Map of the Yumiechorr Ridge Area. Khibiny Mountains.

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing type — combined.
2. Climbing area — Khibiny Mountains.
3. Peak, its height, and route — via the spur and SW ridge of Yumiechorr ridge. Yumiechorr — 1097 m.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 1B category.
5. Route characteristics: wall height difference —
   • I — 1500 m
   • II — 100 m

Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

The route was climbed in May 2013 by the team of Balabanov Nikita — Fomin Misha (Kiev). From the authors: initially, we planned to climb this route as a first ascent, however, starting from the grottoes, we found one or two old pitons on each rope pitch in the most difficult sections all the way to the yayla. That is, our ascent is at least the second one, and we did not find any information about the first. Therefore, we suggest naming the route "Through the Grottoes" — it reflects the distinctive feature of the entire route, and we hope that the unknown first ascenders would not be offended. The total time taken for the ascent was 16 hours. Alupkinskaya Wall, "Through the Grottoes" route, 5B, 290 m, VI, A2

Genesis on Masya via Castle

Written by ivantern, June 16, 2016 12:12 PM. Spring Crimea is so alluring, tempting to climb somewhere higher because it's still too cold to swim in the sea, and most cafes are not yet open, making the choice of where to go quite limited. Fedor and I, preparing for a competition in the rock climbing category, decided based on the description that it would be a good idea to practice some aid climbing on Masya, as a "warm-up" for Integral via Castle. On May 2nd, taking advantage of the sunny weather and light wind, we set out on the route. The guidebook promised entertainment at the level of A1–A2, but Fedor for some reason decided to climb it free. Not that we usually do that. No, we're not those who prioritize pure style, for example. But somehow it just happened that way. On Integral, we met a team of three quick climbers with one rope. They immediately told us that we should have started the route 10 minutes before them.

false. Station at the base of the chimney (old pitons) 10 m, 7–8. Up the chimney, initially difficult, the higher, the easier. Behind the chimney to the right - up the cracks, exit to the yayla. 47 m, 5A1

Uarch-Kaya

R4

R3­–R1­–R0 Red Fox 45 Shamoniya 215/4 A

Mer­dvеn-Ka­yasy — 14. “Present”

Massif: Mer­dvеn-Ka­yasy (Khergi­ani) 856 m Complexity: 4Б V A1 Author: Lavri­nenko A., Tsush­ko T. Year of creation: 2007 Number of pitches: 5 Length: 225 m Time to ascend: 4–6 hours Route description: The approach begins from the place where a dirt road leads to Khergi­ani rock. Follow the path upwards, bearing right, bypassing Khergi­ani rock, then ascend via a couloir with some simple scrambling to reach a large inclined grassy ledge. Follow the ledge upwards to the left for about 100 meters; the start is slightly above a deciduous tree, via an oblique crack. R0–R1 40 m Ascend the crack to the left and upwards for 7 meters, then continue upwards through a system of corners and slots; the climbing is steady, and protection is easy to organize. Equipment:

• medium and large cams
• stoppers The belay station is near a dry tree; there's a bolt and room for own pitons. IV

Merdven-Kayas — 9. "Easy Flirt"* — 385 m, VI, A3+, F6c, E4. Description

August 5, 2013 The route was ascended in a classic style, from bottom to top, without prior reconnaissance or processing from the top. The thread of the "Easy Flirt" route is indicated in white. Massif: Merdven-Kayas. This is one of the few massifs of great length in Crimea where there are still unclimbed main logical lines.

• Route length: 385 m
• Maximum complexity of free climbing sections: F6c, E4
• Maximum complexity of artificial climbing sections: A3(+)

Crimea, Paragilmen. "Through the Center of the Wall" Route 4A)

The route goes through the corners of the center of the wall, veering right in the upper third, leading to the "Shovel" summit. The route is significantly more challenging than the classic 3A route. It starts in the same place, but after the first corner, it doesn't go left, instead following the system of internal corners towards the cornice with a white spot underneath. "The Triple through the Chimney" 3A route - passage to the left; "Through the Center of the Wall" 3B (4A) route - passage to the right

Route Description:

0–1. Ascend sloping rocks to the left and enter an internal corner, then continue up the corner to a narrow chimney.

• Bypass the chimney by traversing to the right
• Then ascend
• Return to the left, into the system of corners (It's possible to go straight through the chimney, but it's significantly harder.) Continue up the corner to a ledge with a belay station. There are bolts and pitons. 43 m IV (10 m V)

So­kol — 47

Is­tukan 3B[#8]

(A. Kuz­mit­sky — I. Ar­temov, Feb­ru­ary 2006)

R0–R1: 40 m, 6a, A1+. Up left via the internal corner by simple climbing to a ledge with a tree, then up via a vertical crack by climbing interchanged with A1+ gear, with a gradual drift leftwards. Belay station on a ledge, on a juniper. R1–R2: 40 m, 4a. Straight up. Belay station on one of the large trees at the base of the ridge. R2–R3: 40–45 m. Simple traverse along the ridge, protection as necessary. Belay station on a tree left of the ridge base. R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5B. Up left — traverse via slabs to a system of cracks, via them up to a vertical wall (be cautious, loose rocks) and through it to a ledge. Landmark — a huge tree on the ledge. Protection is easy to arrange while climbing. Further along the ledge — traverse rightwards to the base of a leaning slab. Belay station on a large boulder. R4–R5: 25 m, 6A+. Up via the right part of the leaning slab (huge gap between the slab and the wall) with an exit onto it, further up via a bolt to a plateau. Belay station on a large characteristic pine tree 5–7 meters from the edge.

Recommended equipment:

50 m rope, 12–16 quickdraws, a set of nuts, large cams and hexes — 2–3 pcs., slings — 2–3 pcs., hammers, pitons.

So­kol — 29

Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 5B cat. dif.[№14]

(A. Kruglenko, aka «Ho­hol») Ho­hla po ze­re­ka­lam 2nd rope R0–R1: 50 m, 6B, A1. Up the crack through a characteristic tree, then up left to a neat traverse left to a piton. After it — a tricky move (hole). Station on a bollard and pitons. R1­–­R2: 50­–­55 ­m, 6B, A1. Up and slightly left via a system of cracks to a bollard, through it — exit to a flattening, then right up a neat traverse