Ascent Log

1. Ascent classification — technical
2. Ascent area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Ayuter gorge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — Mt. Mendeleevets, 4200 m, 6B ridge
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4A–3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — average slope 50°. Section lengths: R2 — 690 m, R3 — 350 m, R4 — 230 m, R5 — 65 m.
6. Pitons hammered for belay:
   • rock — 25
   • ice —
   • bolt —

1. Climbing category — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Tian Shan, ridge — Teskey Ala-Too
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: p. Mendeleevets, 4122 m, along the left edge of the northern wall triangle.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1000 m (wall part 680 m), length of sections with 5–6 category of difficulty — 375 m, average steepness of the wall — 70°.
6. Number of pitons and placements used: for belay 164, for TSD — 38.
7. Number of travel hours — 25 (including 21 on the wall).

Passport

1. Rock class
2. Tian-Shan, Ayuter gorge
3. Peak Mendeleevets along the left edge of the Northern wall of the triangle
4. 5B category of difficulty
5. Height difference: 840 m, length with the summit ridge - 1300 m, length of sections 5–6 category of difficulty - 380 m. Average steepness of main sections 75° (3400–3950), of which 5 category of difficulty 82° (3600–3950).
6. Pitons hammered:
   • rock: 102
   • bolt: 20
   • chocks: –

PASSPORT

1. Climbing category — ROCK CLIMB
2. Climbing area — Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge
3. Peak, height, ascent route: MENDELEEVETS, 4122 m, via CENTER OF THE NORTH FACE TRIANGLE.
4. Difficulty category — 5B (approximate). pr. 588, #6
5. Route characteristics: the wall section of the route is 583 m long, height difference is 1000 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category is 377 m, wall steepness — 68°
6. Pitons used: rock pitons 122/11, chocks 50/4, bolt pitons 2/0
7. Total climbing time — 20 hours, including 15 hours on the wall and 3 days.
8. Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: one lying bivouac in a tent.
9. Team composition:

ASCENT RECORD

1. Ascent class — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan.
3. Peak — Orto-Choku Eastern, height — 4000 m, ascent route — from the southeast.
4. Difficulty category — 3A.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain — 400 m, average steepness — 40°.
6. Pitons driven — 7 pcs.
7. Total climbing hours — 11.
8. Group composition:

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Tashtambek Gorge, Terskey-Alatoo ridge.
3. Tash-tuya Peak (Camel), height ~3900 m, Main Peak via South Peak, with ascent to South Peak via East ridge (first ascent)
4. Estimated difficulty category - 3B.
5. Height difference 500 m, average steepness ~45°
6. Pitons hammered for insurance: rock - 9, ice - none.
7. Departure and return date: July 24, 1977.

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: Technical
2. Climbing region: Tian-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tong pass area, Ashutor tract.
3. Peak, route: First ascent of the peak named "Tolomusha Okeeva" via the central couloir of the southern slope.
4. Expected category of difficulty: 2A.
5. Height difference: 1013 m.
6. Total route length: 2255 m.
7. Length of key sections: 358 m.

• Of which 2nd category of difficulty — 235 m.

Passport

I. Rock class. 2. Tian-Shan, Terskey-Alatoo ridge. 3. Tyulenina peak, 4100 m, via the East wall. 4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., 3rd ascent. 5. Height difference 600 m, length of sections with 5th cat. dif. 200 m, average steepness 54°, average steepness of the wall section 74°. 6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 56, nutcrackers — 15, including 5 for creating belay anchors 7. Travel time: 12 hours. 8. Overnight stay: one — under the route, lying down.

2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)

From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations for climbers

1. Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
2. Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
3. Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
4. Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
5. Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.