ASCENT DOCUMENT.

1. Technical category, combined route.
2. Central Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky Ridge.
3. Malaia Nakhashbita, 4300 m, South Ridge.
4. Category 4B difficulty.
5. Height difference 600 m; average steepness of rock sections determining the route complexity is 65°; total length of these sections is 200 m; total route length is 1450 m.
6. Pitons hammered for protection: rock — 22, ice — 13, used chocks — 21.
7. Travel time is 15 hours.
8. One overnight stay on a snow-ice knife-bridge before the "Big Gendarme" on the route.
9. Group leader: BRINK Ivan Yuryevich — 1st sports category. Group members: OVCHINNIKOVA Galina Nikolaevna — 1st sports category, KREMEN Anatoly Alekseevich — 2nd sports category, CHERNOV Alexander Alexandrovich — 2nd sports category.

Route Description

to the peak Bezimannyy (3620 m) from the West via the southern ridge (route is combined, 1B category of complexity) Tebi glacier. Conditional name “Peak of the 50th anniversary of Rostselmash”

Chirch Ridge. Peak 3620

In the long northern ridge-spur (Chirch ridge) of the Gebi-Tau peak, dividing the valleys of the Khares River to the west and Karaugom to the east, near the Gebi-Tau peak to the south, in the upper reaches of the Gebi glacier to the west and Bartuy to the east, there is an unnamed rocky peak with a height of 3620 m. In July 1979, a team of climbers from the “Planet” club of the Rostselmash factory ascended to this peak from the Gebi glacier via the southern ridge. On the summit:

• a memorial obelisk was erected in honor of the 50th anniversary of the award-bearing Rostselmash factory;
• the peak was named “Bezimannaya”. The route is approximately 1B category of complexity.

54. Rtsy­vash­ki — G­yul'­chi (combined route by I. Leonov, category 4B, fig. 14). From the tourist center lodge under the slopes of the North-Eastern ridge of the Nameless peak, on a wide grassy clearing in the Kara­su valley, on the right bank of the Dykh­su river, at the entrance to the canyon of the same name (group of 4-8 people), descend along the trail to the Kara­su river and cross it via the bridge. From the river, ascend along the grassy slopes, then along the scree and simple, destroyed, partly steep rocks to the 1st gendarme of the South-Western ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki peak. Further along the long, destroyed, simple and moderately difficult, partly snowy (possible cornices) rocky South-Western ridge with short sections of above average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on or bypassing them, approach the Big Gendarme. From here, along the snowy steep rocks of moderate and above

False Sugan

The summit of False Sugan (3900 m) is located in the ridge-crutch connecting the Sugan ridge with the Main ridge, between the peaks of South Sugan to the south and (beyond the Gülchi pass) Sugan-Tau to the north. The summit is snow-covered, its rocky slopes and ridges are simple, heavily destroyed. The only ridge route, laid from the Gülchi pass, was climbed on August 17, 1933, by N. Moroz, A. Zhukov, A. Gerasimov, K. Rossiy.

46. False Sugan via North Ridge (combined route, III category of difficulty, fig. 2, 12).

From a large boulder in the upper left corner of the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4-8 people) traverse:

• left-upwards through the grassy and talus slopes of the Nakhashbita massif,
• the middle part of the moraine deposits of the Maly Nakhashbita glacier,
• then a grassy slope under the walls of the South ridge of the South Doppakh peak. Bypassing the ridge of South Doppakh from the left, ascend a steep grassy slope 300 m to the right to the terminal moraine of the Doppakh glacier (rockfall possible from the slopes of the peaks when approaching the Doppakh glacier). The moraine of the Doppakh glacier can also be reached along the right bank of the Orsdon river. Then ascend the right-bank moraine, then exit left onto the Doppakh glacier and traverse along the moraine to its end. From here, ascend the glacier, crossing it to the left, to the rocky platforms of the Eastern counterfort descending from the South ridge of the Sugan-Tau peak, to the right of the visible Gülchi pass. From the "Nakhashbita" clearing, 3-4 hours. On the platforms - initial bivouac.

57. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:

• overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
• descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
• from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton

56. Sugan Yuzhny — Lozhny (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Yuzhny Sugan is described in route 47. From the summit, descend via a simple snow-covered rocky couloir on the right side of the Northern ridge. Descent along the ridge is also possible but more difficult. From the couloir, traverse steep, partially broken, medium-difficulty (belay required) rocks on the right side of the ridge to reach a saddle below the I gendarme. Overcome the gendarme directly via simple and medium-difficulty rocks to the second saddle. From the saddle, traverse simple and medium-difficulty broken rocks on the right side of the ridge («live» stones — belay required) to bypass the rocky «saw» — several

58. Sugan Uzlovoy — Maly (Sugaev's combined route, category 5A, fig. 2, 11). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Uzlovoy Sugan is described in route 39. From the summit:

• descend 60–80 m down simple snow-covered rocks of the steep, narrow southeastern ridge (insurance);
• then along a snowy 30-meter col (cornice) approach the base of the summit tower of Central Sugan;
• from the col, ascend a 9–10-meter slab with few handholds;
• traverse right-up the slope to the ridge, and ascend the ridge to a shoulder;
• from the shoulder, descend 5–6 m;

Fig. 9 36. Suganbashi via North-Eastern Ridge (combined route by M. Lepnev, 3B cat. diff., Fig. 9). From the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu River, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita Glacier (group of 4-8 people), ascend along the moraine ridge into the gorge. Then exit right onto the Nakhashbita Glacier, cross it upwards to the right, and approach the right side of the North-Eastern ridge of Suganbashi peak. Approach route:

• From the base camp - 3-4 hours.
• From the "Nakhashbita" clearing - via Doppakh or Sugan pass (described in routes 17, 22, 26, 28). On the Nakhashbita Glacier, below the North-Eastern ridge of Suganbashi, is the initial bivouac. From the glacier, ascend a gently sloping 600-800-meter snow slope upwards to the left, towards a small snow patch in the central part of the rocky belt of the North-Eastern ridge. From the slope, ascend 120-150 m straight up, through steep, smooth rocks of medium difficulty with numerous ledges and cracks (pitched protection) to the snow patch.

You can pass it on the left along a 65-meter inner corner turning into a chimney with a steepness of 75–80°. The rocks are very difficult, smoothed, there are few cracks, thin or drilled pitons are necessary. After the inner corner, there follow difficult rocks (60–70 m) of the ridge, leading to the ruined easy rocks of the upper part of a wide couloir descending to the east. The rock wall can be passed on the right (along the route), for which, before reaching the wall, cross to the right a talus slope (50–60 m) with small patches of snow and reach a clearly visible rocky ledge in the form of an inclined slab at the base of the wall. From here, along very difficult smoothed rocks with a steepness of 70–90°,

Ascent Record

No. 63

1. Ascent category - rock climbing
2. Ascent region - Kovkoz, 26
3. Peak, its elevation, and route Suganbashi 4450, northeastern wall, field part.
4. Estimated difficulty category - 5B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain - 950 m average steepness - 65°