Ascent Log

1. Ascent type: rock
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, 26
3. Peak, its height, and route — Suganbashi, 4450 m via the right part of the NE wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics elevation gain — 1060 average steepness — 75 ° length of sections: I — 80 m, II — 290 m, III — 480 m, IV — 300 m
6. Number of anchors used for belays to create FTO:

2. Ascent to the summit Glavny Ptysh (3520 m) along the eastern edge — cat. diff. 3B (Fig. 39)

Bivouac on the Ptyshsky pass. From the pass, 30 m to the right along the shelves to a 3-meter wall and along it to the left and upwards to the jagged ridge composed of inclined slabs (piton protection!). Further directly along the ridge to the steepest part of the ascent (bypassing to the south is not recommended). At the steep part of the ascent:

• exit to the left to the internal corner,
• along it upwards 15–18 m (thorough piton protection!)
• exit to the shoulder. From the shoulder:
• upwards on the right side of the wide couloir (rockfall!)
• to the summit. From the pass 6–7 hours.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge 3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Olympiycev (p. 3805), 3805 m, via the left buttress of the North face. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m average steepness — 40°, length of sections: — II — 200 m — III — 100 m — IV — 40 m

Ascent Record

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION ФЕДЕРАЦИЯ АЛЬПИНИЗМА РОССИИ

1. Ascent category: technically challenging
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights: Malaya Ushba via the western ridge 4320 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • altitude difference: 320 m

ASCENT DOCUMENT

First Ascent Category — TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS MAIN CAUCASUS RANGE USHBA PLATEAU USHBA MALAYA 4309 m VIA NORTH-EAST RIDGE Proposed difficulty category: 3B Height difference — 200 m (from the plateau) Length of 5A category difficulty sections — 5 m

Passport

Ascent made in the 1971 USSR Championship on

Alpinism

1. Class of ascent: technically difficult.
2. Region of ascent: Central Caucasus.
3. Route of ascent with indication of peaks and their heights: Ushba Malaya via: South wall, height 4320 m. (first ascent).
4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference: 960 m. average steepness: approximately 59°, average steepness of difficult

1885

Ascent Passport

I. Climbing category — rock climbing 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Peak USHBA Malaya on D-3 wall 4. Presumed difficulty category 5B 5. Elevation gain 800 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade 400 m. Average steepness of complex sections 80° 6. Number of pitons driven for belay 52 7. Number of travel hours 18

Passport

2. 4. 1986

Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974

1. ASCENT CLASS:
2. ASCENT REGION:
3. ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m)

4. Characteristics of the ascent:

• HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m
• AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°

I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

2286

V. CHATYN-TAU (4363 m). ROUTES ON THE "DIAMOND":

• PRIMITIVE ROUTE
• SNESAREV'S ROUTE
• CHERNOSLIVIN'S ROUTE
• MYSHLYAEV'S ROUTE PASSING SECTION II, AS WELL AS SECTIONS 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 16 ON THE "DIAMOND" (170 meters)