Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak 5200 m via the center of the northwest wall
4. Estimated difficulty — 5B cat. (first ascent)
5. Ascent description (route): Height difference — 1200 m Length of sections with 5th cat. difficulty — 448 m, 6th cat. difficulty — 165 m Average steepness 64°
6. Pitons used: for belaying: rock — 144 (including protection gear), bolt — 6, ice — 4; for creating artificial anchors: rock — 4

Ascent to Peak Shipka (6247 m) via the Southwest Ridge Central Council of DSO "Zenit" 1970 Brief Geographical and Geological Characteristics of the Peak Shipka Area Peak Shipka (6247 m) is located in the central part of the Pamir Mountains, within the Gorno-Badakhshan Autonomous Region of the Tajik SSR. Along with the peaks:

• Peak 26 Baku Commissars (6834 m),
• Peak October Revolution (6974 m),
• Peak Paris Commune (6002 m), Peak Shipka encloses the Yazgulem-Dara valley, at the head of which lies the eponymous glacier, stretching over 15 km. On geographical maps, the name of the glacier and valley is incorrectly printed with "E" instead of "Ё", though this is a local name and is pronounced as YAZGULЁM-DARA.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class — High-altitude 2. Ascent Region — Central Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Peak Revolyutsii 6974 m via the center of the NNW wall 4. Proposed difficulty category — sixth 5. Route characteristics — height difference: wall — 140 m, route — 1674 m; average wall steepness — 63°; section lengths:

• III — 1200 m,
• IV — 320 m,

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Eastern Pamir
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 5306 (Ukrainian “Burvestnik”) via the southern ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 385 m, length — 1290 m, average steepness of the route — 20°, average steepness of the wall section — 60°, length of sections: – 1st difficulty category — 160 m – 2nd difficulty category — 395 m – 3rd difficulty category — 630 m

Passport

Ascent Details

1. Ascent type: High-altitude technical climb
2. Ascent region: Central Pamir, Maly Yazgulem ridge, Khavraz-Dara valley
3. Peak: Dik Cold Wall, 5959 m, via the northwest route
4. Anticipated difficulty category: 3B
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1520 m length of 3rd category terrain — 420 m, average steepness — 28°
6. Pitons used: for protection: rock — 15, camming devices — 11, ice screws — 3, bolted pitons — none. for creating artificial holds — none.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical class
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
3. Peak Kholodnaya стена via the center of the North wall 5970 m (Verba route)
4. 6th category of difficulty, second ascent, 4th overall
5. Elevation gain: 1500 m, length — 1800 m. Length of sections with 5–6 category difficulty — 1600 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 75° (4470 – 5850), including 6th category difficulty — 580 m
6. Pitons hammered: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--- | :--- | :--- | :--- | | 169+5x | — | 86 | 65 |

Route description by sections

Section R0–R1, R2–R4, R4–R5, R6–R9, R9–R28, R28–R81, R81–R86, R86–R88, R88–R89, R89–R40, R40–R41, R41–R42, R42–R48, R43–R44 Very destroyed rock wall. Rock wall, in the middle part - a cornice, is passed with the use of artificial support points (И.Т.О.). Alternation of:

• rock walls
• inner corners
• shelves Passed by free climbing (many loose stones).

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent region — Pamir, Yazgulem ridge («Kalev»)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. 5700 m from Gantman pass via SW ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference – 450 m average steepness – 30°, length of sections: R1 – 300 m, R2 – 280 m, R3 – 328 m, R4 – 80 m
6. Pitons driven for protection: for creating belays
   • rock – 6
   • ice – 31

I. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: Technical
2. Ascent area: Shugnan (northwestern spur)
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. 5026 (Vir peak) via the E wall
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 1300 m
   • Average steepness: E wall 70°
   • Length of sections:
     • 3rd category of difficulty – 800 m

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.