaya et al., August 12, 1947). From the KSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people, departure at 3:00 AM due to avalanches and rockfalls in the couloirs) follow the trail on the left bank of the Skazdon river to approach the "Green Hill" of the left-bank moraine of the Skazgsky glacier. Bypass the "Green Hill" from the left. Then turn left and move up along the stream to the "Gates" of the wide snowy western couloir descending from the saddle of the Kalper ridge between Passionaria on the left and Moskvich on the right. By passing a huge sharp rock standing in the center of the entrance to the couloir, approach the rocky platforms on the right side of the lower part of the couloir along the right side of the wide snowy western couloir (avalanches and rockfalls are possible).

Route on the Left Buttress and Central Edge of the Eastern Wall of Sonuti

“The route is combined, category 4B difficulty.” The path from the KSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac at the Volginsky nochyovki. From the Volginsky nochyovki, “depart at 3–4 am due to rockfall in the lower part of the route,” cross the snowy plateau of the Uilpatinsky glacier to the left and upwards towards the Left Buttress of the Eastern wall of Sonuti peak. To the left of the buttress, there are ice collapses at the top. From the plateau, after passing the bergschrund, ascend a steep snowy-ice slope “possible ice collapse” to the rocks of the Left Buttress. From here, straight up through 120 meters of simple, heavily destroyed, snow-covered rocks. Then, ascend 150 m through steep, moderately difficult, destroyed rocks of the Left Buttress to the first rocky islands in the right ice-snow couloir descending from the saddle with a small lake on the Southwest ridge from under the wall of the South tower of Sonuti. Further, traverse to the right “pitons for protection” through the ice-snow couloir “rockfall, avalanches,” then through moderately difficult rocks of the Left Edge of the Eastern wall of Sonuti. After passing a platform, through monolithic rocks, approach the second steep ice couloir and traverse to the right and upwards through this couloir “possible rockfall” to the rocks on the left side of the Central Edge of the Eastern wall. Through monolithic rocks of medium and above-medium difficulty on the left side of the Central Edge, ascend 150 m “pitons for protection” to a platform. From the Volginsky nochyovki, 6–8 hours. From the platform, 150 m through medium and above-medium difficulty rocks with numerous holds on the left side of the Central Edge “pitons for protection” upwards to a shoulder. From the shoulder, across a sharp snowy ridge, move left to the rocks on the right side of the Left Edge.

The path from the Tsey district CSP or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the sites of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 3:00–4:00 am due to avalanche danger), from the snow plateau (closed crevasses) bypass Bivouachnaya peak from the left (from the north), and behind it approach the North-west edge of Uilpata peak. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, approach the rocks of the North-west edge along a steep ice-and-snow 100–120-meter slope. Up a steep ice slope on the right side of the rocks of the North-west edge 350–400 m straight up (pitons belay). Before the ice rise, exit left onto the rocks of the North-west edge. Up 40 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the edge to the rock rise, then up 40-meter rise with rocks of above medium difficulty («live» stones — pitons belay) — ascent to the talus sites. From the sites, along the rocks of medium difficulty of the edge, approach the wall, which is bypassed on the right along a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitons belay). Then up a steep 200-meter ice-and-snow North-west edge (pitons belay) — ascent to the summit ridge and along it (cornices) — exit to the summit of Uilpata.

I35. Ularg via the Northwest Counterfort

(combined route, 5A category of difficulty) The path from the base camp on the Songuti River or from the Ceysky district KSP to the initial bivouac on the rocky ledges under the North wall of Ularg peak. From the ledges, along the snowy slope of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the left side of the Northwest counterfort of Ularg peak. From the glacier, crossing the bergschrund via a snow bridge, ascend the 80-meter ice-and-snow slope to the rocks on the left side of the Northwest counterfort, 40 m to the left and above its rocky base. Along smooth slabs with a limited number of holds, steep, partially icy rocks of medium difficulty with a 10-meter wall of above-average difficulty above, then along heavily broken simple and medium-difficulty shelves and rocks — "live" stones 60–80 m up and to the right along the left side of the Northwest counterfort. Then traverse 40 m to the right, bypassing the "reddish" gendarme, to the right side of the Northwest counterfort. Along steep rocks of above-average difficulty on the right side of the counterfort, ascend 40 m to a narrow couloir. Up the difficult rocks of the vertical narrow couloir 80 m to a scree shelf on its right side. — The key point of the route, possible rockfalls, falling ice fragments — Along a snowy, scree-sloping shelf 40 m up and to the right. From the end of the shelf, ascend along difficult rocks with a small number of holds, a 60–70-meter wall with a shelf in the middle part. Further:

• along rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along the boundary of ice and rocks, exit to an inclined shelf crossing the Northwest counterfort.

Fig. 27 112. Peak TsDSA (4477 m) via North Ridge (route is combined, cat. 2B, fig. 27). The path from the CSP of Tsey area or from the village Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the saddle of Uilpatinsky Pass with initial bivouacs on the platforms of the Western Ridge of Bivouachnaya Peak or in the hut of the Southern branch of Tsey Glacier is described in the routes:

• 83
• 103

Fig. 40 205. Chanchakhi (4461 m) via the South Ridge (a combined route, M. Zvezdin, category 4A). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (a group of 4-8 people) to the Tsey-Tbilisi pass with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Northern branch of the Tsey glacier under the pass is described in the routes:

• 83
• 124 From the pass, descend first along simple rocks, then along a snowy slope, and through the bergschrund, exit to the upper snowy plateau of the Tbiliza glacier. Along the glacier, having passed a little to the left and down, turn left and, overcoming the bergschrund, exit to the right side of the wide ice-and-snow southwestern slope of the South Ridge of Chanchakhi peak. Along the steep slope, adhering to small right rocky islands, 400-500 m up to the South ice-and-snow ridge (possible rockfall, avalanches - piton belay). Here, turn left and along the ice-and-snow ridge (cornices) approach under the rocky ascent of the summit tower. Along a narrow rocky, above medium difficulty, vertical corner-chimney ("live" stones - piton belay) the ascent is 25-30 m to the wall. Further:
• first along steep 50-60-meter rocks of medium difficulty,
• then along simple rocks of the South Ridge - ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi.

ASCENT FORM

1. Technical Climbing Category
2. Caucasus, Tsey Region
3. Chanchakhi Peak (4420 m) via North-East Face
4. Complexity Category - 5B, combined, third ascent
5. Height difference - 620 m, length - 810 m, length of sections with 5B-6 complexity category - 420 m average steepness of the main part of the route (3800–4420) - 60° of which 6 complexity category (4000–4225) - 80°

REPORT

on the ascent to the summit of Chanchaqi of 6B category complexity by the group from the Taganrog and Rostov DSO "TRUD" led by Ruzhevsky V.V. Taganrog, 1970

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the route

The summit of Chanchaqi is located in the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus between the Tsey-Tbilisi pass and the summit of Mamison-Khokh. The height of the summit is 4420 meters above sea level. Among the classified routes to the summit of Chanchaqi, the simplest path is from the Tsey-Tbilisi pass, category 4B complexity. The most interesting from an alpinist's point of view is the north face. Here, there are routes of 5B and 6B category complexity. The 6B category complexity route was first ascended in 1968 by a group led by Popov, which received silver medals at the 1968 USSR championship for this ascent. In the 1970 season, this route was ascended by a group from the "Alibek" alpine camp, also participating in the USSR championship, and by a group from the Rostov Regional Council of DSO "TRUD".

Ascent conditions

In the second half of August, the Tsey region of the Eastern Caucasus is characterized by unstable weather. Typically, the first half of the day is sunny, which then changes abruptly, and by the second half of the day, precipitation often occurs. A peculiarity of Chanchaqi's microclimate is the constant wind, likely caused by the movement of warm air masses from the low-lying areas of Georgia to the higher and colder areas of North Ossetia. All the above is reflected in the relief of this mountain. Sharp temperature changes, wind erosion, and frequent precipitation result in formed ice, steep ice slopes, and islands on the wall, destroyed rocks, and its main hazard - a multitude of "live" stones.

Fig. 26

2. Tra­verse of Sofru­dzhu peak from the north-east — category 2B (fig. 26)

From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana across the bridge over the Ali­bek river and along the trail to the crossing over the Ama­nauz river. Crossing to the right bank, then along the mo­rena and over the "baa­ran­y lby" to the Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier, and along it to the ter­mi­nal mo­rena under the Zapad­no-Ama­nauz­sky gla­cier. Camping site. From Domba­y­skaya Poly­ana — 3–4 hours. Further (in con­nec­tion!) as­cend to the Ama­nauz pass be­tween the peaks Glav­ny Ama­nauz and Sofru­dzhu. As­cend along the right side of the heav­ily cre­vassed gla­cier, then, in the up­per part, un­der the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub exit to the mid­dle of the gla­cier, as snow ava­lanch­es are pos­si­ble from the slopes of Sofru­dzhu Zub. Along the mid­dle of the gla­cier up to the bergschrund, cross the bergschrund over a snow bridge and up the steep snow slope (50°) to the pass. Exit to the pass to the left of the rocky out­crop at the pass point.