Ascents 2428

1. Class of Ascent: Rocky.
2. Area of Ascent, ridge: Central Altai. North-Tuy­sky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, route of Ascent: **P. Zelinsky 3500 m northern ridge.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 3B.
5. Characteristics of the route: Height difference: 1000 m. Length of sections: 5–6 c.t.: 200 m. Average steepness: 50-60%.
6. Number of piton drivenforbelay: Rock.
7. Number of travel hours:16–17 hrs.

Passport

1. Region — Altai, Shavlo gorge, KMGV section number — 1.2.
2. Summit — Pik Kapitsy P.L. (3720 m), category 3B.
3. Proposed category — 3A, first ascent.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Height difference 700 m (by altimeter). Route length m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty m, VI category of difficulty m. Average slope: main part of the route — degrees, whole route — degrees.
6. Approach to the key point in crampons, belay through rock formations, 1 rock anchor hammered.

Central Altai. North-Tuinsky ridge. 112. Ridge. 113. Peak, its height, ascent route: 114. Khrasavitsa 3700 m via the northern wall 115. Required difficulty category: 3 116. Route characteristics: Terrain height 1200 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — Average steepness 40–50° 117. Number of insurance hooks: Steel 6, Aluminum 3 118. Number of via ferrata pegs: 14–16 pcs. 119. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader and participants and their qualification:

Via the North Ridge, Cat. 1B diff.

From the base camp, follow the right bank of the right tributary of the Ulu river. After 20–25 minutes of walking, start ascending via a snowy couloir left of the rightmost buttress of the summit. Having ascended 80 m, move right onto the buttress and continue along it. The team moves simultaneously in rope teams across несложным засneженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks). Before reaching the North Ridge, leave the buttress to the right and exit onto the snowy slope, bypassing the "gendarme". The ascent to the ridge takes 1.5–2 hours from the start of the climb. Once on the North Ridge, move right in rope teams. After 150 m of simultaneous movement on dense névé, you will come to a small dip in the ridge — a 4 m wall. Continue with alternate protection for 120 m. There are snowy cornices on the right side of the ridge in places. Organize protection using rock projections. Then, proceed 100 m across несложным заснеженным скалам (uncomplicated snowy rocks) to reach the summit. The summit is a small rocky area. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route with rappel lines hung practically along the entire ridge section of the route:

• Descending from the summit along the ridge takes 40–50 minutes.
• Descending from the ridge along the buttress takes 20 minutes. Total ascent time is 5–6 hours.

Route Safety Assessment

The main hazard for climbers are the snowy cornices along the 250 m long snowy ridge. When descending from the ridge via the couloir and potentially cutting into the snowy slope, beware of:

• avalanches.

Recommendations for Subsequent Groups on Gear Usage and Route Specifics

1. via the left edge of the E. ridge, 2B
2. via the right edge of the E. ridge, 4A

Via the right edge of the Eastern ridge, 4A category of difficulty

From the base camp, having ascended to the terrace on the left bank of the Ulun river, proceed to the gorge of Mt. Tsoy to the start of the route. This takes 1–1.5 hours. Then:

• Ascend 200 m along the snowy slope;
• further, move along the slabs and internal corner to reach a snow shelf 30 m;
• at the upper part of the corner, there is a plug and an awkward transition;
• then move 160 m along moderately difficult rocks to the base of a large "gendarme" — it is clearly visible from below;

Ascent Record

1. Ascent category — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Kuznetsky Alatau, Tiger Tysh ridge.
3. Summit — Bolshoy Zub (2045 m) via the center of the North face.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 3B, for winter conditions, the route is combined.
5. Length — 540 m Length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 160 m. Height difference — 380 m. Average steepness of the wall section — 63°. Average steepness of the entire route — 51°.
6. Number of pitons driven: | rock | wired | ice | | :--: | :-----: | :-: |

Ai-Petri (Main Peak) via South Ridge, Category 3B

R0–R1 To the right of the main couloir, ascend leftwards and upwards along an inclined ledge to the beginning of the south ridge. Access the south ridge via an 80-meter wall with very difficult rocks. Climb an 8-meter smooth wall by free climbing until a crack, then ascend using ladders and hooks. R1–R2 Continue rightwards into an internal corner, 7-8 meters, to a protruding cork, under which it is possible to set up an anchor. The protruding cork is overcome with the aid of:

• ladders,
• hooks,
• wooden wedges. Then, ascend 13-15 meters straight up along a crack that transitions into a crevice near a dried bush. This is a very challenging section. From the bush, ascend the crevice, then along an internal corner to access an inclined ledge. The ridge is 5-8 meters away. Here, it is possible to set up an anchor using a large pine tree. R2–R3 Continue along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, section length is 175 meters). Then, overcome 25 meters of medium-difficulty rocks along the ridge, bypassing the first and second sentinels on the left. Ascend a couloir to a saddle between a boulder and jagged peaks. The summit is 60 meters away.

Arfen Cher-burun — 4

Authors: Streltsov S., Zakutin A., Sevastopol city

"Piranha" Route 6A, VI, A3, 236 m, Cape Aya. Peak with elevation 235.2 m ("Arfen") Streltsov S., Zakutin A. September 8, 2002

Tactics for wall traversal. I. Main recommendations are presented in the description of the "OBA-NA" route, 6A - 2001.

II. Watercraft

In the 2002 season, we used paired mattresses inserted into a single protective cover, which allowed:

Phantom, 6А, А2, 6Б. A. Maksimenia. January, March 2008

First, about the motivation. After looking at photos with threads on Bolshaya Kilse Burun and finding a lot of free space for a new route, we decided that it was a good reason! The name appeared during the January ascent, when an old bolt was discovered near a good crack. This somewhat confused us and became the reason for the March ascent via a slightly altered line: on the lower yellow bastion - via a modified route, on the upper one - with our own pitch. The route is located above the forester's house (Romanovsky's). The approach to the start of the route from the house takes 2 hours. R0–R1 Up the crumbling rocks, aiming to approach the right part of the yellow bastion. Insurance is difficult. Anchors will help. Used one bolt of the yellow submarine (on the shelf, with a yellow loop). There is an intermediate hook. Driven deep, under the cord. Station on the first big tree. Section 50 m, 5c, A0. R1–R2 Further, via simple rocks (3rd category of difficulty), exit to a large shelf. Station on a tree at the edge of the shelf.

Maly Kilsе-Burun — 5B

The description was compiled by: Alexander Lav­ri­nen­ko, Odesa "Three Cornices" route by Yuriy Lish­aev 5B, VI, A2, 220 m The route starts from the left part of the "mould", 30–40 meters to the left of "Kop'e" ("German") R0–R1

• Up the wall with sharp holds, to a belay bolt 5–7 meters
• From the belay bolt traverse right to a crack
• Climb up the crack 10 m
• Then up a vertical slab with belay bolts A1, it's possible to climb Maly Kilsе "Three Cornices" 6A