Technical photography of the route

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Route description

R0–R1. The route begins from a small hut located at the foot of the ridge. Movement is along the snowy slope along the ridge on the right (orographically) below the rock outcrops, in the direction of a large rock ledge. Movement with alternating belay, through ice screws (under the snow — sections of ice). 770 m. 45° II. R1–R2. The rocky ledge of the ridge is bypassed on the right (orographically), exit to the icy slope leading to the crest of the North ridge. Movement with alternating belay, through ice screws. 50 m. III. R2–R3. Further — along the gentle snowy ridge in the direction of the summit (exit of destroyed rocks). Simultaneous movement. 250 m. I.

Photo illustration of the report

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Passport

1. Climbing category — first ascent.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofia Glacier area.
3. Peak Brat via N slope.
4. Proposed 2A category first ascent.
5. Height 3700 m, elevation gain 260 m, length 680 m.
6. 4 ice screws.
7. 13 hours of climbing time.
8. No overnight stay required.
9. Leader Mokhova Valentina Mikhailovna, 1st sports category.

Passport

1. Category of first ascent.
2. Altai, South Chuya Ridge, Sofiyskiy Glacier area.
3. Peak Pamyati Voskhoditeley na Everest (3) via N ridge.
4. First ascent of category 3A difficulty is proposed.
5. Height 3720 m, elevation gain 450 m, length 1520 m.
6. Pitons: 16 ice screws for protection.
7. Climbing time 12 hours.
8. Overnight stays: not necessary.
9. Leader: Mokhova Valentina Mikhaylovna, 1st sports category.

Passport

1. First ascent
2. Altai. South Chuya Ridge, Akkol river gorge
3. Mt. Yablinsky V. via E slope of N ridge
4. Proposed category 3A, complexity level 2B
5. Height 3650 m, elevation gain 400 m, distance 700 m
6. Pitons: ice screws 12 pcs.
7. Climbing hours 10 from bivouac to bivouac 5 h from glacier to glacier

Route Descriptions for Climbing Fregat Peak

Via the Central Counterfort, Category 2B

From the base camp, move along the right bank of the Ulun River towards Fregat Peak, heading towards the central counterfort. After 1 hour, start ascending via the couloir, keeping to its right side. In the upper part, the couloir becomes steeper, leading to a wide snow-ice chimney. Climbing is tense. In the upper part of the chimney, there are "live," slightly overhanging, crosswise blocks that require careful passage. It is recommended to set up a station or belay above them, in the lower part of a small chimney that leads to the ridge. Further movement is possible:

• Simultaneous or alternating movement to the gendarme (the first key point of the route). A sloping shelf to the right of it transitions into a steep, snow-covered wall with ice in the crevices. After passing it, we enter a steep internal angle with smooth walls, leading to the top of the gendarme, where a station needs to be set up. Subsequent movement occurs strictly along the ridge, requiring accuracy and attention. After the ridge, depending on the route's condition, one can:
• Go through an icy chimney with a transition to the wall and ascend it to the left,
• Or move along the right wall of the chimney, only reaching the wall in its upper part. The last 40 meters of the counterfort, as well as further movement along the ridge to the summit, must be done in alternating steps, carefully belaying, as a fall from here could have the most severe consequences.

V. MUNKHU ZHIK (3577) via N glacier "tie" from N col - 4B cat. diff. sec. R0–R1: The route starts under the ice "tie", left of the center; a firn slope gradually gains steepness. The passage is made in crampons; in the upper part, the firn disappears. sec. R1–R2: The steepness increases; the passage is made in crampons on front points with the help of ice axes. approx. 45° E 12

Ascent Report

Within the framework of the Russian mountaineering championship. High-altitude-technical class. Shtyk–Nozh Peak (2540 m)

• North counterfort of the "Shtyk" bastion
• East edge Route 6A cat. diff. (proposed), first ascent, first ascent. Ikatsky Ridge, Barguzin River valley, 9.9. Team Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants: Ilyinsky V.A.

Ascent Passport

Ascent Passport

1. Central Karakoram, upper reaches of Baltoro Glacier.
2. Broad Peak (8047 m), Southwest Face, first ascent
3. Submitted as category 6B complexity
4. Route type – combined
5. Route height difference – 3247 m Route length – 6067 m Section length: category V – 93 m, category VI – 12 m. Average slope: main part of the route (sections R18–R70) – 54°, entire route – 31.5°.
6. Pitons left on the route: total – 0, bolted – 0

Report

On the ascent of Wetterhorn peak (Alps, Switzerland) via the SW slope and SE ridge ("Classic") 2B category of complexity by the team of Demchenko Moscow CSKA on August 4, 2019

I. Climbing Report

Report

On the ascent of the KAiS MEI team to the summit of Gran Paradiso (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge, category 3B. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park Leader: Toporkov A.V. Senior Coach: Korochkov A.S.

Climbing Passport

1. Italy. Graian Alps, Valle d'Aosta region (Valle d'Aosta) Gran Paradiso National Park. Section 10.3 of the mountain peak route classifier
2. Gran Paradiso peak (4061 m) via the North Face and Northwest Ridge
3. Category 3B, ice and snow terrain
4. Elevation gain of the main part of the route: 300 m, total route: 400 m Route length: 870 m.