23. Sha­ri­tau via North Ridge (combined route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 5). From the East saddle of Shari­vcek Pass (point 18) descend 100–120 m down to the right along a gentle glacier (closed crevasses), then traverse 500–700 m to the right along a snowy slope below the steep East branch of Fyt­nargi­n glacier cirque. Further, ascend 250–300 m up a wide snowy gully — a couloir of the glacier between the cirque on the left and the slope of Sha­ri­tau North Ridge on the right, and ascend 15–30 m via easy ruined rocks to the saddle of Sha­ri­tau North Ridge — a false Shari­vcek Pass. 30–40 min from the pass.

Here, turn right and follow a gentle ice-and-snow North Ridge to reach the Lower Shoulder. Further:

• follow easy, heavily ruined, partially snow-covered rocks of the North Ridge,
• then follow a sharp snow-covered neck (cornice, protection) to come under the summit spire,
• via simple, heavily ruined, partially steep rocks of the North Ridge spire (protection) ascend to the summit of Sha­ri­tau.

4–6 hours from Shari­vcek Pass.