8. Шлем from the south, route 4A category, fig. 4.

From the base camp (no later than 4 hours) up Siamese by moraines, and then, turning right, exit to the circus of the Bolshoy Siamy glacier. The further path goes to the ridge connecting the peaks Шлем and Медвежий Замок. Ascend to the saddle over scree and snow. Control tour. From the saddle over scree on the right, exit to an indistinct ridge and over slabs to a wall 4 m high and up to 12 m wide. The wall is overcome on its right part. Piton belay, climbing is difficult. Above the wall is a ledge, along which go to its end on the left under the next wall 2 m high. Behind the wall, cross the couloir along the ledge and exit onto inclined slabs of the ridge. Fig. 4. Move along the ridge for about 100 m with alternating belay until the ridge dips. Descend into the dip on a rope. Further movement is on the left side of the ridge over slabs. After 100–120 m, exit to a saddle under the summit wall. The wall is about 100 m high. The first 10 m of the wall from the saddle are climbed vertically upwards. The rock is difficult. Then move left and up along ledges to the base of a cleft, which is used to overcome the rest of the wall. At the top, the cleft leads to a wide (10–15 m) ledge with scree. On the entire wall, the belay is piton. From the ledge, move right and up a wide cleft (in the lower part, a chimney). The cleft leads to inclined slabs and scree of the summit dome. Descend from the summit via the ascent route. On the wall, re-rope and pull out the rope. The ascent takes 12–14 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: rock
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan Range, Fann Mountains
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak Alaudin (4237 m) via the southern counterfort.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 3–6
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 800 m; average steepness – 60°; section lengths: I – 110 m; II – 285 m; III – 240 m; IV – 55 m; V – 17 m; VI – 0 m.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying for creating intermediate anchors rock – 22, ice – 0, bolt – 0
7. Number of climbing hours: 7 hours.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: —

On simple rocks, 60 m straight up to the first control cairn in a rope team. From the cairn, on black monolithic rocks of medium difficulty, 80 m straight up to the base of a pronounced inner corner. Then:

• 40 m to the right of the corner on rocks of above average difficulty;
• then bypassing a black-rigid spall on the right;
• exit to the ridge of the buttress. Protection is by pitons. Further along the left side of the ridge:
• 40 m on rocks of medium difficulty;
• 80 m on easy rocks — exit left under a 10-meter chimney. After the chimney — move right into an inner corner and 40 m of climbing of medium difficulty — exit to the ridge of the buttress under a gendarme with a red rock on it.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Fann Mountains.
3. Peak Rudaki, 4400 m, via the East wall.
4. Difficulty category — 5B.
5. Pitons used: rock — 32, bolt — 0, chocks — 31.
6. Climbing hours — 15, days — 1.
7. Leader — RAIL GALEEV — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: ALEXANDER MIROSHKIN — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR TELITCYNS — 1st sports category, VLADIMIR RUSINOV — 1st sports category.
8. Coach — EVGENY MIROSHKIN.

The arch is located to the right and above (I50 m) of the cave. There is a control tour on the arch. The exit from the cave to the right seems easier, but having passed a relatively simple rope, one has to overcome three ropes of difficult climbing with an exit to the same main arch. The right variant of the exit from the cave is more complicated than the left one. From the control tour upwards along grey rocks with black streaks and further along the system of shelves and rocks of medium difficulty to the left and upwards to the grey-yellow rock protruding from the wall (three ropes from the tour). From the arch between the wall and the grey-yellow rock

• ascent upwards along the inner corner with a slight overhang in the upper part. Further:

ASCENT REPORT

(second passage of the route)

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Pamir-Alai, Ak-Su valley.
3. Maly Iskander peak (4520 m) via the North-East face
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, rock
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 800 m length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 435 m length of sections with 6th cat. diff. — 30 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alai, Turkestan Range
3. Peak (its height, route) — T. Sadykov Peak 4432 m via N.E. ridge
4. Expected category — 2B (rocky terrain)
5. Route characteristics Height difference 600 m, total route length 1100 m, average slope 35°
6. Number of travel hours — 5 hours
7. Number of protection pitons — 2
8. Number of overnight stays — none

Ascent Log

I. Ascent type — rock 2. Ascent area — Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Ridge 3. Peak Asan (4230 m) — via the "mirror" of the NW wall. Category IIIV 5.4. 4. Estimated difficulty category — 6B, first ascent 5. Height difference — 830 m of which: wall — 780 m Total length — 1120 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1020 m of which: 6th category — 845 m (3400–3680, 3720–3940, 3990–4110, 4140–4180)

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing
2. Pamir-Alay, Turkestan Range, Karavshin valley
3. Peak Asan, 4204 m
4. Second ascent, 6B category difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 865 m, length — 1075 m Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 975 m, including 6B category difficulty — 830 m. Average slope of the route (3340–4204) — 77°. Average slope of the wall section of the route (3340–4120) — 80°.
6. Pitons hammered in | Rock | Chocks | Bolt | Ice | | :--: | :---: | :--: | :-: |

Mayakovsky 4A cat. via South-Eastern wall (Savukhin's route)

Route description. The approach to the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky is through Ordzhonikidze or Antikainen passes. Special attention should be paid to the descent from Antikainen pass down a steep snowy slope. When moving, strictly stick to the middle of the slope (rockfall). Go around the massif of Antikainen peak and Отечественной Войны peak, reach the South-Eastern wall of peak Mayakovsky. Initial bivouac is on the moraine of the Eastern Ordzhonikidze glacier. To study the rockfall regime, spend two days under the south-eastern wall. Start the ascent very early. The ascent to the wall is via easy rocks, alternating with talus. Then there is a section of slabs with a steepness of 25–30° (first control point), which lead directly to the foot of the south-eastern wall of the peak. At the first stage, move along a vaguely expressed crevice, the walls of which are monolithic, with a steepness of 75–80°. The first climber has to ascend to the full length of the rope, extremely cautiously, deviating slightly to the right. Only after 30 m, on a small ledge, above which there is a 3–4-meter wall, is there a crack (piton belay). Only one person can be taken to the platform.