- Shkhara South via the Eastern slope of the Southern ridge (a combined route, G. Klimova, cat. 3B, fig. 20, 21). From the initial bivouac on the platform of the Eastern counterfort of Shkhara South’s Southern ridge (point 117), traverse right towards the Southern branch of the Shkhara glacier — between glacial drop-offs — and approach the rocks of the Eastern slope of Shkhara South’s Southern ridge.
200–250 m ascent up the heavily deteriorated rocks of medium difficulty with numerous talus shelves and short walls of above-medium difficulty, mainly bypassed (“live” stones, protection). Then 60–80 m up-left. Further, 500–600 m ascent up heavily deteriorated rocks of medium difficulty (piton), alternating with short walls and talus shelves of above-medium difficulty, bypassing difficult walls (protection), to reach a snowy-ice slope. 60–80 m ascent up a steep snowy-ice slope (avalanches, piton) to the Southern ridge.
Here, turn right and ascend along the gentle snowy-ice Southern ridge with a steep (piton) ascent to the summit of Shkhara South.
6–8 hours from the initial bivouac.
Fig. 21.