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Southwestern Pamir. Peak Shpil. Elevation (5527 m) 5568 m

Report on the first ascent via the eastern ridge, category 4A difficulty, made by a group from the Kharkov regional council of the "Avangard" sports society on June 20, 1973, consisting of:

• Slobodyanik L.I. – 2nd sports category – leader
• Spesivtsev A.E. – Master of Sports
• Kovalinskaya L.P. – 2nd sports category
• Eremenko G.N. – 2nd sports category Kharkov, 1973

Contents

Nartoscheme Vezdara

10–3 Pamir

scale 1 cm — 2 km

4980

2nd Ascent

Protocol of debriefing №3 dated July 28, 1980 Present: head of the gathering, senior coach, participants of the gathering. Debriefing of the ascent to p. Kirova (around 6500 m) from the north from the Valter Glacier, with ascent to the plateau via Borodkin's route. Group: leader - Shpynev G., participants Vorobiev A.N., Golovin A.V., Terekhov A.N. Leader Shpynev: On July 24, 1981 at 15:00 we left the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays, made a stop near the lake and at 18:00 approached the route. We spent the night on the Valter Glacier. July 25: At 6:00 we started on the route and by 10:30 we ascended to the campsite at 5200 m, where we stopped for 1.5 hours. Had lunch. At 12:00 we continued moving and by 20:00 stopped for the night 100 m from the "camel". On this section, we met a group from Voronezh, who were descending after completing the ascent (first ascent to p. Kirova from the north) via the same route. July 26: At 7:00 we started on the route. After reaching the ridge leading to p. Kirova, we put on crampons. We reached the summit at 12:00 and, without delaying, began our descent via the ascent route. At 15:30 we approached the overnight stay site, dismantled the tent, and continued our descent. At 19:00 we reached the Valter Glacier and the base camp of the Voronezh group. At 20:30 we arrived at the base camp for "dusty" overnight stays. The weather during the ascent was clear, with strong cold winds.

TIMING OF THE ROUTE: START: March 24, 1992 END: August 13, 1992 TEAM: PHIL THORNHILL, GREAT BRITAIN — SOLO. A. Start of the route. 2 hours B. Dawn. I quickly traverse the slope on easy terrain to bypass the icefall line. This traverse takes just under 1 hour. C. First technical difficulty:

• Loose, shallow snow on rocks.
• I have to pull my backpack behind me. D. Camp #1.

Report on Ascent to Pik Suloeva (5816 m) via the West Ridge

First ascent, approximately 4A category of difficulty (Protocol No. 313, 3A). Leader – Zaseckij V. G.

Fortambek Glacier Basin

The summit of Pik Suloeva (5816 m) is located in the eastern branch of the northern spur of the Peter I Range, branching off from Pik Moskva. The ascent to the summit was undertaken for acclimatization purposes, and therefore it was decided to climb the peak via the easiest route, which, after studying images of the summit from different sides, was assumed to lead to the summit from the Western cirque. The ascent was planned and prepared in Moscow. On July 17, 1969, at 6:00, the group consisting of Zaseckij, Grebenschikov, Bozhukov, Nadbah, Nevvorotin, and Poroshin departed from the base camp located in a pocket of the left-bank moraine of the Fortambek Glacier (see diagram). 3 hours of walking along the moraine with a marked path, and another 1 hour ascent along the lateral moraine of the unnamed glacier, and then along the glacier itself – exit into the cirque formed by the southern and western ridges of the summit. Here, on the median moraine, they prepared a site and set up a tent. After resting and having lunch at 16:00, when the daytime heat had subsided, Bozhukov, Grebenschikov, and Nadbah went on a reconnaissance sortie to the upper reaches of the "Novator" glacier, as the unnamed glacier was decided to be named. After 2 hours, they returned and reported that:

• There is, apparently, a good exit to the West Ridge beyond the glacier's bend;
• There is also an interesting path to the summit along the counterfort of the West Wall.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area — 0-3 Pamir, Rushan Range
3. Ascent route — first ascent of Peak Klunnikov S.I. (5,442 m) from the Raumid Glacier via the Klunnikov Pass.
4. Ascent description: elevation gain — 500 m (1,000 m from the bivouac) average slope — up to 40° length of difficult sections — 100 m
5. Pitons used: rock — 3, ice — –, screw — –
6. Total climbing time — 7 hours

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — V-3 Pamir, Rushan ridge
3. Ascent route — first ascent to Peak Korolev S.P. via the southern ridge 5525 m
4. Ascent characteristics:
   • height difference — 700 m (1100 m from the bivouac)
   • average steepness — up to 45°
   • length of complex routes — 200 m
5. Pitons hammered:
   • rock — 10

¹

1. DIFFICULT ROCK FORMATIONS
2. "КО­НЕК" (the "horse" or ridge)
3. SHELF ("POLKA")