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Route Description: кф. СЗ стены
Ascent to Chotagai peak (6133 m) in the Muzkol ridge in Pamir via the NW buttress of the wall, grade 5B, first ascent in 1986.
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Ascent Passport
- Category of first ascents.
- Region: Eastern Pamir, Muzkol Ridge.
- Peak CHOTAGAY (6133 m) via the S-3 counterfort of the wall, rock route.
- Proposed category of complexity — 5B, first ascent.
- Height difference — 1300 m, length — 1680 m. The average steepness of the main part of the route — 62° (5050–6000 m). Length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 710 m, ~45–50°.
- Pitons driven: | Rock | Nuts | Ice |
Route Description: правому кф. СЗ стены
First ascent of the 5660 m peak via the right counterfort of the north-west wall, cat. diff. 5B–6A, Pamir, Muzkol.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent category – wall climbing
- Ascent area – Muzkol, Central Pamir
- Peak 5660 via the right counterfort of the Northwest wall, first ascent.
- Proposed category of difficulty: 5B–6A
- Characteristics of the route: Total route length – 1210 m. Length of wall section – 680 m. Length of V–VI category – 554 m. Of which VI category – 155 m. Average steepness of the wall section – 81°. Height difference – 860 m.
- Number of pitons used:
Route Description: СЗ стене
Description of the first ascent of Peak 5660 via the northwestern wall in the Pamir Mountains, category 6B difficulty, climbed by a team from St. Petersburg in 1994.
Ascent Passport
- Climbing category — wall climb
- Climbing area — Pamir, Muzkol Ridge
- Peak 5660 via NW wall
- Proposed difficulty category — 6B, first ascent
- Height difference — 960 m Of which:
- wall — 800 m
- length — 1075 m
- length of wall section — 875 m
Route Description: В ребру, траверс
Description of a combined route, category 5A, to peaks 5860 and 5980 in the Muzkol Ridge of the Pamir Mountains, climbed by a group from St. Petersburg in 1994.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — combined
- Ascent area — Pamir, Muzkolsky Ridge
- Peaks: 5860–5980 along the E ridge
- Proposed category of complexity — 5A, first ascent
- Height difference — 885 m Of which:
- along the E ridge to the saddle — 545 m
- along the S ridge of p. 5860 — 110 m
- along the N ridge to p. 5980 — 230 m
Route Description: левой части С стены
### Description of the ascent route to Peak Evgeny Abalakov (6446 m) via the North Face Details the challenging ascent route to Peak Evgeny Abalakov, highlighting the complexity and intricacies of navigating the North Face.
- Class of ascent
- Altitude-technical;
- Region of ascent
- North-West Pamir, Petra Pervogo Ridge;
- Peak, its height, route
- peak Evgenia Abalakova, 6446 m via the north face;
- Estimated difficulty category
- Sixth;
- Route characteristics:
- Height difference — 2300 m;
Route Description: правой части С стены
Report on the second ascent of the route with category 5B difficulty level on the North face of Pik E. Abalakov in the Pamir Mountains in 1978.
- Climbing category – high-altitude and technical
- Climbing region, ridge – Pamir, Fortambek glacier, Peter I Ridge.
- Peak, its height, route – Peak E. Abalakova, 6446 m, via the N wall.
- Proposed difficulty category – 5B (second ascent)
- Route characteristics: height difference 2350 m length of difficult sections 5–6 cat. of difficulty 1410 m average steepness 66°
- Pitons hammered: for belaying – 163, for creating artificial anchors – 0 steel – 148 (15 of them at bivouacs), ice – 15, bolt – 0
Route Description: правой части С стены
First ascent via the north face of the Peak E. Abalakova (Pamir, Fortambek Glacier) in 1977.
- CLIMBING CLASS — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL
- CLIMBING REGION — PAMIR, FORTAMBEK GLACIER
- CLIMBING ROUTE WITH SUMMIT HEIGHT — FIRST ASCENT, NORTH WALL OF PEAK E. ABALAKOV, 6446 m
- CLIMBING CHARACTERISTICS:
- HEIGHT DIFFERENCE — 2350 m
- AVERAGE STEEPNESS — 66°
- LENGTH OF DIFFICULT SECTIONS — 1250 m
- PITS SET:
- ROCK PITS — 173
- ICE PITS — 51
Route Description: правой части С стены
Description of the ascent made by N.P. Kovtun's group to the summit of Peak Abalakov in 1979, route difficulty category, details of the climb, and key obstacles.
ASCENT REPORT
- Ascent category — high-altitude and technical
- Ascent area — Peter the First Ridge
- Peak, its height, route — Peak Abalakov via the north face (Georgian route), height 6446 m
- Difficulty category — 6B complexity category
- Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 2350 m. Average slope — 58°. Section lengths: 1st cat. diff. — absent, 2nd cat. diff. — absent, 3rd cat. diff. — 240 m, 4th cat. diff. — 900 m, 4–5 cat. diff. — 1080 m, 5th cat. diff. — 960 m, 5–6 cat. diff. — 520 m. Total length from the bergschrund — 3580 m
- Pitons used for protection: | Rock pitons | - | 156 |
Route Description: правой части С стены
Climbing passport for Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face, grade 6B, Pamir, Peter the First ridge.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class: high-altitude technical
- Ascent area: Peter I Range, Pamir
- Peak, its height, and ascent route: Peak E.A. Abalakova 6460 m via the right ridge of the North face
- Expected difficulty category: 6B
- Route characteristics: total height difference 2260 m, average route slope 59°, including technical sections 63°, route length 2820 m and sections by category of difficulty (m) | 1 | 250 | | - | ---- |
Route Description: СВ ребру и В гребню
The ascent of Pavel A.V.'s team to the summit of Dalar via the North-Eastern Edge (5B cat., combined route) in the Uzunkol gorge on the Western Caucasus.
- Western Caucasus, Uzunkol gorge, 2.3
- Peak name: Dalar, North-Eastern edge
- Category 5B complexity
- Route type: combined
- Elevation gain: 1000 m Route length: 1422 Section lengths:
- Category V complexity: 830
- Category VI complexity: 10 Average steepness: