А­Х­SУ via Western ridge, cat. 2А From the CSP:

• go up along the trail on the slope of the «Shkhelda gorge» — first through the forest, then along the grassy slopes — to the Shkhelda glacier;
• 300 m above the glacier's tongue, exit onto its lateral moraine;
• follow the moraine, keeping to the right bank of the glacier, and move about 500 m up the gorge;
• then exit to the right onto the trail;
• ascend along the trail on the grassy slope along the glacier to the clearing near the rocks with black stripes — Aristov's bivouac.

в. Бжедух, 4270 m, via North ridge, lс, 3Б cat. sl., L. Distel's route, R0. From Джантуган ASB we ascend to overnight stays below the "Red rocks". From the overnight stays we exit via the Кашка — Таш glacier in the direction of the big couloir of the north ridge of в. Бжедух. We ascend via snow in the couloir to the upper part of the rocky island. Traversing the destroyed rocks upwards to the right, we exit to the boundary of rocks and snow. In the upper part of the ridge we circumvent small rocky walls with a traverse to the left — upwards to the ridge (from overnight stays 90–120 min). On the ridge we move along the scree towards в. Бжедух. Having passed the wide part of the ridge along the screes to the rocky section rising towards the summit, we traverse 100–120 m. The descent from the ridge down to the Бжедух glacier is not difficult (from the start of the ridge to the descent to the glacier — 60–75 min). About an hour is needed to walk along the glacier to the snowy ridge, bypassing the gendarmes on the right. Further, the path goes along a snowy-icy ascent:

• At the end — an icy ascent.
• Move on front points with insurance via ice screws.
• In the upper part, icy overhangs loom.
• Pass the entire snowy ridge to the left of these overhangs (4–5 hours).

Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota

163. Peak Voenno-Morskogo Flota via the Western Ridge (Category 1B route, A. Zyuzin, B. Ginzburg, A. Matskevich, S. Naryshkin, L. Khodyush, July 9, 1939).

From the "Adylsu" alpine camp, follow the highway down the Baksan valley to the village of Kurmy. From the village, head right and up along a good path on the left bank of the Kurmychi river, past a waterfall and a meadow on a moraine. Then cross to the right bank of the river and follow it to the tongue of the Kurmychi glacier. Staying on the right side of the glacier, ascend the icefall to the snow plateau of the glacier. Above the icefall, turn right and exit onto the scree of the moraine under the southeastern slopes of Peak Aviatsii. Set up a base camp on the scree. Cross the Kurmychi glacier from the scree to the left (northeast) towards the saddle of the Western ridge of Peak VMF, located between this peak and a gendarme

Navy Route, Category 2B

Route Description

From the Dzhalyk alpine camp along the suspension road, follow the left moraine. At the top, transition to the right moraine. Along the right moraine towards the rocky outcrop between the moraines of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and the Severny Koyavgan Glacier. Below the rocky outcrop, traverse upwards to the right onto the scree. Follow the scree to the lake. Camping by the lake (2 hours 30 minutes from the base). From the lake, head to the left moraine of the Dzhalovchat Glacier and, leaving the southern buttress of the eastern ridge to the right, ascend the snowfield to the Dzhalovchat Pass (40 minutes from the lake). Along the right edge of the Kurmychi Glacier, reach a broad snow saddle (40 minutes from the pass).

• The large gendarme (located at the junction of the Eastern and Western ridges) remains on the right.
• Camping is possible on the saddle below the summit tower. From the saddle, ascend the summit tower on its left side, emerging onto a narrow ridge. Follow the narrow ridge to the summit. A two-meter wall is overcome directly. The ascent up the tower takes about 1.5 hours (40 minutes). Total time is around 4 hours.

336. Gvergishi­sher via North Ridge (rocky route, category 1B difficulty, fig. 32). From the village of Nakra, follow the trail up the left slope of the gorge. Then turn left and ascend along the stream to the left-bank moraine of the Gvergishi­sher Glacier. From the moraine, move up the glacier to the left. From the upper left corner of the glacier, ascend easy, heavily fragmented rocks of the couloir, then 150–160 m of straightforward steep rocks (belaying required) up to the North Ridge of Gvergishi­sher. Here, turn left and follow easy, straightforward rocks of the wide North Ridge; then ascend a 20–25-meter straightforward rock pitch to the summit of Gvergishi­sher. 2.5–3 hours from the moraine.

44. Maly Donguzorun from the south (route 1Б category). From the "Baksan" alp camp along the highway up the Baksan valley. Before reaching the "Itkol" hotel, cross the bridge over the Baksan river below the confluence of the Donguzorun river, and also over the Donguzorun. Then move along the gorge path, which goes through a beautiful dense forest almost without ascent along the right bank of the Donguzorun; further, the path rises sharply, exits the forest and leads to the Donguzorunkel lakes. From the second lake:

• along the right bank of the river flowing into it, go to the right-bank moraine of the Nameless glacier, lying under the southern slopes of the Maly Donguzorun peak;
• then ascend the moraine and at its end, turning right, descend to the talus couloir descending from the East ridge, to the right of a small snowy slope of Maly Donguzorun (from the second Donguzorunkel lake — 1.5–2 hours);
• on the right or left side of the couloir (rockfalls go along the couloir!) ascent to the talus,

Description, Marinuto

The path from "Terekos" to "Kurnik". At the beginning, at the 14-year end, it does not provide conveniently erroneous simple and impeccable things. From "Kurnik" common smooth and short and dry oxidations, refusing oxidations. Along the length of oxidation, given in oxidation, in 12–14 years at 8:00–10:00:

• refusing smooth
• not refusing oxidation yielding from the execution of skis. The violation is not violated for oxidation, gives and 10 m. Inside conveniently marinuto, violation. With a violation at the 14-year end, and 80 m. Inside, violation, on

1 reddish rock 2 north-west ridge 3 Descent route to Nrik-chat valley

RUSSIAN MOUNTAINEERING FEDERATION

ROUTE SCHEME

Peak Kavkaz, 4037 m via NW wall, left

South-east, 1B cat.

From Dombai clearing or h/c "Alibek" along the trail and grassy slopes and talus exit under Khrustalny pass, traverse steep spurs of the eastern ridge of Semenov-Bashi peak. Place for a bivouac — 3–4 hours. From the bivouac:

• Along a gentle slope in the direction of Khrustalny pass and, 100–150 m before the pass, left up a branched couloir.
• Up the couloir to the eastern ridge. Rockfall hazard!
• Then left along the ridge to the summit. Gendarmes are bypassed mainly on the right, downhill.
• At the beginning of summer — snow cornices on the north.