ASCENT DOCUMENT

2.7.68

1. Ascent category: combined
2. Ascent area: ridge — Caucasus, Tsey Valley, Kalper ridge.
3. Peak, height, route, route characteristics: Lagau, 4064 m via Western ridge
4. Proposed category: 2B
5. Pitons used: six
6. Route characteristics: height difference 600 m, average slope 30°.
7. Duration: 10 hours
8. Number of nights:

APPROVED CHAIRMAN OF THE VORONEZH REGIONAL COUNCIL OF DSO "ZENIT" A. PERSHIN "22" November 1972

Report

on the ascent of the Voronezh Regional Council of DSO "Zenit" team to the summit of Mamisong-hokh — 5B cat. dif. (4358 m) The ascent was made in the technical class competition for the primacy of the Central Council of DSO "Zenit".

IV. Route description

July 24. Departed from "Torpedo" tourist center at 5:00. Followed along the Tsey-don River to the Tsey Glacier, then ascended the glacier, passed through the "sheep's foreheads" and Khitsan pass, and reached the snow plateau of the North circus of the Tsey Glacier near the peaks of Mamisong-hokh and Changahi-hokh. Set up a bivouac on the snow plateau in front of the central ridge of the north wall of Mamisong-hokh, from where the route was conveniently observable. Directly in front of us was a snow slope descending from the ridge leading to the eastern summit. The base of the slope was broken by a wide bergschrund with high vertical walls.

ULARG SONGUT KOMSOMOLETS

Ascent Record

1. Technical category.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Range.
3. Uilpata (4649 m), via the 1st buttress of the South Ridge.
4. Proposed category: 5A–5B, first ascent.
5. Elevation gain: 1050 m; route length: 1640 m. Length of 5–6 category sections: 35 m. Average slope: 50° for the main part of the route, 45° for the entire route (from the bergschrund).
6. Pitons used:
   • rock pitons — 17
   • chocks — 29

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class
2. Ascent area — technical. Central part of the mountain range, between the peak to the Southwest and the saddle to the East.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: peak Ularg, 4320 m, via the bastions of the North face.
4. Expected difficulty category — 5B.
5. Route characteristics: Height difference — 1100 m, length — 1212 m, average steepness — 68°. Length of sections: 2 — 70 m, 3 — 25 m, 4 — 460 m, 5 — 430 m, 6 — 227 m.
6. Pitons hammered in: for belaying
   • rock — 104

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Chan Chakhi-Khokh (4453 m) via the route: North wall - right "bastion", from August 18 to 26, 1965. By the team of Kharkov regional council of the sports society "Avangard" led by NEBORAK V.S. Mt. CHAN CHAKHI-KHOKH 4453 m.

Team Composition

Leader: NEBORAK VALENTIN STEPANOVICH, born in 1930, Ukrainian, member of the CPSU, 1st sports category in mountaineering, architect.

Participants:

GRIGORENKO-PRIGODA YURIY IVANOVICH, born in 1935, Ukrainian, non-partisan, 1st sports category in mountaineering, electrical engineer.

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: