Route Description — Ascending Gerta-Bashi Peak via the Northwest Ridge — Category III difficulty.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine, ascend via grassy slopes and scree, bypassing the icefall of the Ullu-Auz glacier, to the middle snow plateau of the glacier, and along it to the left, under the right part of the Northwest ridge of Gerta-Bashi peak.

From the glacier, ascend up a snowy slope and heavily broken simple rocks to the right of a small snowy couloir; after 40–50 m, move left, then 25–30 m through a rocky couloir to a ridge. Follow the ridge's moderately difficult rocks 90–120 m upwards (loose rocks!), then 60–70 m up steep slabs to beneath a vertical wall. Bypass the wall on the right via an 8–10-meter ledge.

From the ledge:

  • ascend 45–50 m up heavily broken rocks;
  • then 25–30 m along an inclined slab under a large boulder on the ridge.

From the boulder:

  • ascend rightwards up a small snowy slope 30–35 m via slabs;
  • then 35–40 m up a steep couloir (loose rocks) to ascend to the ridge's saddle between sharp gendarmes.

From the saddle, move right. Bypass the sharp gendarme along the snowy plateau on the left; then follow a wide, simple horizontal ridge to reach a gap (cairn!).

Into the gap — 25 m rappel.

From the gap upwards:

  • bypass the first half of the ridge on the left via snow;
  • the second half on the right via a crack in an inclined slab.

Then follow the snowy plateau to beneath a 40-meter ice pitch, which should be traversed on the right via an ice-snow slope. Then, via snowy slopes, snowfields, and simple broken rocks, reach the summit of Gerta-Bashi.

From the overnight stay behind the moraine to the summit — 10–11 hours.

Descent — via the ascent route or along the snow-ice slope beneath Mira peak onto the Ullu-Auz glacier.

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