Ascent Passport

Area — Altai, Katunsky ridge. Summit — Peak 60 let Pobedy. Route — combined. Estimated category of difficulty — 1B. Height difference — 400 m. Distance — 1000 m. Use of technical means — ice axes, crampons, rope. Travel time — 7–8 hours from overnight stay. Leader — Shumilov V. D., instructor cert. No. 697 Participants:

• Kavunenko V. D. — Master of Sports of Russia International Class
• Tinin Yu. P. — Candidate for Master of Sports
• Odintsov Yu. F. — 1st sports category
• Odintsov F. Yu. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
• Bedarev M. V. — badge "Alp. Rossii"
• Zhukov I. V. — unranked
• Zhukova A. I. — unranked

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16

Protocol No. 15 dated November 24, 1997, item 3.

PASSPORT

1. Ice and snow class
2. Altai South Chuya Ridge
3. Pik Altayskoy Pravdy 3579 m via the north-eastern slope
4. Proposed category 1B difficulty (first ascent)
5. Elevation gain 200 m, distance 450 m
6. Not used

PASSPORT

1. First Ascent
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge
3. v. Ostriy via N ridge
4. Category 1B difficulty proposed
5. Height 3751 m, elevation gain 420 m, length 850 m
6. Equipment: ice screws — 3 pcs.
7. Overnight stays: not required
8. Climbing time 10 hours from bivouac to bivouac, 5 hours from glacier to glacier.
9. Leader: Barnov S.I. — 1st sports category

Mt. Ermolaeva S. (2163 m) – peak Ermolaeva (2153 m), 2A cat. diff.

From the base camp, immediately cross to the right side of the right tributary of the Ulun River and begin the ascent towards the obvious buttress of peak Sev. Ermolaeva. First, ascend the snowy slope for about 300 m in the direction of the first "bastion" on the buttress, which is 8 m high. It is overcome head-on. Then, along the sharp snowy ridge for 50 m, approach the base of the second 20 m "bastion". Pass it on the right side through the wall. Further, after traversing 70 m of a simple ridge, reach the third 5 m "bastion". Pass it on its right side via a clearly visible internal corner. Then, along a simple ridge, reach peak Sev. Ermolaeva. Movement along the buttress is logical and safe. Further, move along a heavily serrated ridge for 200 m towards the foot of a large "bastion". It is passed via slabs and a wall in the center – the key point of the route. Then, another 60 m of a heavily serrated ridge with gaps, which leads to a wide snowy ridge of the summit ascent of peak Ermolaeva. The total ascent time is 4–5 hours. Descent is via the S. ridge on route 1B cat. diff.

Route Safety Assessment

The route is ridge-based throughout. Snow cornices on the ridge to the left along the way pose a danger.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Equipment Usage and Route Passage Features

For groups of 6 people, it is necessary to have:

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

9. Descriptions of Ascent Routes to Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m)

Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m) – Mt. Ulun (2221 m), Category 1B Difficulty

From the base camp, move along the left tributary of the Ulun River, then towards the Edelweiss Pass. After 20–30 minutes of walking, start ascending up and to the right along the Eastern Counterfort of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m). After 1 hour and 10 minutes of ascent along a relatively simple snow-covered ridge with step-kicking, reach the Northeast Ridge of the summit, then continue along it for 20 minutes to the summit. The ridge is not steep and is snow-covered, but mutual belay is necessary due to the presence of snow cornices. Crampons are mandatory! The summit of Khabarovskikh Alpinistok is a pyramid with steep walls dropping to the Southwest and Southeast. The further path is clearly visible from the summit. The traverse follows the ridge directed from North to South. Characteristics of the ridge:

• rocky, fairly narrow;
• drops steeply on both sides with walls up to 60 m deep;
• partially snow-covered, which somewhat simplifies movement;
• features low "gendarme" formations that can only be overcome head-on.

Mt. Tsoya (2130 m) – Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok (2166 m), category 2A

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace of the left bank of the Ulun River, move 40 minutes downstream. Having rounded the entire Northeast ridge of Mt. Khabarovskikh Alpinistok, reach the foot of Mt. 1942. The ascent to Mt. Tsoya is done along the Northeast ridge via Mt. 1942. The right slope of the ridge is covered with very dense firn, movement is only possible in crampons. The time taken to move along the ridge to Mt. Tsoya is 2–2.5 hours. Insurance is simultaneous. Mt. Tsoya is a snow-covered dome. Further movement from the summit along the Southeast ridge:

• Insurance is simultaneous.
• Movement is in crampons.
• After 20–25 minutes, reach a large "gendarme" which is overcome "head-on".
• The use of pitons or camming devices is possible.
• The further ridge is heavily dissected, several small 20–30-meter "gendarmes" are encountered, passable "head-on" with alternating insurance.
• 1 hour 20–30 minutes after the large "gendarme", reach the summit tower.

V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff. sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears. sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes. approx. 45° E 12

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 8.3.61 Polar Urals, Raiiz mountain massif, valleys of the Enga-Yu and Sob rivers.
2. Name of the peak: 1287.0 (Topografov Peak) height: 1287.0 route: north-eastern ridge.
3. Category of complexity: 1B, pp.
4. Character of the route — combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 520 m
6. Length of the route: 5900 m
7. Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Western Caucasus, Main Caucasus Range, Belaya River valley
2. Peak, route: p. Fisht (2867), via NW ridge (via "Crocodile")
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 2A, first ascent
4. Route length: 1400 m Average slope of the route: 30°
5. Number of walking hours/days: 3/0.1
6. Leader: Skripchenko A. V. Participants: Yakunina Yu. A., Foigel M. R.
7. Departure to the route: September 6, 2002