2

Teams

SACS “BAKA–Dugoba 2012” on the ascent route to Mt. SAGU via the icy slope of the northern wall of the northwestern ridge "3B", (K)

Leader

Temerev I.M.

Participants

Timofeev D.I., Matveev S.V., Voronezhceva O.A., Alabugin I.V., Tyshkylova N.P., Selezneva S.V., Mukhametzhanov B.M.

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir-Alay, region 5.1.1. Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koyсу, Archakanysh rivers basin (north of the Alay range).
2. Mt. SAGU, icy slope of the Northern wall of the northwestern ridge.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: technical
2. Ascent region: Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge
3. Ascent route: Peak Uzbekistan 5140 m (via the ice board of the northern wall)
4. Route characteristics height difference: 1050 m, average steepness: 65°, most challenging sections: 90°
5. Length of sections: III cat. diff. — 420 m, IV cat. diff. — 160 m V cat. diff. — 535 m, VI cat. diff. — 120 m
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Certificate

1. Technical category.
2. Pamir-Alay, Alay Ridge, Dugoba river basin.
3. Peak "Uzbekistan", 5100 m, category 5B via North wall, V. Rassokha, 76.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Route elevation gain: 900 m (by altimeter); route length — 1270 m; length of category V sections — 60 m; category VI sections — 20 m; average steepness:

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay, Alay ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Shait, 4916 m, via N.N.E. wall by Ovcharov's path.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m; average steepness — 65°; length of sections: 1st diff. cat. — 40 m, 3rd-4th diff. cat. — 510 m, 5th diff. cat. — 400 m, 6th diff. cat./technical — 50 m.
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: rock — 19; ice — 5;

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area — Alai Range, Ulitor gorge
3. Peak — Bezymyanaya (4482 m), Central counterfort of the North-West wall, combined
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference from the bergschrund — 790 m, average steepness — 60°, route length — 950 m, length of sections with 5th category of difficulty — 410 m.
6. Pitons driven: rock cams ice screws | 43 | 20 | 8 | | :-: | :-: | :-: |

I. Climbing category — technical 2. Climbing region — Pamir-Alai, Kollektor Range 3. Peak — Georgievskaya (provisional name), height 4500 m, North Ridge 4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B 5. Route description — combined, height difference 500 m: section of 5th category difficulty — 40 m, average steepness — 45° 6. Pitons hammered: rock — 0 ice — 15, bolt — 0, placement elements — 7 7. Number of walking hours: approach from DSE "Dugoba" to the route — 8 hours, route completed in 7 walking hours, descent from the summit via Chuteva - Pigou pass and return to DSE "Dugoba" — 8 hours 8. There were no overnight stays on the route.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — technical.
2. Ascent area — Alaysky ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: p. 5027 (p. Commune) via the south-eastern ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: combined elevation gain, 1000 m; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty grade — 30 m; average steepness — 45°.
6. Pitons driven: for belaying, for creating artificial holds on:
   • rock — 7;
   • ice — 3;
   • bolted — none.

Description of the First Ascent to the Peak

of Jaan Kreuks (4634 m) via Route 4B cat. diff.

(Eastern Ridge) on July 20–21, 1977

1. The approach from the base camp (helicopter pad at the mouth of the Kemisdykty River) to the Allaudin Glacier takes 3.5 hours. Crossing the glacier (open by the end of July) and ascending the right slope of the glacier's flank—the foot of Jaan Kreuks Peak—takes 1.5 hours. It is advisable to stop for the night here to start the route early in the morning. In the evening, rocks occasionally fall from the couloir to the right of the route.
2. Start the route no later than 7:00 AM. Overcoming the R1–R2 section does not require special techniques, but traversing the ice slope towards the steep rocky buttress as you approach the bergschrund requires crampons (one pair per rope team) and ice screws. Exiting the bergschrund is challenging and requires step-cutting with piton belay. This is crucial as climbers in a team of two were carrying backpacks. Almost immediately after exiting the bergschrund, continue traversing the slope with a 60–70 % gradient, cutting steps in a closed stance with the left hand. The second climber in the team monitors the slope.
3. Section R3–R4. The ascent onto the steep buttress is challenging. Caution is required due to steep, inclined slabs with unstable holds. Pitons are used—vertical, horizontal, and channel-type. There is a small platform for organizing a belay and pulling up backpacks. The direction is upwards and to the left.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — technical
2. Ascent area, ridge — Pamir-Alai, southern spurs of the Alai ridge, Levin's glacier
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: 50 years of Uzbekistan, via the SE ridge, 4891 m
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1300 m, length of sections of category V difficulty — 430 m, average steepness — 40°
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 49, ice — 3, bolted — none
7. Number of climbing hours — 11.5
8. Number of nights on the route: the route was completed without overnight stays, there are places on the route for organizing semi-reclined overnight stays
9. Full name of participants, their qualification:

Description of the Ascent Route to Yan Fabricius Peak via the North Face, Category 5B (Second Ascent)

The approach is from Kozhdeba meadow along the trail on the right (in the direction of travel) bank of the Kok-Su River to the Alaudin River tributary, taking 8–10 hours. Along the Alaudin River, without crossing it, ascend via the right (in the direction of travel) moraine (good trails are available). Climb onto the glacier opposite Yan Fabricius Peak and cross the Alaudin Glacier perpendicularly towards the characteristic rhomboid buttress of the North Face. Ascend to the crest of the rhomboid bastion via the right part of its North Face. Exit to the wall through the bergschrund via a snow bridge. It is recommended to exit onto the rocks in the lower part of the rock wall, as bypassing the bastion on the right and left via ice couloirs is extremely hazardous due to falling rocks and ice fragments. Climbing the north face of the "diamond" is challenging, with piton protection, and in some places, the use of artificial holds. Preliminary processing of the route's beginning with overnight stays on the moraine is recommended. During the ascent, the following are used:

• small ledges for one person;
• long vertical cracks;
• narrow chimneys. The rocks are solid, with sufficient cracks for driving in pitons and using chocks. The direction of movement up the "diamond" wall is upwards, exiting onto the ridge at the upper part of the bastion. Along the bastion's ridge, bypassing giant monolithic blocks, exit onto the crest of the "diamond". The crest has good overnight stay locations, with snow available, and it's possible to level out a tent site.