Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical.
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, key peak of the Adyrsu, Tyutyusu, and Chegem gorges area.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJAILYK, 4533 m, rock route, via the left part of the Western wall of the South ridge shoulder.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m, average steepness 70°, length of sections of V difficulty category – 45 m, VI difficulty category – 120 m.
5. Estimated difficulty category: – 5B.
6. Pitons hammered:
   • for belay
     • rock: 32
     • bolt: 42

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Tina­yyol ha­ya­ra­ra MAPUPST From the upper Kpchkpdarsky bivouacs, crossing the Zapadnыy — Su glacier, we approach the summit of Dhaidik from the west, to a narrow snowy ascent, where the route begins.

• In the lower part of the couloir (20–40 m) we ascend via a large jammed stone. We overhang this stone on the left (possibly on the right).
• Along the right -300 wall of the couloir, we ascend to its upper part (40 m).
• In the upper part, we move to the left side of the couloir onto a steep ledge (psychological moment). Insurance is through a crook. The transition is carried out by stepping over the couloir.

Moscow Alpinism Championship

High-Altitude Technical Class

Ascent Report

To the peak Dzhailyk, 4424 m, via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib by Frantsuzov's route Team KAiS MPEI Moscow, 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Central Caucasus, northern spur of the Main Caucasian Range, branching off from Mestia-tau peak, Dzhailyk node between Donkin and Kilar passes, section number according to the classification table 2.4.1.
2. Dzhailyk peak 4424 m via 1st South buttress, 3rd rib (Frantsuzov's route 1970).
3. Difficulty category: 5B.

Report of the Rostov Region team on the ascent to the summit of Jailyk (4424) via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 5B

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Caucasus, 2.4.1. From Gumachi pass to Kitlod pass (Adyrsu, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys);
2. Peak, route: Jailyk 4424 m via the 1st South Bastion of the Western Edge "Franzuzov's Route" 1970;
3. Category: 5B;
4. Route type: rock;
5. Route height difference: 670 m; Route length: 905 m
   • Length of sections: V category — 180 m
   • Length of sections: VI category — 80 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — technically challenging. 2. Ascent area — Main Caucasian Ridge and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrkh spur, Dzhaulyak. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Dzhaulyak, 4533 m, via the eastern wall. 4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 590 m, average steepness — 75 °, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. – 83 m. 6. Pitons driven: * rock: for belaying — 43, for creating I.T.O. – 34 * ice: for belaying — 2, for creating I.T.O. – 1 * bolt: for belaying — 1, for creating I.T.O. – 4

64. Kichkidar via the West Ridge (combined route, category 2A difficulty, Fig. 5, 7). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the upper plateau of the Zapadny Yunum glacier with a starting bivouac at "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" is described in route 73. Across the glacier plateau (closed crevasses), approach the right side of the steep West Ridge of Kichkidar peak. From the glacier, turn right and ascend the ice-snow slope, bypassing the rock walls at the base of the West Ridge and its I gendarme on the right. After passing the gendarme, turn left and ascend a 120-160-meter ice-snow couloir to the col of the West Ridge above the I gendarme. On the col, turn right, then across snowy expanses, destroyed and sometimes steep rocks alternating with snowy sections of the West Ridge, bypassing low gendarmes and walls on the left (with protection), ascend to the summit of Kichkidar. From "Verkhne-Kichkidarskie nochyovki" 3-3.5 hours.

235. Kulak via the Northwest Ridge (V. Merkl's combined route, category IIIA, difficulty, fig. 18, 28).

The path from the Chegem tourist base (group of 4-8 people) to the lake at the foot of the Eastern Ridge of the Bodorku peak is described in route 233. From the lake, turn right and ascend, crossing the Western branch of the Kulak Glacier (closed crevices), to the right side of its Southwest branch. From here, ascend in the direction of the col of the False Twiber pass, located in the Main Caucasian Ridge (MKR) to the left (south) of the Twiber pass, on the right side of the heavily broken Southwest branch of the glacier. From the glacier, cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge and ascend a steep ice-and-snow slope (avalanches, rockfall) to the left side of the col of the False Twiber pass. The ascent is also possible via the rocks of the counterfort in the middle part of the col ("unstable rocks", protection). On the col, turn left and ascend via easy, simple rocks of the ridge to a platform. The initial bivouac is on the platform. From the Chegem tourist base, 8-12 hours. From the platforms on the col, ascend via the Northwest Ridge of the Kulak peak. From the col, 120-150 m upwards via simple rocks of the narrow Northwest Ridge, bypassing small difficult walls on the right ("unstable rocks", piton protection). Then, 300-350 m upwards via the wide, snow-covered, rocky Northwest Ridge to the North Shoulder (I pinnacle). From the shoulder:

• descent via a 50-60-meter ice-and-snow slope;
• ascent via a steep 50-60-meter ice-and-snow rise of the Northwest Ridge (cornices, piton protection) to the second North pinnacle. From the northern pinnacle-coudelle, a small descent via a simple, snow-covered, rocky ridge follows. Then, 50-60 m upwards via a steep ice-and-snow slope of the Northwest Ridge (cornices, piton protection) to the right side of the rocky wall of the summit tower.

Ascent Passport

1. ASCENT TYPE — rock climbing
2. ASCENT REGION — Main Caucasus Range between Garvash and Jantugan passes
3. PEAK — Latsga (3980 m) via the southern ridge
4. PROPOSED DIFFICULTY CATEGORY — 3B
5. ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS — ridge ascent with a height difference of 560 m, average steepness of 45°
6. PITONS DRIVEN — 8 rock pitons for belaying
7. TIME TAKEN — 8 hours 30 minutes from the start of the route to the summit (group of 6 people)
8. NUMBER AND CHARACTERISTICS OF NIGHTS SPENT — no convenient places for overnight stays; it is possible to set up one tent approximately at the middle part of the route (beyond the "black triangle")
9. ASCENT LEADER: Zaporozhchenko E.V. — 1st sports category

Fig. 25

1. Ascent to Sofrudju peak (3785 m) — cat. d. 1B (fig. 25)

From Dombayskaya polyana cross the bridge over the Alibek river and follow the trail to the stream descending from the large Belalakay couloir. Cross the stream to the snowfield and ascend it for 300–350 m. Then turn left into the Sofrudju couloir (danger of rockfall!) and ascend it to a large overhanging rock. Continue straight up the steep section to the trail and follow it to Medvezhya (Med­ve­zh­'ya) polyana. From Medvezhya polyana ascend 300–350 m up the eastern slope of Belalakay through the snow — exit to the Sofrudju bivouac. From Dombayskaya polyana — 5–6 hours.