31. Marjani­shvili via Western ridge (combined route, category of difficulty 2B, fig. 5, 6). At the pass (m. 37) turn right and go along the snowy slope, then along easy rocks to approach the Big Gendarme of the Western ridge of Marjani­shvili. Steep easy rocks («loose» stones, pitons) provide 30–40 m ascent to the gendarme (cairn). From the gendarme a 35–40 m sport rappel descent follows to the saddle of the Western ridge. Further 80–100 m along easy, broken rocks of the Western ridge lead below a 15–18 m rock-step; overcome it along the slabs on the right side of the Western ridge. Further, along easy rocks, a 5–6 m snowy ascent, and talus of the Western ridge lead to the summit of Marjani­shvili.

Fig. 18.

228. Ti­kh­ten­gen South via the West Ridge (combined route by N. Popov, category 4B, difficulty level, fig. 18, 26). The path from the Bezengi alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) to the Kel pass is described in route 215. From the Kel pass, descend along the rocky western slope of the South Ridge onto the Oro­toka­ra glacier and, turning right, ascend on the right side of the glacier to the col of the Verkhniy Tsanner pass. From the glacier, cross the snow bridge over the bergschrund and make a straightforward ascent along the snowy slope to the col of the pass. From the pass, there is a steep descent along the icy-snowy slope with a large bergschrund in the lower part onto the upper plateau of the Tsanner glacier. Across the plateau (closed crevasses), staying close to the slopes of the Tikhtengen massif, approach the col of the Semi pass and ascend along the straightforward icy-snowy slope to it. From the Verkhniy Tsanner pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the Semi pass, there is a straightforward descent onto the upper plateau of the Kitlod glacier and along it (closed crevasses) — to the third, counting from the Semi pass, icy-snowy couloir of the West Ridge of the Tikhtengen peak. On the plateau under the couloir is the initial bivouac. From the Bezengi alpine camp — 8–12 hours. From the initial bivouac, ascend along the steep icy-snowy couloir — 200–

23. Sha­ri­tau via North Ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 5). From the East saddle of Shari­vcek Pass (point 18) descend 100–120 m down to the right along a gentle glacier (closed crevasses), then traverse 500–700 m to the right along a snowy slope below the steep East branch of Fyt­nargi­n glacier cirque. Further, ascend 250–300 m up a wide snowy gully — a couloir of the glacier between the cirque on the left and the slope of Sha­ri­tau North Ridge on the right, and ascend 15–30 m via easy ruined rocks to the saddle of Sha­ri­tau North Ridge — a false Shari­vcek Pass. 30–40 min from the pass. Here, turn right and follow a gentle ice-and-snow North Ridge to reach the Lower

116. Shkhara South via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (a combined route, G. Klimova, cat. 3B, fig. 20, 21). From the initial bivouac on the platform of the Eastern counterfort of Shkhara South’s Southern ridge (point 117), traverse right towards the Southern branch of the Shkhara glacier — between glacial drop-offs — and approach the rocks of the Eastern slope of Shkhara South’s Southern ridge. 200–250 m ascent up the heavily deteriorated rocks of medium difficulty with numerous talus shelves and short walls of above-medium difficulty, mainly bypassed (“live” stones, protection). Then 60–80 m up-left. Further, 500–600 m ascent

2. Varschava peak — Sella peak, traverse.

From the Dzhangi-Kosh hut, cross the crescent-shaped moraine, reach the Bezengi glacier and move along the "pocket" between the zone of marginal crevices and the S. slopes of Varschava peak until the glacier flattens out for 30–40 minutes (watch out! — prone to rockfall from the left, hidden crevices). To the left is a wide snow couloir, bounded on the right by the S. ridge of Varschava peak. Follow the snow on the left side of the couloir, then:

• left across the broken rocks
• up the narrow snowy couloir (if icy — along the rocky ridge to the left of the couloir)
• to the saddle on the SW ridge with a cairn. From the hut — 2 hours. From the saddle, move to the right or along the ridge line simultaneously with protection on the ridge's protrusions and bends. The rocky ascent of the ridge before the summit is bypassed on the left along an inclined ledge with piton protection, then 30 m of easy rocks. From the saddle to Varschava peak — 2 hours. From the summit, descend simultaneously along the easy, gentle rocky ridge to a dip. Descend into the dip with a double rope pull or with the last person using piton protection, then continue simultaneously along the ridge to its lowest point. The ascent to Sella peak initially follows a broken rocky, then a gentle, gradually widening snowy ridge. From here, in adverse weather conditions, it is possible to abandon the route along the S. spur — ridge. From the junction with the spur:
• simultaneously along the sharp snowy ridge with rock outcrops,

Climbing route description to Gerta-bashi peak (4200 m) from Ullu-Auz glacier — Category 1B From the overnight stay on the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, then left to bypass the ridge descending from the Dumala-Tau massif, and following the Dumala-Tau slopes along the glacier and snowfields — ascent to the middle plateau of the Ullu-Auz glacier. Then, via snowy slopes upwards, in the direction of the central rocky outcrop under Mira peak (above the outcrop are icefalls) to a snowy ledge-slope above the icefalls. Along the snowy ledge-slope above the icefalls 400–500 m leftwards upwards under Mira peak slopes (prone to avalanches and icefall) to ascend to Trud pass plateau. From the overnight stay — 5–6 hours. From the pass, leftwards via snowfields, slopes, and simple rocks to reach Gerta-bashi peak. Descent via the ascent route takes 2–3 hours.

Route Description — Ascending Gerta-Bashi Peak via the Northwest Ridge — Category III difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, bypassing the icefall of the Ullu-Auz glacier, to the middle snow plateau of the glacier, and along it to the left, under the right part of the Northwest ridge of Gerta-Bashi peak. From the glacier, ascend up a snowy slope and heavily broken simple rocks to the right of a small snowy couloir; after 40–50 m, move left, then 25–30 m through a rocky couloir to a ridge. Follow the ridge's moderately difficult rocks 90–120 m upwards (loose rocks!), then 60–70 m up steep slabs to beneath a vertical wall. Bypass the wall on the right via an 8–10-meter ledge. From the ledge:

• ascend 45–50 m up heavily broken rocks;
• then 25–30 m along an inclined slab under a large boulder on the ridge. From the boulder:
• ascend rightwards up a small snowy slope 30–35 m via slabs;
• then 35–40 m up a steep couloir (loose rocks) to ascend to the ridge's saddle between sharp gendarmes. From the saddle, move right. Bypass the sharp gendarme along the snowy plateau on the left; then follow a wide, simple horizontal ridge to reach a gap (cairn!).

Route to the summit of Джанги via NE ridge, cat. 4B (D. Kokkin, 1888)

The initial bivouac is at the Джанги-кош hut or closer to the route — on the snowy plateau (Шхара glacier) of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара under the base of the rocky spur of the NE ridge of Джанги-тау. Scheme of the 4B route via NE ridge. Photo from the Джанги-кош hut (A. Yurkin).

Approach to the route

1st option:

• Move along the Безенгийский glacier and further along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of its Eastern branch to the overnight stays located opposite the Southern cirque of п. Семеновского (5–5.5 hours from the alpine camp).
• Here, descend to the glacier and cross it, exiting under the icefall that flows to the left of the rocky base of the NE ridge of Вост. Джанги-тау.
• Ascend to the plateau of the northern cirque of Зап. Шхара via the icefall at a safe distance (with ice falls at the top) from the walls of the NE ridge, taking 3–4 hours from the moraine. 2nd option. Move along the right-bank moraine of the Eastern branch of the Безенгийский glacier to the "Austrian overnight stays" (5–6 hours), then:
• Descend to the glacier;