ASCENT CERTIFICATE

of the ascent made in the 1970 USSR Alpine Championship

1. Ascent class — technically challenging
2. Ascent area — Khalde - Bezengi
3. Ascent route indicating peaks and their elevations — Western Shkhara via the center of the southwest wall 5058 m.
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • elevation gain — 1500 m
   • average steepness:
     • lower section 60°
     • upper section 90°

Bashkhaauz, 3rd buttress of SW ridge. From the “Jangi-kosh” hut along the ridge of the right-bank (“sickle-shaped”) moraine to its flattening and further along the Sella glacier. Along the left edge or in the middle of the icefall (fig. 1) to the upper cirque and through it directly (attention — hidden crevasses) to the base of the most extensive buttress of the SW ridge of Bashkhaauz (fig. 3). From the hut 1.5–2.5 hours. The snow slope above the bergschrund — straight up under the protection of the rock walls at the base of the buttress, then along the boundary with the rocks on the left of the buttress to the first talus ledge with snow and along it to the right on the ridge. Along a straightforward ridge for 40 m to the black wall with exfoliating rocks, then traverse left for 20 m to the “finger”, straight up for 15 m along rocks of medium difficulty and slabs to the base of the yellow

JANGI (E), Eastern Counterfort - 5B cat.

The route to East Jangi-tau via the Eastern Counterfort is combined: its lower part is a rocky counterfort, the upper part is a snow-ice slope. The total length of the route is over 1600 m, the length of the rocky counterfort is 1000-1100 m. The average steepness of the rocky counterfort is 65-70°, with overhanging sections encountered on the route. The maximum steepness of the ice slope in the upper part of the route is 45-50°.

6. Description of the route by sections.

The initial bivouac is on a snow plateau under the base of the Eastern counterfort. The exit to the base of the counterfort is 120 m along a snowy slope at 40°. 40 m up the moderately difficult rocks to the base of the chimney (sect. a). The right wall of the chimney is a huge detached rock, the upper part is covered by an overhanging rock. The wall above the chimney is a continuation of its left side. The exit to the overhanging rock is 40 m either directly up the chimney (difficult climbing) or bypassing it on the right. Then there is a 15 m wall with two vertical slots. Ascent via the right slot, then in the upper part of the wall to the left slot and exit to the top of the wall. 40 m up the internal angle with an exit to the right onto inclined slabs (sect. b). Up the slabs to the base of a wide slot 5 m and up the slot to under a small cornice. Through the cornice, exit onto an inclined ledge and along it 40 m to the left to the junction of two walls (the ridge of the junction sect. b is visible in the photo).

Peak Kankosheva via NW ridge - 4A

Route description. The route starts from the moraine fields below KOSHTAN Pass; a snow-ice slope with an angle of 30 to 40° on the right - a total of 3 pitches over 40 m leads to a gap in the ridge behind the final ascent of the ridge. Then, exit onto the ridge via moderately difficult rocks and then easy, broken rocks - 2 pitches. Belays via outcrops. Along the ridge, 2 pitches on rock and ice, to the right. The rocks are slab-like, moderately difficult. Exit to the first ascent is 0.5 pitches via slabs and ice (pitons). Steepness is 45°. The ascent is a 60° wall with cracks, climbed directly from the left - 1 pitch or bypassed on the right - 1.5 pitches on ice with piton belays on rock. Ice steepness is 40-45°. Exit up and left onto the ascent via steep slabs resembling "sheep's foreheads" - 0.5 pitches. No outcrops, few handholds. Overnight stay possible at the ascent. Total of 4 hours from the start of the route. Then, the ridge ascent continues - moderately difficult rocks with outcrops, steepness 40-45°, total of 2-2.5 pitches. Then, a 5 m triangular wall is bypassed on the right, belays via outcrops. Steep slabs are climbed via ledges and cracks (pitons). Then, the ridge becomes steeper with 2-4 m walls bypassed on the right and left via ledges and slabs covered in ice. Yellow blocks - pylons cross the ridge and are bypassed on the right via wall ledges in traverse with exit onto the ridge - 2.5-3 pitches. Total of 3 hours of climbing.

5. Height difference — 1800 m, average steepness — 42°, length of sections 6 — 40 m, steepness 80°. 5 — 570 m.
6. Pitons driven: | Ice screws | Rock pitons | Nuts | Bolt pitons | | :-----: | :------: | :-------: | :---------: | | 187 | 25 | 51 | 0 | | 0 | 0 | 2 | 0 |
7. Total travel time — 23 hours.
8. One bivouac on Katyn Plateau — on ice.
9. Leader: Sergey G. Bayanin Master of Sports of the USSR Team members:

Base camp “Bezengi” till the night stop on the Southern ridge of Utug spire - see description 18. From the night stop descend to the glacier above the third stage of the icefall and cross it to the right towards the Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov. Through the bergschrund, ascend a steep 100-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov, left of the rocky spire Medved (Bear). On the saddle - a bivouac, from “Bezengi” base camp - 10–12 hours. From the bivouac:

• Bypass the rocks of the buttress on snow to the left.
• 300-meter ascent on the snowy Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov, not reaching 60–70 m to the black rocks.
• To the right, exit to a steep ice-snow slope below the Western wall of peak Tikhonov.
• Along it, 250–300-meter traverse (pitons! rockfall!) with a descent from it along the snowy ridge to the Krumkol collapse plateau. From the bivouac on the Northern buttress of peak Tikhonov - 4–5 hours. In the collapse:
• Bypass the spire by a 30-meter traverse to the left or right along simple icy rocks (protection!).

58. Krumkol via the West Ridge — Category 4B difficulty (N. Chekmarev and V. Proshina — August 23, 1938; Fig. 19). The path from the "Bezengi" alplager to the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak see in description 42. The path from the fork of the Dykhsu and Karasu gorges see in description 43. On the Krumkol glacier below the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak — a bivouac. From the glacier, ascend via the snowy slope and easy rocks on the left side of the counterfort, left of the snowy couloir descending from the saddle of the West Ridge of Krumkol peak, then via steep snow and moderately difficult rocks (pitons!) upwards — exit right onto the counterfort. Ascend via easy rocks of the counterfort. After 60–70 m, descend into the snowy couloir and ascend via it, sticking to the left rocks. From the bend of the couloir, 70–80 m upwards via the rocks on its left side (pitons! "live" rocks!), then left — upwards onto the snow patch of the counterfort. From it, upwards via moderately difficult rocks of the counterfort. From under the wall, traverse right and upwards through the couloir onto the rocks on its right side (pitons!). Via smoothed 50-meter rocks, ascend to the West Ridge of Krumkol peak (pitons!). From the initial bivouac — 6–7 hours. From the saddle, ascend via the easy snowy West Ridge of Krumkol peak. The first gendarme is passed via easy rocks of the ridge. Further:

• 200–220 m upwards via the snowy-icy ridge (cornices!) and slope under the second gendarme;
• via steep moderately difficult rocks — 40-meter ascent to the gendarme and from it, a 20-meter descent;

ASCENT DOCUMENT

ASCENT MADE IN THE 1971 USSR ALPINISM CHAMPIONSHIP

1. Ascent category — technical.
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Bezengi alpine camp.
3. Ascent route — peak KRUMKOL, 4550 m via North wall
4. Ascent description: traverse, 1678 height difference 1550 m (1184 zep) average slope 50°, (470–1000 р.) length of difficult sections 1000 m.
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 100, ice — 50, bolted — 0.
6. Number of climbing hours — 40.
7. Number of bivouacs: 4, lying down.
8. Team name — Bezengi alpine camp team.

Route description for Peak 4500 "Kundyum-Mijirgi" via the southeast ridge, category 3B difficulty.

Day I

Ascent to the third step of the "Kundyum-Mijirgi" icefall. (Refer to the route descriptions for Peak 4500 via the western ridge, category 3B difficulty, and via the northern ridge, category 3A difficulty.)

Day II

From the campsite on the third step, ascend to the plateau located above the fourth step of the icefall. The fourth step is bypassed either on the left along the rocks or through a labyrinth of crevasses in the middle part. Traverse the plateau, staying on its left side, towards the saddle between the "Ptitsa" peak and Peak 4500. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy couloir (with rock outcrops in the upper part), staying on the right side. The rocky gendarme (1) in the ridge between "Ptitsa" and Peak 4500 remains on the right. The ascent from the campsite on the third step to the saddle takes 2–4 hours. From the saddle, proceed along the ridge (moderately difficult rocks) for 6 rope lengths to a rectangular gendarme (rock) 4 m high. The rock is a key point on the route. For a team of 4, the following order is recommended for passing the rock. The first climber from the first rope team approaches the inner corner of the rock along a sharp snowy ridge and drives in the first piton for self-belaying and setting up a belay.

ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF VOSTOCHNAYA MIZHIRGI VIA THE SOUTH FACE (FIRST ASCENT)

The ascent was made by the group of the Moscow City Council of the DSO "TRUD" consisting of:

1. FINOGENOV M.A. — Master of Sports (leader)
2. Puchkov L.N. — 1st sports category (participant)
3. Tkachenko A.N. — 1st sports category (participant) The group was on the route from July 8 to July 14, 1963. Base — "Bezengi" alpine camp. The route (traverse of Vostochная and Zapadная Mizhirgi peaks) with ascent to Vostochная Mizhirgi via the South face was planned as a training traverse of both Mizhirgi peaks before the ascent claimed for the USSR championship, and was carried out in conjunction with the group of the DSO "TRUD" from Leningrad led by SOLONNIKOV V.A.

ROUTE TAKEN BY THE GROUP VIA THE SOUTH FACE OF VOSTOCHNAYA MIZHIRGI

The South face of Mizhirgi has attracted the attention of our sports group over the past few years. This massif, never climbed before, is of great interest. During a training ascent to the summit of Krumkol from the south, we thoroughly examined the face of Mizhirgi peak and outlined several options for the first ascent. Photographs and sketches were made.