EXPEDITION OF THE ROSTOV REGIONAL COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS TO THE SOUTH-WEST PAMIR REGION IN 1973.

Climbing Report

on the unnamed peak 5500 m via the south-eastern ridge — first ascent, category 2B difficulty. Climbing team members:

• Shalagin A. — 1st sports category — team leader
• Kolyshkin V. — 1st sports category — participant
• Makarenko B. — 1st sports category
• Fedorov A. — Master of Sports — trainer-observer
• Myasin P. — 1st sports category — participant
• Osipov N. — 1st sports category — participant

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: SW Pamir, Vnukut valley
3. Peak 5580 m (Shyulyay South peak) via the S ridge
4. Category 2B difficulty, first ascent
5. Route description: 300 m elevation gain, average slope 45°. Section lengths: 1 – 855 m, 2 – 325 m, 3 – 28 m.
6. Pitons: 1 rock stopper for belay
7. Climbing time: 9 hours
8. Number of bivouacs:
9. Team leader: Navickas Stanislovas, Ivanovich Iskr; team members: Rauba Gediminas, badge holder

4.II.60

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: SW Pamir, Vnukut valley
3. Peak 5580 m (g. Shyaulyay South) via South Ridge
4. Proposed category 2B, first ascent
5. Route characteristics: height difference 300 m. Average steepness 45°. Section lengths: 1st category difficulty 855 m, 2nd category difficulty 325 m, 3rd category difficulty 28 m.
6. Pitons used: for belay Rock pitons: —

67

Alpinist Activity of the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR

Report on Category 2B Climb

On the first ascent to peak 5879 m (KPI) via the Western Counterfort by the team from the Sports Committee of the Lithuanian SSR (South-Western Pamir, Shakhdarin Range, Vakhan Range, Chondzhirav gorge). Leader: BAYORENE Yu.G. Team Coach: GUDIALIS A.V. A. Bloshkis O. Usikas 780, 2200, 30°, 6 m, 5 hours traverse. Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Lithuanian SSR — 232675, Lithuanian SSR, VILNIUS, Zhemaites 6, tel. 63-53-53

Description and General Ascent Plan

Day 1

From the base camp located on the lake shore, next to the lateral moraine of the Abdukagor glacier (altitude 4000 m), the route passes along the left-bank moraine of the glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. We crossed the merged Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers and again reached the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, where it sharply turns southeast (1 hour). A trail along the moraine leads to a flat area with water (1 hour). Slightly above the area, we descended from the moraine onto the glacier and began to move towards the middle part of the icefall formed by the left (orographically) branch of the Abdukagor glacier (30 minutes). The path goes:

• initially to the right,
• and higher - to the left (in the direction of travel) of its middle part (1 hour). The icefall is traversed in crampons. Above the icefall, there are three not very steep rises of the glacier, alternating with more gentle sections, which lead to the pass plateau. The glacier is heavily crevassed and covered with snow. Elevation gain from the icefall to the Abdukagor pass:
• 500–600 m

Early in the morning, with 250 kg of cargo on the sleds. Having descended along the gentle snowy slope from the pass to the Fedchenko Glacier, we turned south, crossed the glacier, and approached the slopes of Pik Peredovoy. Here, the next intermediate camp was organized. The transition with sleds from the cave to the bivouac under Pik Peredovoy takes 10-12 hours.

3rd day

The group departed from the intermediate camp under Pik Peredovoy at 17:00 in the direction of the "rusty" counterforce. A long ridge branching off from the summit 6525 m in the western direction divides the cirque of Pik Revolyutsii into two parts: northern and southern. The northern part of the cirque is a series of gradually rising plateaus with sections of relatively steep ascent between them. In the upper part, there is a heavily broken icefall, which can be bypassed under the slopes of the western ridge of the 6300 m summit, and then a passage along huge snowfields is possible to the ridge of the 6525 m summit. The group rejected this path and chose a more logical and shorter route: into the southern part of the cirque, which is located somewhat lower and more gentle. Having bypassed numerous crevices, we approached the foot of the "rusty" counterforce. There is a convenient platform and water (3 hours).

4th day

From the bivouac, the group departed at 8:00 am. The ascent goes along a wide snow-ice couloir, the first from the "rusty" counterforce. The neighboring couloirs are narrow, steep, and covered with flow ice in the upper part. The path through the couloir:

the couloir between the rocky outcrops in the direction of the right lowering in the ridge. At first the snow is loose, then the slope becomes steeper, and the snow becomes hard. Movement along the ridge is via small snow hollows, and then through a narrow col we emerge onto a gently rising scree. Then again a snowy ascent and the path goes along a gently sloping ridge with alternating small snowy ascents and depressions. The snow is loose and friable, and in some places there are patches of flow ice. The summit itself is a large snow dome with a steep wall on the approach side (3–4 ropes). The ascent to the summit is in the middle part of the wall, as there is ice near the rocks, and movement along the rocks is very dangerous due to their instability. The movement is varied (from the snow plateau to the summit — 3 hours). The group reached the summit

Ascent to the summit Bezymyannaya

The summit Bezymyannaya is located at the southern end of the Akademii Nauk ridge in the immediate vicinity of the Abdukagor-II pass, in a cirque formed by the peaks 6060 m and Vysokiy Tanymas. The height of the summit is 5814 m. The easiest route runs along the south-eastern ridge of the summit - the first ascent route. The route is snow-ice.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdukagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here the moraine descends and has a convenient exit onto the ice. Further, the path goes:

• through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one;
• and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdukagor glacier, which rises steeply upwards (1 h). Along the trail, we ascend to the Abdukagor glacier's icefall, where there are level areas with water (1 h). After resting on the platforms, we pass the icefall in teams and on crampons (40 min). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°). The glacier is closed, but in places heavily broken. We move all the time in teams. The ascent from the icefall to the pass is 500–600 m (3–3.5 h). Beyond the third ascent, the glacier flattens out and turns into a snow plateau. On the right (along the path) side of the plateau, a cave has been dug out, where we spend the night. Height 5100 m. There is water in the muldas on the plateau.

Day 2

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, range Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — 6277 (Peak Parrot), NE ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 760 m average steepness — 30°
6. Protection anchors driven: ice screws — 2
7. Number of climbing hours — 18
8. Number of nights on the route and their characteristics —

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru