Report on the first ascent of the route to Yukspor (1,037 m) via the right-hand part of the SW ridge (“Surovaia zhenshchina” - "Severe Woman"), approximately category 2A difficulty.

Climbing Passport

1. Khibiny, section number 8.6.
2. Yukspor - 1,037 m; via the right-hand part of the SW ridge.
3. Proposed category 2A; first winter ascent.
4. Nature of the route - combined.
5. Height difference on the route - 600 m. Route length: 730 m. Length of sections with category 3 difficulty - 20 m. Steepness of the key part of the route - 75°; average steepness of the entire route about 45°.

Map of the Yumiechorr Ridge Area. Khibiny Mountains.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — combined.
2. Climbing area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, and route — via the spur and SW ridge of Yumiechorr ridge. Yumiechorr — 1097 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B category.
5. Route characteristics: wall height difference —
   • I — 1500 m
   • II — 100 m

Eastern summit of Ai-Petri. Description of the "New Moon" route

S. Cheterik on the R4–R5 section

First ascent impressions of "New Moon".

Early November, and it's warm outside — warm, you can even bask in the sun. But that's not the point. The purpose of the trip to Crimea was to make a first ascent on Ai-Petri. The organizer of all the ideas was Sergey Pugachev. For him, doing a first ascent is, in my opinion, a usual thing))), but for me it's a MEGa adventure! Five years ago, I dreamed of taking gear and climbing somewhere where no one had been before. The dream came true! The route starts to the left of the "grottos". To the right, under the beginning of the grottos, there's a good trail. Later, during the approach for processing, it's very beautiful to watch the sunrise from it. The beginning of the route is partially crumbling, some parts are climbed very well. I, of course, jumarred most of the route, but I got scared enough))). I want to climb it again, but this time all by myself, to feel what it was like for Sergey. So — see you on "New Moon". Chetyrnik Stanislav. Sergey Pugachev: I must say that "doing a first ascent" is not entirely an ordinary matter, although it has become familiar. There are two types of attitudes towards first ascents:

• do it for yourself; or do it faster, because it's a competition.

Ai-Petri (Western Peak) Category 3B

From the Host-Bash clearing (250–300 m), go upstream along the left (in the direction of travel) bank of the river, then ascend via a trail in the direction of the western peak of Ai-Petri, veering left and up. 25–30 m to the wall. The route starts four meters to the right of a well-defined chimney and proceeds 15 m up the wall at an angle of 75–85° to an overhanging boulder. Using the inner corner formed by the wall and this boulder, one can exit to a small ledge — a suitable spot for belaying. Next, move right and up through the inner corner, which after 10 m transitions into a chimney that narrows at the top. Exit through it onto a ledge where a pine tree grows

Aya — 13

Author: Alexander Lav­ri­n­en­ko, Odessa Samoded route, cat. 5B, VII-, A2, 480 m. We traditionally met 2005 in Batiliman. This time Sergey Pugachev and I decided to combine business with pleasure and repair the Samoded route on Aya. We did it on January 3-4, 2005, in rather bad weather. Now the route is in good condition:

• There are rappel rings at the belay stations (R1, R2, R3).
• The route becomes significantly easier afterwards.
• All stations are on reliable trees. The team Pugachev - Shvets also started repairing the Kornysy route (left of Vorota), but unfortunately, they didn't have time to finish it. Currently, the route is not passable - on the 5th rope, there is a rotten path with 7 bolts that can be broken by hand. Hopefully, we'll finish it someday. Unfortunately, there is no good photo of the Samoded route, but it's hard to get lost in the lower part: the relief is logical, and the bolts are clearly visible. The upper part is well seen on the photo. I'm not sure if our path in the upper part is the most logical, but it's at least not difficult, and those who want to can look for their own way.

Ai-Petri — 11

Author: Sergey Dashkevich, Yekaterinburg. Photos: Sergey Dashkevich, Yevgeny Novose­ltsev The weather was quite harsh, but that's what makes it more interesting. The route goes up the right part of the wall almost vertically. The start of the route is 15 meters to the right of a clearly visible sport climbing multi-pitch line. The rock here is very similar to the rocks at Koshka in Simeiz. It features the same honeycombed cavities, which provide excellent friction and allow for free climbing in many places. The first five pitches of the route are the key ones:

• Very steep
• With rare relief
• It's impossible to move by free climbing, organizing self-belay,

Alupkinskaya Wall — 3B.

«Ulfhednar», via the grotto of the eastern sector of the Alupkinskaya Wall, 5B

The route's length (excluding approaches, 150–180 m, 1A–1Б category) is 320 m, of which:

• 4th category — 25–30 m.
• 5th category — 130–150 m.
• 6th category — 100–120 m. In sections of 6th category:
• ITO complexity A2 — 18–20 m.
• A2,5–A3 — 7–8 m.

Alupkinskaya Wall — 1. "Compromise"

Alpinism Written by Kopteva, March 23, 2011 1:25 Photo by Sergey Bolkin. It impresses. Not with the presence of many rated routes, not with technically "beyond" relief, not with a loud, famous name, not at all. The wall is attractive because climbing it is guaranteed to be a separate, vivid adventure.

• Grand scale.
• Remoteness.
• Perhaps one of the most serious elevation changes on the Southern Coast of Crimea (YSC).
• And most importantly — you will be the first, because there are very few routes here. Long approach and even more interesting descent (well, for Crimea, of course), absence of civilization, water, possibility to "get out" at the slightest inconvenience to a bar on the coast.

Arfen-Cher-Burun - 1. "Mirazh" Route 6A, VI, A

First ascenders: S. Streltsov - A. Lyapunov (1992) The section from Sevastopol to Balaklava is a sheer coast, in some places up to 200 m high. The area is heavily eroded. There are no cliffs suitable for climbing. Mt. Arfen-Cher-Burun, East wall. Arrows at the bottom indicate the route start To the east of Balaklava, the picture changes dramatically. About 5 km from Balaklava, along the coast, a 235-meter vertical rocky peak rises straight from the sea. This is a spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun massif. It takes about 40 minutes to reach the foot of the wall by boat from Balaklava. Having a reliable floating craft is mandatory, as the first

Arfen-Cher-Burun — 2

Author: Pavel Slyusar, Kiev The story of climbing the "Rodeo" route 6A, VI, A3, 300 m To the southeast of Balaklava, approximately eight kilometers along the coastline, a 240-meter-high rock wall rises from the sea. This wall is a triangular-shaped cliff that closes the southwestern spur of the Arfen-Cher-Burun peak and is separated from the main massif by a deep gap. You can approach the foot of the wall by sea:

• in about an hour from Balaklava
• in half an hour from the Batiliman tract (Laspi settlement) The wall is striking in its steepness, regularity of shape, and smoothness of relief. It rises vertically from the sea and plunges just as vertically into the blue abyss to a depth of more than 80 meters. In the right part of the wall, like a silent guardian, a huge black cornice ominously overhangs the sea. When you sail away into the open sea, it becomes impossible to visually determine the proportions of the wall and the exact distance to it. Questions arise: