Passport

2. 4. 1986

Ascent made in the USSR Alpine Championship 1974

1. ASCENT CLASS:
2. ASCENT REGION:
3. ASCENT ROUTE: TECHNICAL CENTRAL CAUCASUS SOUTH USHBA VIA THE CENTER OF THE WEST FACE (4710 m)

4. Characteristics of the ascent:

• HEIGHT DIFFERENCE 2100 m
• AVERAGE STEEPNESS 65°–70°

I. Climbing category — technically challenging 2. Climbing region — Central Caucasus 3. Climbing route — South Ushba 4710 m, via the pepinier-wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference (wall section of the route) — 1010 m, average steepness (wall section of the route) — 72°, length of complex sections — 820 m 5. Number of pitons hammered: rock — 263 ice — screw — 4 6. Number of travel hours — 109.5 7. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics:

2286

V. CHATYN-TAU (4363 m). ROUTES ON THE "DIAMOND":

• PRIMITIVE ROUTE
• SNESAREV'S ROUTE
• CHERNOSLIVIN'S ROUTE
• MYSHLYAEV'S ROUTE PASSING SECTION II, AS WELL AS SECTIONS 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 11, 12, 13, 16 ON THE "DIAMOND" (170 meters)

1. Climbing class — rock climbing
2. Climbing area — Sakashilsky
3. Peak — Peak XIV Congress of VLKSM, height 3465 m, climbing route — South wall from the Sakashil glacier cirque.
4. Estimated category difficulty — 3B.
5. Route characteristics — rock climbing. Height difference — 350 m. Average steepness — 60°.
6. Number of pitons — rock pitons 12 pcs. Number of travel hours — from Tyrnyauz town to the bivouac – 5 hours, from the bivouac to the summit and descent – 6 hours.
7. Number of nights — one night at a bivouac near the Sakashil glacier lake.
8. Leader — Nikolai Vasilyevich Zimin — 1st sports category Participants:

• I.I. Khachuev — 1st sports category

1. Climb characteristic: technically challenging.
2. Climbing area: Adyl-Su gorge, Central Caucasus.
3. Climbing route with indication of peaks and their heights: Cheget-Kara-Bashi peak via the northwestern ridge, 3667 m.
4. Climb characteristic: height difference 750–800 m, average steepness from 45° to 60°, length of difficult section 15 m, 10 m, 40 m.
5. Number of pitons: rock — 10, ice — –, drill — –.
6. Number of walking hours: 10.
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: –.
8. Team name: "Elbrus" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualifications:
   1. Plemyalkov Pavel Kirillovich — Master of Sports of the USSR.

211. Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol via the North-Eastern Ridge (M. Pavlenko's route, category III difficulty) The path from the town of Tyrnyauz (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac in the upper reaches of the Sakashil River is described in routes 209 and 210. From the bivouac, follow the left bank of the Sakashil River into the upper floodplain, where the river branches into several streams. Cross the river and ascend via large scree to an old terminal moraine of the Sakashil Glacier. Follow the moraine to reach the upper terrace. Then, either follow the stream or ascend slightly higher via grassy slopes on the right bank, and then via scree, approach the base of the Southeast Wall of Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. Turn right here and ascend up-right via a broad grassy couloir to a distinct notch on the North-Eastern ridge of the peak. 1.5–2 hours from the initial bivouac. From the notch, turn left and ascend 80 m straight up via moderately difficult steep slabs with small ledges and holds (piton belay, "live" rocks!). In the upper part, bypass steep smooth slabs on the left via a steep but straightforward couloir ("live" rocks!). From the couloir, bypass a нависающий угол on the left via ledges and ascend via a moderately difficult, indistinct internal corner to a ledge above an overhanging rock. Then, ascend via ledges on the left side of the wall to reach the ridge. Follow a straightforward, gently sloping ridge to R1, which is bypassed on the right via ledges (piton belay!). Then, ascend via moderately difficult rock to a point below R2, which is also bypassed on the left. Beyond the gendarme, ascend right onto the summit ridge. Follow a steep, sharp, but straightforward rocky ridge to ascend Peak XIV Congress of Komsomol. 5–6 hours from the notch.

46. Be­лая Ne­zna­kom­ka via East­ern ridge (the route is com­bined, V. Saba­niz­dze, cat­egory III, fig. 5, 8). From the pla­teau (point 37) along a steep ice-and-snow slope, with out­crops of bro­ken rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty, 150–200 m as­cent (pitons) to the Lower Shoul­der of the East­ern ridge. On the right there are ice falls. Fur­ther 200–250 m along the sim­ple ice-and-snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the Snow Sen­tinel. From it a short des­cent to a sad­dle. Fur­ther along a gen­tle, then along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow II as­cent and along frozen 20–40-me­ter rocks of me­dium dif­fi­culty (cor­nices, pitons) to the East­ern sen­tinel. From the sen­tinel along the snow East­ern ridge (cor­nices) to the sad­dle and along a steep 50–60-me­ter ice-and-snow (pitons) III as­cent, then along sim­ple

47

Ascent Record 3A (№)

1. Ascent category — Technical
2. Ascent region — Central Caucasus
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks p. Nuam-Kuam (4182 m) via S.W. edge
4. Ascent characteristics: height difference — 1200 m, average steepness, complex section length 20 m; 25 m;
5. Pitons hammered: rock – 18
6. Number of travel hours – 17
7. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics – 1 lying overnight stay

ASCENT CERTIFICATE.

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Main Caucasus Range, Inguri gorge.
3. Nuam-Kuam, 4153, via S.W. spur.
4. Presumed category difficulty — 4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1100 m sections of 5th difficulty grade — 100 m average steepness — 45 °
6. Pitons driven:

12. Samertskhle Zapadnaya via Western Ridge (rock climbing route, A. Naumova, category 3B difficulty, fig. 2, 4). On the wide col of the massif between the peaks of Sandro and Samertskhle (big tour, landmark 10) turn right and move along the simple 200–300-meter wide Western Ridge of Samertskhle Zapadnaya, overcoming low gendarmes and ascents head-on. Then 8–10 m along the sharp medium-difficulty (belay) Western Ridge. Further along the ledges and simple rocks on the right side of the Western Ridge. Bypass the "Jvari" gendarme on the right (belay), approach the summit ascent. From here, traverse right along narrow ledges to reach a rib, from which a 30 m traverse to the right along smooth slabs (pitons) leads to a narrow vertical couloir - chimney. Up the couloir - chimney ("live" stones) 10 m to a ledge, and from it up a steep smooth 30-meter slab (pitons) to a narrow ledge. Along the intermittent narrow ledge under the overhanging walls, traverse with a slight ascent to the right onto a narrow saddle of the Southern Rib. On the saddle, turn left and, bypassing the overhanging stones, ascend 40 m up the medium-difficulty wall ("live" stones, pitons). Further along simple rocks, ascend to the summit of Samertskhle Zapadnaya. From the big tour, the exit point to the massif's col, 5–6 hours. Descent option along the simple rocks of the Eastern Ridge to the saddle. From the saddle, to the right (south) and down along the easy simple destroyed rocks of the couloir (stones). Further:

• Descent along the snow-ice slope to the grassy slopes
• Along the grassy slopes through the saddle of the Lechumi Ridge
• Return to the base camp