Sokol — 47
Istukan 3B[#8]
(A. Kuzmitsky — I. Artemov, February 2006)
R0–R1: 40 m, 6a, A1+. Up left via the internal corner by simple climbing to a ledge with a tree, then up via a vertical crack by climbing interchanged with A1+ gear, with a gradual drift leftwards. Belay station on a ledge, on a juniper.
R1–R2: 40 m, 4a. Straight up. Belay station on one of the large trees at the base of the ridge.
R2–R3: 40–45 m. Simple traverse along the ridge, protection as necessary. Belay station on a tree left of the ridge base.
R3–R4: 40–45 m, 5B. Up left — traverse via slabs to a system of cracks, via them up to a vertical wall (be cautious, loose rocks) and through it to a ledge. Landmark — a huge tree on the ledge. Protection is easy to arrange while climbing. Further along the ledge — traverse rightwards to the base of a leaning slab. Belay station on a large boulder.
R4–R5: 25 m, 6A+. Up via the right part of the leaning slab (huge gap between the slab and the wall) with an exit onto it, further up via a bolt to a plateau. Belay station on a large characteristic pine tree 5–7 meters from the edge.
Recommended equipment:
50 m rope, 12–16 quickdraws, a set of nuts, large cams and hexes — 2–3 pcs., slings — 2–3 pcs., hammers, pitons.
General impressions:
A short interesting route with diverse climbing and various types of protection. The first pitch is of 5th grade difficulty, so the route can be recommended for:
- those who want to warm up before tackling 5th grade routes on the southern wall of Sokol,
- or, on the contrary, for those who want to try themselves on a relatively easy route with a challenging 5th grade pitch.
Average completion time is 2.5–3.5 hours.
