Ascent Log

I. Ascent category: rock climbing 2. Region: Pamir-Alay 3. Peak: p. 4240 "Little Prince" via the left part of the Eastern wall 4. Approximate difficulty: 5B category 5. Route description: rock climbing, height difference 620 m (wall section 590 m), average steepness of the wall 71°, length of sections with 5th-6th category difficulty — 700 m 6. Number of pitons used:

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Koksu gorge.
3. Malenkiy Prints peak (4240 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall (route by Yu. Zadvoryev)
4. Difficulty category — 5B (3rd ascent of the route)
5. Height difference 850 m, length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 650 m Average steepness of main sections 68° (3650–4200)
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Log

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir, Pamir-Alay, Alay Range, Koksu valley.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Pravda Vostoka, 4950 m, via the center of the Northeast face with an exit to the North counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 970 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections — 760 m, average steepness — 55°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for artificial climbing anchors: rock — 114, ice — 3, bolt —.
7. Number of climbing hours — 23.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Alai Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 50 лет Узбекистана (50 Years of Uzbekistan), 4650 m, via the heart of the NW wall.
4. Difficulty category 5A.
5. Route characteristics — combined, height difference 850 m, length of 5th category sections 240 m, total 1190 m, average steepness 50°.
6. Pitons driven:
   • for belaying: rock — 85, ice — 3, bolted — none;
   • for creating initial points: rock — 10, ice — none, bolted — none.
7. Number of climbing hours — 25 hours.

Ascent Log

To the summit of Peak Solieva (4770 m) via the Northwest Ridge.

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Alai Range, Kok-Su gorge.
3. Peak: Peak Solieva (4770 m) via the Northwest Ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 750 m; section lengths: 5th cat. diff. – 30 m,

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area: Alaisky ridge, Keksu river area.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — peak 4480.5 m, via the southern ridge (first ascent).
4. Proposed difficulty category — 2A category of difficulty.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 525 m; rocky route; length of sections 5–6 km/tr; average steepness — 35°–40°.
6. Pitons driven: for belay for creating artificial holding points. Rock — Ice — Bolt —

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alay. Alay Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Skalny, 4480 m via the Southwest wall, North ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 600 m. average steepness — 35–40°, length of sections:
   • I — 800 m.
   • II — 680 m.
   • III — 515 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: traverse.
2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Altai ridge: Kok-Su valley.
3. Traverse of peaks: Sons 4950 m — Tereshkova 4870 m — Bykovsky 4840 m — Popovich 4800 m — Nikolaev 4900 m — Gagarin 4850 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5A.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference: 1330 m, length of sections with 5th difficulty category — 460 m, average steepness.
6. Pitons used for passage: Rock pitons — 67, ice pitons — none.
7. Total hours of climbing — 34.5.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: Southern spurs of the Alay Ridge, Kок-Су valley. 3. Tekelik Peak, 5080 m, NE edge. 4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 5080–5820 = 1260 m, length of technically difficult sections 540 m, average steepness 60°. 6. Protection: 63 rock anchors, 29 ice screws, 23 rappel rings with carabiners. 7. Total climbing time: 23 hours. 8. Number and characteristics of bivouacs: two bivouacs, good conditions.

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.