Ural M via E ridge, 3B

From the "Ukyu-kosh" hut, follow the trail up the gorge to the "Golubyatnya" FSP shelter, here exit onto the Ukyu glacier, on it, keeping to the right side, ascend (200 m before) to the Ukyu pass, 2 hours (fig. 1). From the glacier, go right onto the "pillow" under the ridge leading from Ural p. to Dumala, ascend the snow-ice slope between rockfall (left) and avalanche debris (right) through a covered crevasse in the slope inflection zone and further along the bergschrund to the E edge of the "pillow". Cross the bergschrund, and then ascend 150 m up the ice-snow slope with a steepness of 50 to 30° along the rocky counterfort of the last gendarme onto the ridge, using ice screws for belay. Follow the snowy ridge with rock outcrops to the saddle under the summit tower. From the boundary of the snowy ridge with rocks, go left 5–6 m along the slabs and up 15 m along the sheer inner corner (belay via rock screws) to a ledge with a выступ. From here, ascend 40 m up the rocky couloir (attention: fragile rocks, possible snow) to the gap in the summit ridge and left — to the summit cairn. From the glacier 4–5 hours. Descent follows the ascent route, from the ledge to the saddle — "Dülfer" on a doubled 40-meter rope. To the meadow 2.5–3 hours. Hazardous areas:

• on the "pillow" — covered crevasses;
• on the summit tower — fragile rocks;
• on the snow-ice slope of the E ridge (when descending) — wet snow, avalanche danger. Special equipment:

1. Climbing category: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus: 2.6: Sugansky Ridge
3. Peak, route: traverse of Agibalova peaks (West-East towers) – Akritov.
4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3A rock: semi-independent
5. Route characteristics: height difference — about 900 m, route length — 1050 m, section lengths: 4th category of difficulty — 25 m, 3rd category of difficulty — 210 m, 2nd category of difficulty — 150 m, average steepness of the main part of the route — 65°
6. Equipment used: pitons — 4 pcs., chocks — 12 pcs., "friends" — 2 pcs.
7. Number of walking hours (days): 10/1

Donpakh 1000 Nnd

combined, 2B cat. dif. 10 drainevo From the "Nakhashbita" clearing to the northwest, traversing the southern scree and grassy slopes of the Nakhashbita and Donpakh massifs, exit to the Donpakh glacier. Time — 1–1.5 hours. When moving along the moraines, beware of possible rockfalls from the slopes of the Donpakh massif. From the Donpakh glacier, to the right along the ascent to the east along a small glacier, flowing down from the slopes of the South and Main Donpakh (photo 29). The glacier with a steepness of 20–30° is uncomplicated, it leads through a small ridge into a wide scree couloir with separate sections of rocks and snow. The couloir begins at a small saddle between the Donpakh South peak to the north and two "gendarmes" to the south, sometimes referred to as

34. Doppakh Eastern — Western (A. Zyuzin's combined route, 5A cat. dif.).

The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow or the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, not far from the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier (4-8 people group), to the summit of Eastern Doppakh is described in routes 31, 32. From Eastern Doppakh, descend in the direction of Central Doppakh along a 40-meter steep rocky ridge to a small saddle with a summit tower. From it, make a 30 m rappel to the left, then along a ledge on the left side of the tower, exit to the western ridge of the summit. Further, along rocks of medium difficulty, ascend 30 m along the ridge to the Black Gendarme. From it, make a 25 m rappel along steep, destroyed rocks to the ridge. From here, along simple, destroyed rocks of the ridge, passing a saddle, ascend to the Flat Gendarme. From the Gendarme, descend to an ice-snow saddle. From the saddle, along a simple 40-50-meter ice-snow ridge with sections of rocks, ascend to the Central Gendarme (Doppakh-3). From Central Gendarme, descend along the ridge or ledges on its right side to the inclined northward Gendarme Tower. From under the Tower, make a 25 m rappel to the left. Bypassing the Gendarme, ascend to the saddle of the ridge. Further, along a steep, complex ridge, ascend to the Gendarme Kupol. From Kupol, descend along the ice-snow ridge to a snow plateau. Set up a bivouac on the plateau. From Eastern Doppakh, 6-8 hours. Along the plateau, bypass the large Pre-summit Gendarme from the right and, overcoming the bergschrund, ascend 80 m along a steep ice-snow slope to the rocky base of Central Doppakh. Along difficult rocks of a 50-60-meter wall, ascend to the sharp ridge of the summit and along it, exit to Central Doppakh. From the plateau, 2-3 hours.

Report

On the ascent (second ascent) to the summit of Meshchena Western via the southern wall and southwestern ridge, presumed to be category 4A, by the MAC "Freeline" mountaineering team from November 16, 2019, to November 17, 2019.

I. Ascent Report

54. Rtsy­vash­ki — G­yul'­chi (combined route by I. Leonov, category 4B, fig. 14). From the tourist center lodge under the slopes of the North-Eastern ridge of the Nameless peak, on a wide grassy clearing in the Kara­su valley, on the right bank of the Dykh­su river, at the entrance to the canyon of the same name (group of 4-8 people), descend along the trail to the Kara­su river and cross it via the bridge. From the river, ascend along the grassy slopes, then along the scree and simple, destroyed, partly steep rocks to the 1st gendarme of the South-Western ridge of Rtsy­vash­ki peak. Further along the long, destroyed, simple and moderately difficult, partly snowy (possible cornices) rocky South-Western ridge with short sections of above average difficulty, overcoming gendarmes head-on or bypassing them, approach the Big Gendarme. From here, along the snowy steep rocks of moderate and above

59. Sugan Maly — Uzlovoy (V. Popov's combined route, cat. 5A, fig. 11). The path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river (group of 4–8 people) to the initial bivouac on the scree of the wide snow plateau of the Sugan ridge saddle between the peaks Suganbashi on the left and Maly Sugan on the right is described in route 35. From the base camp — 8–10 hours. The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade to the initial bivouac via the Doppakh pass takes:

• 1–2 days (see routes 17, 22, 26, 28). From the bivouac, along the snow plateau, bypassing the Southeast ridge of the Central Sugan peak on the right, approach the snowy slope of the wide couloir descending from the upper part of the Southeast ridge of the massif to the plateau. Overcoming the bergschrund, perform a 200 m ascent, sticking to the rocks, along the steep ice-snow slope (running belay). Then:
• ascend 40 m along the wet slabs (running belay) to the Southeast ridge of Maly Sugan;
• turn right;
• ascend 160 m along the heavily destroyed rocks of the ridge with numerous gendarmes;

58. Sugan Uzlovoy — Maly (Sugaev's combined route, category 5A, fig. 2, 11). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Uzlovoy Sugan is described in route 39. From the summit:

• descend 60–80 m down simple snow-covered rocks of the steep, narrow southeastern ridge (insurance);
• then along a snowy 30-meter col (cornice) approach the base of the summit tower of Central Sugan;
• from the col, ascend a 9–10-meter slab with few handholds;
• traverse right-up the slope to the ridge, and ascend the ridge to a shoulder;
• from the shoulder, descend 5–6 m;