V. PASSIONARIA VIA NW RIDGE BASTION, 5B cat. diff.

Fig. 23 96. Skatikom (4450 m) via North-East Wall (combined route by G. Bukharov, 5A cat. diff., Fig. 23). From the base camp on the right bank of the Songuti River, near the tongue of the same-name glacier (group of 4–6 people), ascend to the glacier, cross it to the right and exit to the right-bank moraine. Follow the moraine to the "ram's foreheads" and bypass three seracs on the right:

• First serac
• Second serac
• Third serac Beyond the third serac, exit the rocks to the left onto the glacier and ascend to the upper snow plateau of the Western branch of the glacier along its right side. Follow the plateau to the foot of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. The initial bivouac is on the plateau under the wall. 6–8 hours from the base camp. From the plateau, ascend a steep ice-and-snow 60-meter slope with a bergschrund in the middle part to a rock shelf on the left side of the black wall at the base of the North-East wall of Skatikom peak. From the shelf:

SON-GUTI UP THE RIGHT BUTTRESS OF THE EASTERN WALL, 5A R1: 300 m, diff. cat. 2 R2: 60 m, diff. cat. 1 R3: 500 m, diff. cat. 2+ R4: 25 m, diff. cat. 2 R5: 80 m, diff. cat. 4 R6: 200 m, diff. cat. 5 R7: 100 m, diff. cat. 5

V. Uilpata via the fourth buttress of the South ridge, category 4B

Here is the original image: and here are the different crops of this image to help you see better, use these only as hints:

UKRAINIAN REPUBLICAN COUNCIL OF THE STUDENT SPORTS SOCIETY "BUREVESTNIK"

FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF UILPATA-TAU VIA THE CENTRAL RIB FROM THE EAST, 5B category of difficulty (report) Caucasus, Tsey, July 26–28, 1968

I. Introduction

1. Brief characteristics of the ascent area

The summit of Uilpata-tau (4646 m) is located in close proximity to the Main Caucasian Range and towers above all other peaks in the Tsey region of the Caucasus. The Tsey mountain region is situated to the northeast of the Main Caucasian Range, encompassing peaks from Nokauk-sakh-zayne in the west to Mamison-Khokh in the east. The main peaks of the region — Fday-khokh, Zomag-taU, Ronketti, Mamison-Khokh, ChanchaKhi-Khokh, Uilpata-tau — are arranged in two "horseshoes" that divide the Tsey Glacier into two cirques: the South and North cirques. In the North cirque of the Tsey Glacier are located the peaks:

III. Uipata via the Third Buttress of the Yemnogogreben Ridge

(combined route, category 5A) From Uilpatin sleeping sites (or from Khosinn) the movement goes in the direction of the confluence of two couloirs that skirt the Central Buttress, and further to the beginning of the Central Ridge (buttress). The entry onto the rocks is carried out in the lower part of a large internal angle, further movement goes vertically upwards through the internal angle for 40 m. Then - along a steep shelf to the right for 10 m, exit onto несложные скалы (easy rocks), along which you need to go up to the ridge of the buttress for 60 m. After exiting onto the ridge of the buttress, you need to overcome a wall 10 m high, at the top of which on a rocky shoulder there is a control cairn. Relatively complex sections at the stage up to the I control cairn:

• Vertical movement upwards through the internal angle (40 m)
• Overcoming a steep shelf to the right (10 m)
• Ascending easy rocks to the ridge of the buttress (60 m)
• Overcoming a wall (10 m) to the control cairn TRAVERSING to the right in the upper part of the vertical angle (internal) and exit to the wall to the I cairn.

TACTICAL PLAN FOR ASCENDING ULLPATA PEAK

Via the 3rd Buttress of the South Ridge, Category 5A difficulty, July 14–15, 1983 (team under guidance)

Legend

• Ascent route
• Descent route
• Alternative descent route in good snow conditions

Objects on the Map

• Ullpata Peak: 4646 m (reached by 6:00)
• Ullpatinsky Pass

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying
   • rock — 104

Ukrainian Council of the "Burevestnik" Sports and Recreation Society Mt. UlarG, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North Face Team Composition:

• 1. Bodnik V.N.
• 2. Bychek A.M.
• 3. Barsukov V.A.
• 4. Bozhko I.V.
• 5. Derkach A.A.
• 6. Kharianyk I.V. 1980

Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification: technical.
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, "Tsey".
3. Peak, its height; ascent route: p. ChanchaKhi-khokh, 4450 m, NE wall (first ascent).
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B category.
5. Route characteristics: height difference - 1000 m, average steepness - 68°, section length - 5-6 km, technical difficulty - 800 m.
6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating ITO: rock - 153, for creating ITO - 8, ice - 0, bolted - 0.
7. Total climbing hours - 46.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: lying down - 2, sitting - 1.
9. Surname, name, and patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications: