169

Traverse Description

Peak Tashtambektor — Onduuchoku — Sherkhan South — Sherkhan Central — Sherkhan North with ascent to Peak Tashtambektor via the North wall, accomplished by the MOS DSO "ZENIT" team July 27, 1977 – July 31, 1977 (approximately 5B category of complexity)www.alpfederation.ru Photo 1. Profile-detailed wall of Peak Tashtambektor

I. Technical Category 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too 3. v. Festivalnaya via NW buttress 4. Proposed category: 5B 5. Elevation gain: 840 m, wall length: 1050 m, length of sections with 5-6 category: 750 m. Average steepness of the wall: 66°. 6. Pitons used: rock 103 nut 32 ice 25 bolts –

Ascent Log

1. Ascent Category: Technical
2. Ascent Area: Tian Shan, Terskey Ala-Too, Chon-Uzen River Valley
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak 4600 m via the NE buttress, proposed category 5B
4. Route Characteristics: height difference — 1100 m, route steepness 65°, section lengths:
   • 2nd difficulty category – 70 m
   • 3rd difficulty category – 160 m
   • 4th difficulty category – 420 m
   • 5th difficulty category – 400 m

Ascent Route

Druzhba, category 4A via SW ridge (V. Mendorf, 79).

Map

Sairam-su valley, West Tian Shan, Ugam ridge. Scale 1:50,000.

Brief Description of the Approach to the Routes

The "Druzhba" peak is located in the Ugam ridge (Western Tian Shan), southwest of the "Sairam" peak, the highest point in the area. From Chimkent city, follow the asphalt road to the Kaskasu settlement and then continue on a dirt road along the Sairam-su river to the base camp (see the map of the area). From the base camp, follow a good trail along the Kergely river for 3.5 hours to reach the overnight stay location near the upper lakes. The approach to the start of the routes takes 1.5 hours walking through a wide couloir to the right of the "Obmanchivaya" peak. Upon reaching the upper moraine near the glacier, the northwest facade of the "Druzhba" peak is clearly visible.

32

Description

Traversing the peak KOPTAU (4100 m) No. 2. (First ascent). Departure from the bivouac, located by the lake, at dawn, at 5 or 5:30 am, but no later. Immediately behind the lake, the ascent of the terminal moraine of the ancient glacier begins (height 40–50 m); keeping to the right side, we ascend a few more gentle and small ascents and exit to the middle talus. To our left will be two slabs. One rises above the other by 1.5–2 m, the slabs are smoothed to 30° steepness. If there is snow on the slabs, they can be passed, if they are without snow, it is better to bypass them on the fairly small talus to the right (downhill). On the talus to the right, we ascend above the gorge, which is exposed to rockfall from the very early morning. Then, keeping to the right side, we head towards the false saddle. The path goes along a fairly steep snowfield (45–50 degrees). To our left remains a long ridge leading to the summit. When we come level with the beginning of the ridge, we need to climb steeply to the left to the foot of the ridge. Its northwest wall is completely sheer, with no snow or loose rocks, and under it is fairly dense deep snow. Until now, in most cases, the snow lies on the slabs, and when traversing in the lower part, it is possible to get caught in an avalanche. The entire path to the foot of the ridge will take one and a half to two hours. Then, keeping at a distance of 30–50 meters from the ridge on the snowfield, we ascend to the imaginary saddle, which is visible as two patches of talus. We need to exit to the left part between the talus and the ridge. This section of the path will take another hour and a half.

Climbing Passport

I. Climbing category — technical. 2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, Chatkal Range. 3. Climbing route — to v. Bolshoy Chimgan via the northwest wall, peak height — 3207 m above sea level. 4. Climbing characteristics: — height difference — 1500 m, — average steepness — 65°, — length of the difficult section — 600 m. 5. Pitons hammered: — rock — 55

4135

Joloe Peak (East), 4355 m

via the north central ridge, cat. 4A (from camp on Joloe Glacier 3560 m) From the 3560 m bivouac located on the left side of Joloe Glacier, ascend via moraine (snow-covered depending on the season) to the north-central ridge lying to the right of the northern buttress. The ascent to the start of the route is via a snow-ice slope with a slope angle of 35–40° and a length of 120 m, to the left of the lower third of a monolithic rocky triangle. The route follows the left (as seen from below) edge of the triangle; climbing grade 3–4. Belays are alternating, via projections; use protection gear and pitons. The section is 130–140 m long. This is followed by a small snow-covered rocky ledge 3–4 m wide, after which there is

• a 35-meter rocky wall with a slope angle of 75–80°, leading to a rocky "window" and the ridge. Belays are via pitons and protection gear. Climbing is difficult. This is the first crux. The ascent continues along the ridge:
• Belays are alternating until a snow-covered ledge; the ridge is degraded, rocks are grade 2–3.
• Ahead lies a large gendarme, which is ascended head-on via a cleft and then a chimney; the height is 10 m, climbing is difficult, challenging.

47² μ⁸ μ/2

Djoung Manas (4512 m) via the Eastern ridge (from the col) via the route 4A cat. diff. Exit from the "May nights" camp at 3300 m, movement along the glacier, crossing it diagonally, towards the col — 1 hour. Before ascending to the col, it is necessary to rope up:

• Sharp altitude gain
• Hard firn
• Slope steepness up to 45–50° Reaching the ridge at 3850 m. Beginning of the route. Exit through a crevasse onto a gendarme — 20 m, intermittent belay. Descent via rocky outcrops — 30 m. Left along the ridge, climbing 3^a technical difficulty. Further ascent along the ridge — 30 m. The second gendarme is bypassed on the left via loose rocky slabs — 30 m, then along a snowy ridge — 50 m. A short descent, followed by an ascent along a snowy slope 35–40° — 150 meters. Movement along a snowy ridge with a steepness of 25–30° — 200 meters. To the right remains a reddish granite tooth — 10 m. Further:

I. ASCENT LOG

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range — North Tian Shan, Talas Range
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Yuzhny Manas, 4512 m, via the center of the north face of the eastern ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1000 m, length of sections with 5-6 technical difficulty, 537 m, average steepness — ~75°
6. Pitons used: for belaying — rock 116, ice and bolt —; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 25, ice and bolt —
7. Number of climbing hours — 30
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: two bivouacs: on the wall — semi-reclining for two; on the eastern ridge — good reclining
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification: pair — KRAPIVIN V.N., CMS; PARSHIN V.S., CMS

The path from the Tsey district CSP or from the village of Dzinaga to the initial bivouac on the sites of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak. From the bivouac (departure at 3:00–4:00 am due to avalanche danger), from the snow plateau (closed crevasses) bypass Bivouachnaya peak from the left (from the north), and behind it approach the North-west edge of Uilpata peak. From the plateau, having crossed the bergschrund on a snow bridge, approach the rocks of the North-west edge along a steep ice-and-snow 100–120-meter slope. Up a steep ice slope on the right side of the rocks of the North-west edge 350–400 m straight up (pitons belay). Before the ice rise, exit left onto the rocks of the North-west edge. Up 40 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty of the edge to the rock rise, then up 40-meter rise with rocks of above medium difficulty («live» stones — pitons belay) — ascent to the talus sites. From the sites, along the rocks of medium difficulty of the edge, approach the wall, which is bypassed on the right along a steep 100-meter ice-and-snow slope (pitons belay). Then up a steep 200-meter ice-and-snow North-west edge (pitons belay) — ascent to the summit ridge and along it (cornices) — exit to the summit of Uilpata.