Activity Feed
Route Description: ЮВ гребню
Ascent to Peak Krupskaya (6008 m) via the North-Eastern Ridge, completed in 1974 by a group of climbers from MAI, difficulty category 5A.
Peak Krupskaya (6008 m), via the Southeast Ridge, mixed terrain, from Turamys Glacier.
The ascent was made on July 12–14, 1974, by a group from the MAI training camp "Vysochnik" led by V.A. Shuvаlov.
Group Members
- Shuvаlov V.A. — 1st sports category — leader
- Nazarov I.V. — participant
- Komkov V.M. — participant
- Plotkin V.V. — participant Description compiled by: V.A. Shuvаlov
Route Description: с л. Вальтера или Фортамбек через БПП
### Ascent to Peak Kuibyshev via the Pamir Firn Plateau in 1967 Description of the route and technical characteristics of the path.
| Date | Average Steepness | Length along Highland Trails | Characteristic of the Section and Conditions of its Passage | Time | Pitons Driven | Notes |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| by terrain characteristics | by technical difficulty | by belay method | rock | |||
| I | 2 | 3 | 4 | 5 | 6 | 7 |
| August 10, 1967 | 400 m | Moraine, glacier | Simultaneous movement | 6:30 | 1:00 | |
| Talus, destroyed rocks, snow | Simultaneous movement | 7:40 | 2:30 | |||
| 30–35° | 1×40 m | ice | piton belay | 10:35 | ||
| — | 20 m | Destroyed rocks | simple | — | ||
| — | 40 m | Ice slope | Medium difficulty | piton belay |
Route Description: ЮЗ стене
Description of the ascent to Peak Kuibyshev (6198 m) via the Southwest Face, made by the SAVO team in 1977, with a detailed description of the route and its characteristics.
Ascent Log
I. Ascent category: high-altitude technical (up to 6500 m) 2. Ascent area: North-Western, Pamir, l. Garmo 3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: South-West wall of p. Kuibyshev, 6198 m 4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1560 m, average steepness — 68.5°, length of complex section — 485 m 5. Pitons driven: rock — 178, ice — 16, bolt — — 6. Number of travel hours — 53 h 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: four, all sitting 8. Team name: Central Asian Military District (CAMD) 9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants and their sports qualification:
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
Report on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningrad via the South-West face from the Lipsky glacier, 6th difficulty category, made as part of the 1981 USSR Alpine Championship.
USSR Alpine Climbing Championship
High-altitude technical class.
Report
on the ascent of the Moscow City Sports Committee team to Peak Leningradskaya Western (6470) via the Southwest wall from Lipsky Glacier, approximately category 6 difficulty.
Moscow
1981
Photo of the wall
Photo of the route profile.
Route Description: ЮЗ стене с л. Липского
Description of the ascent route to Leningrad Peak (6470 m) in the Central Pamir via the Southwest Face from the Lipsky Glacier.
I. Climbing category 2. Climbing region 3. Peak, its height, climbing route 4. Proposed difficulty category 5. Route characteristics: height difference length of sections 5–6 cat. diff. average steepness 6. Number of pitons driven and placement elements used: rock, ice,
Route Description: СВ гребню
### Description of the First Ascent of Peak Oleg Mkrtchan 4980 m in Tajikistan via the North-Eastern Ridge, Difficulty Category 4B.
"Peak Oleg Mkrtchan", height 4980 m. "Kurayshapak" ridge, North-Eastern spurs of the Peter the First ridge, PAMIR. REPUBLIC OF TAJIKISTAN.
Ascent Passport
- Country, mountain system name:
- Ascent class:
- Ascent area, ridge:
- Peak, its height, ascent route:
- Proposed difficulty category:
- Route characteristics: height difference: length of sections of 4–5 complexity categories: average steepness:
- Number of driven pitons or used placement elements:
Route Description: СВ стене
Ascent of the northeastern wall of Peak Moskva (6785 m) in the Pamir mountains via a Category 6 difficulty route, detailing preparations and tactics employed by a team of Ukrainian alpinists in 1977.
I. Climbing category — high-altitude 2. Climbing area — Pamir, Peter I Ridge 3. Peak — Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the NE wall from Fortambek Glacier 4. Proposed difficulty category — 6B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 2835 m, section lengths: III cat. diff. — 160 m, IV cat. diff. — 700 m, V–VI cat. diff. — 3515 m, including wall sections (excluding the pre-summit ridge) — 2615 m, average steepness — 75° (wall section) 6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors: rock — 175, 15; ice — 101, 24; bolt — 3, 3 7. Total climbing hours — 143 8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: twelve bivouacs, including one sitting and four semi-sitting due to limited platform sizes.
Route Description: ЮВ стене
The ascent of the Sports Committee of the Georgian SSR team to **Pik Moskva** via the South-East wall in 1979, category 6B complexity.
Ascent in the USSR Championship in alpinism
1979
- Class of ascent - high-altitude
- Region of ascent - Pamir
- Route of ascent - Peak Moskva (6785 m) via the southeast wall.
- Characteristics of the ascent: a) height difference - 2600 m. b) average steepness of the route - 75°. c) length of the most difficult sections vertically - 1500 m.
- Number of pitons used - rock 152 (including 40 channels and placements), ice - 46, and bolted - 5.
Route Description: траверс 10-ти вершин
Traversing eight Pamir peaks by the team of the Alpinist Club named after A. Dzhaparidze; first ascent of the south-eastern counterfort of the Pik Nablyudeniy.
28
Georgian Climbing Club
named after A. B. Japaridze
Class of Traverses
Traverse
Peak "Nablyudeniy" (5579 m) – peak "Fersmana" (5700 m) – peak "Bezimyannyy" (6010 m) – Oshanina massif (6390 m) – peak "30th Anniversary of the Soviet State" (6447 m) – peak "Moskva" (6785 m) – peak "Soyuz-Apollon" (6047 m) – peak "Dushanbe" (5456 m) with ascent to peak "Nablyudeniy" via the southeastern counterfort (first ascent) Team of the Georgian Climbing Club named after A. Japaridze Leader: D. Dangadze, Master of Sports Members:
- G. Abashidze, Master of Sports
Route Description: ЮЗ кф. 3 гребня
A description of the ascent route to the summit Imakouk (4533 m) with a detailed breakdown of the stages and categories of complexity.
5 Imakouk
4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19
- R17
- R18 R16
- R14–R15
- R12–R8