The ascent route to the peaks "Sypuchaya" and "Obmanchivaya".

Description

Ascent to the peak "Obmanchivaya" in the Ugam range

Height 3900 m (above sea level). First ascent. The peak "Obmanchivaya" is located in the lateral ridge of the Ugam range, which stretches from southeast to northwest. To the northwest of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies the peak "Sypuchaya", and to the east, on the main ridge, lies the Unnamed peak. Three ridges branch out from the peak "Obmanchivaya": one stretches to the south, the second to the west, and the third to the east. Between the southern and eastern ridges lies a rock wall with a steepness of about 90° and a length of up to 300–400 m. Ascent routes to the peak "Obmanchivaya" are possible via the aforementioned ridges and wall. There is no glaciation on the peak "Obmanchivaya". From the intermediate camp located on the moraine by the lake, we depart at 5:00, moving eastward along the moraines, then turning north. The path lies between the terminal slopes of the ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the southern ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya", advancing on dense snow, with visible traces of avalanches that descended from the slopes of the peak "Sypuchaya". After 2.5 hours, we approach the western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya". To our left (in the direction of travel) lies the western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya", its southern side dropping off in walls, with snow not holding on them, thus the gorge is filled with snow. Between the Western ridge of the peak "Sypuchaya" and the Western ridge of the peak "Obmanchivaya" lies a narrow gorge, through which avalanches pass, as the ridges almost connect with a rock col.

Description

Via the Northwest Ridge

First ascent to the peak "Pioneer", height 3923 m

(above sea level), Ugam Range (Western Tian Shan).

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. Peak "Pioner" 3800 m via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 450 m, length of sections: 3rd category of difficulty — 96 m, 4th category of difficulty — 35 m, 5th category of difficulty — 36 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 10, placed cams — 4
7. Number of climbing hours — 10
8. Number of nights stayed — none
9. Full name of the leader and participants:

Ascent Logbook

I. Ascent category: Rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge: Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak "Sairam" 4238 m, via the center of the north face.
4. Proposed difficulty category: sixth, 5B
5. Route characteristics:
height difference — 830 m
length of sections with 5B–6 difficulty — 485 m
average steepness — 76°
6. Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors

Ascent Log

1. Rock climbing category.
2. Region: Ugam Range, Tian Shan.
3. Peak Sarnaygyr (3350 m) via the NE ridge.
4. Complexity category 1B rock, first ascent.
5. Route description: elevation gain from base camp — 1000 m.
6. Insurance organization: moving in teams with simultaneous insurance through ledges, a section of a sharp rocky ridge (100 m) with small walls requires alternate insurance.
7. Number of travel hours: ascent 5.5–6.5 hours, descent 2.5–3 hours.
8. Group composition:
   • Starikov G.A. — CMS

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area, ridge — Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. 4100 (p. Bratstva) via the North Ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3A cat. diff. (first ascent)
5. Route characteristics: — height difference — 500 m. — length of sections with 5–6 cat. diff. — none — average steepness — 50°.
6. Pitons driven:

f. 590 05 4/4–892 35/60 ASCENT PASSPORT TO THE "SOLIDARITY" PEAK VIA S.W. COUNTERFORT OF S RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY (tentative).

1. TYPE OF ASCENT — rock climbing.
2. ASCENT AREA — South-West Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sairam-Su gorge.
3. PEAK — Solidarity, 3600 m via S.W. counterfort of S ridge.
4. Difficulty category — 3B.
5. Height difference — 1045 m, average steepness 45°.
6. Pitons used: rock — 12/0, ice — 0/0, bolted — 0/0, utilized chocks — 4/1.

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Ugam Range (7.11), Sayram-Su gorge
2. p. (Sofia) 3100 m via NW wall (Sh. Rafikova, 1989)
3. Proposed 4B cat. dif. Repeat.
4. Route type: rock
5. Route height difference: 490 m Length: 515 m Section lengths:

• 2–3 cat. dif.: 120 m
• 4 cat. dif.: 125 m

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class - rock 2. Ascent area - South-Western Tian-Shan, Chatkal Ridge 3. Ascent route - Traverse of Maly and Bolshoy Babaitag (Shakhtyor) from the south 3555 m 4. Estimated difficulty category - 2A 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2000 m average steepness - 25° 6. Number of rock pitons driven - 7. Number of overnight stays - 8. Number of walking hours - 9

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.